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  #1  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:02 AM
Angryjosh1999 Angryjosh1999 is offline
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Exclamation 4x4 problem/ Front Diff

Ok so when I bought my Ranger I went in knowing that the 4x4 didn't work and the previous owner told me that it had something to do with the front differential being shot. So knowing this I still bought the vehicle and now I have had a chance to put it up on a lift and know for sure that the front diff is shot (I did some tests like spinning the front drive shaft and seeing it the tires moved and I also tried spinning a tire on one side and seeing it the other tire move) So my question is would I be better off just getting the diff from a local salvage yard or should I put a new diff in. Also do they make ratcheting lockers for the ford ranger?
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1998 Ford Ranger XLT, 3.0 V6, 4 speed manual with overdrive, 4x4, 33" BFG AT's, Custom Rims (not to sure of the brand they came with the truck), Glasspack Exhaust 3.5", 3" lift
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:05 AM
Ranger Danger 1998 Ranger Danger 1998 is offline
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Default Re: 4x4 problem/ Front Diff

Are you for sure its the diff an not a hub. I see you have a 1998. They have PVH. Not known for there durability. I would check for vacuum leaks and see if the hubs are engaging.
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1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 auto 4r44e 4x4 XLT Off-road package 4.10 open extended cab pioneer head unit. 12" Crossfire sub with Alpine amp. 16x8 DC2 Rims -12 offset. Gibson dual catback exhaust. Engine swapped from 2005 Taurus with 140K
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:14 AM
Rangerdaddy Rangerdaddy is offline
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I would lean more towards the hubs to be completely honest. If the diff is shot, you'd be hearing bad noises when you spin the driveshaft. If you spin the drive shaft, do the Cv axles spin?

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And yes Aussie offers a locker for the front diff. Check out www.torqmasters.com. I just got mine this week and going to be doin the install in a week!
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99 xlt, 5.0, torsion bars cranked, 4" body lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, 15x10 American racing 5 spoke rims, 2004 ranger edge seats, buggman LEDs in dash, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 with discs and mini spool in rear, blue led underglow.
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:35 AM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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If it is the front hubs I would suggest tossing the pvh junk and installing some rugged ridge or mile marker manual front hubs
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2016, 10:50 AM
Angryjosh1999 Angryjosh1999 is offline
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Default Re: 4x4 problem/ Front Diff

When I rotate the front Drive shaft nothing is spinning. Also yesterday I did try engaging my 4x4 and heard a click like the hubs were engaging. Also from the receipt in the truck it shows that the CV axles were recently replaced.
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1998 Ford Ranger XLT, 3.0 V6, 4 speed manual with overdrive, 4x4, 33" BFG AT's, Custom Rims (not to sure of the brand they came with the truck), Glasspack Exhaust 3.5", 3" lift
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2016, 11:37 AM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angryjosh1999 View Post
When I rotate the front Drive shaft nothing is spinning. Also yesterday I did try engaging my 4x4 and heard a click like the hubs were engaging. Also from the receipt in the truck it shows that the CV axles were recently replaced.
The click may have been the 4x4 relay. My 2006 makes a click sound when it engages but I have shift on the fly
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2016, 07:39 AM
Jimmyspy Jimmyspy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angryjosh1999 View Post
When I rotate the front Drive shaft nothing is spinning. Also yesterday I did try engaging my 4x4 and heard a click like the hubs were engaging. Also from the receipt in the truck it shows that the CV axles were recently replaced.
Just because the CVs were replaced doesn't mean the hubs are new or good.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
The click may have been the 4x4 relay. My 2006 makes a click sound when it engages but I have shift on the fly
X2

Should be a "click" sound from behind the dash from the 4wd relay.
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  #8  
Old 03-26-2016, 08:01 AM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Main things to check
Hubs- jack the front end up and turn the key on engine on, put into 4x4 high try turning each front wheel and see if the CV axle, and front driveshaft spins. The front is an open diff so both wheels will NOT turn if you spin one. If it's in 4x4 high with the engine on (should be supplying vacuum to the front hubs) and the front drive line is not spinning other then the wheel, the hubs are bad/defective.
Transfer case shift motor- if you've done the first thing I listed and the vehicle is in 4x4 high and just the wheel spins independently from the CV axle etc, the shift motor is not engaging the transfer case.
Checkout those 2 things and keep us posted. Any questions PM me or reply on here.
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2016, 03:43 PM
Angryjosh1999 Angryjosh1999 is offline
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Default Re: 4x4 problem/ Front Diff

Yeah Ill keep you guys updated. I'm going to get it up on a lift on Wednesday or Thursday so it might be a while. And even if its just the hubs I'm considering that Aussie Locker because I feel like it will be more reliable, last longer, and then I wouldn't have to worry about hubs. Also if I went with the locker is there any kind of stuff I would have to do aside from just swapping the diff?
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1998 Ford Ranger XLT, 3.0 V6, 4 speed manual with overdrive, 4x4, 33" BFG AT's, Custom Rims (not to sure of the brand they came with the truck), Glasspack Exhaust 3.5", 3" lift
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2016, 05:28 PM
Rangerdaddy Rangerdaddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
Main things to check Hubs- jack the front end up and turn the key on engine on, put into 4x4 high try turning each front wheel and see if the CV axle, and front driveshaft spins. The front is an open diff so both wheels will NOT turn if you spin one. If it's in 4x4 high with the engine on (should be supplying vacuum to the front hubs) and the front drive line is not spinning other then the wheel, the hubs are bad/defective. Transfer case shift motor- if you've done the first thing I listed and the vehicle is in 4x4 high and just the wheel spins independently from the CV axle etc, the shift motor is not engaging the transfer case. Checkout those 2 things and keep us posted. Any questions PM me or reply on here.
that is wrong. With an open diff if you spin one the other will spin backwards as long as there isn't a load on the opposite wheel.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerdaddy View Post
that is wrong. With an open diff if you spin one the other will spin backwards as long as there isn't a load on the opposite wheel.
and the hubs do not get vacuum all the time, hence the "pulse" in pulse vacuum hubs. They get a pulse of vacuum to compress the spring and lock the Hub same happens when you switch into 2wd, pulse to compress the springs and unlock the hub.
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99 xlt, 5.0, torsion bars cranked, 4" body lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, 15x10 American racing 5 spoke rims, 2004 ranger edge seats, buggman LEDs in dash, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 with discs and mini spool in rear, blue led underglow.
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  #11  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:42 PM
Rangerdaddy Rangerdaddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angryjosh1999 View Post
Yeah Ill keep you guys updated. I'm going to get it up on a lift on Wednesday or Thursday so it might be a while. And even if its just the hubs I'm considering that Aussie Locker because I feel like it will be more reliable, last longer, and then I wouldn't have to worry about hubs. Also if I went with the locker is there any kind of stuff I would have to do aside from just swapping the diff?
to install the locker you have to drop the entire diff out, pull the carrier, remove the ring gear and then the guts of the carrier and install the Aussie. Now, Installing it DOES NOT make it more reliable.. If anything, it can make things worse if not driven correctly.... Your weak points really become the Cv axles and after that is the actual diff housing itself. Not to talk you out of it, but know it doesn't make anything more reliable. Installing the Aussie does not take away your hub. problem... Lockouts or live axle setup from an 01+ ranger/explorer will take care of your hub problem.. I personally tried the lockouts and was not a fan, I have taken them off and cleaned them multiple times and regreased will many different types of grease all would not work and they were a pain to lock and unlock... That's why I went to the live axle setup.
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99 xlt, 5.0, torsion bars cranked, 4" body lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, 15x10 American racing 5 spoke rims, 2004 ranger edge seats, buggman LEDs in dash, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 with discs and mini spool in rear, blue led underglow.
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2016, 07:51 PM
dangerranger01NJ dangerranger01NJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerdaddy View Post
that is wrong. With an open diff if you spin one the other will spin backwards as long as there isn't a load on the opposite wheel.

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and the hubs do not get vacuum all the time, hence the "pulse" in pulse vacuum hubs. They get a pulse of vacuum to compress the spring and lock the Hub same happens when you switch into 2wd, pulse to compress the springs and unlock the hub.
Lol you got me there. I forgot about that haha. Been a hell of a week
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2006 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road
maxed out torsion keys, Add a Leaf, 3" higher then stock, LT265/75R16 BF Goodrich all terrain KO2s on 16x8 Black Rock 997 Type 8 Wheels, 15% front windows, 5% back windows. Cobra 40 Channel CB and a 3' Firestik II, 3157 Pilot LED backup light bulbs and 2 KC Dayligher 100 Watt lights
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2016, 08:29 PM
Rangerdaddy Rangerdaddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerranger01NJ View Post
Lol you got me there. I forgot about that haha. Been a hell of a week
no worries.
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99 xlt, 5.0, torsion bars cranked, 4" body lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, 15x10 American racing 5 spoke rims, 2004 ranger edge seats, buggman LEDs in dash, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 with discs and mini spool in rear, blue led underglow.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2016, 09:34 AM
Angryjosh1999 Angryjosh1999 is offline
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Default Re: 4x4 problem/ Front Diff

So I'm positive the differential is shot. When I spin the drivers side tire the other tire doesn't even move. Also when I spin the front drive shaft you can only spin it so far before it gets really hard to move. If I went with the locker what all would I need to buy aside from the locker? Also is there any videos or build threads that I could look at to help with the install?
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1998 Ford Ranger XLT, 3.0 V6, 4 speed manual with overdrive, 4x4, 33" BFG AT's, Custom Rims (not to sure of the brand they came with the truck), Glasspack Exhaust 3.5", 3" lift
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2016, 11:45 AM
Rangerdaddy Rangerdaddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angryjosh1999 View Post
So I'm positive the differential is shot. When I spin the drivers side tire the other tire doesn't even move. Also when I spin the front drive shaft you can only spin it so far before it gets really hard to move. If I went with the locker what all would I need to buy aside from the locker? Also is there any videos or build threads that I could look at to help with the install?
if it's binding up, it's hard to tell if it's pinion, ring gear or spiders. Sadly you won't know till you pull the whole diff and crack it open. It's very easy to pull. Did mine last weekend and rebuilt the whole front end, took most of the day, but to get the axle out takes about an hour. The locker is very simple to install, the instructions that come with it are very good. If it's your spiders, then you're good with the locker, is its your ring or pinion then you'll need a new gear set and have to reset backlash and such.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerdaddy View Post
if it's binding up, it's hard to tell if it's pinion, ring gear or spiders. Sadly you won't know till you pull the whole diff and crack it open. It's very easy to pull. Did mine last weekend and rebuilt the whole front end, took most of the day, but to get the axle out takes about an hour. The locker is very simple to install, the instructions that come with it are very good. If it's your spiders, then you're good with the locker, is its your ring or pinion then you'll need a new gear set and have to reset backlash and such.
and I looked forever but there isn't any videos on how to install the locker into our front axle. Just make sure you get the correct one, our Dana 35 isn't he same as jeeps. Check out torqmasters.com, they have the Aussie you need.
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99 xlt, 5.0, torsion bars cranked, 4" body lift, 33" Goodyear Duratracs, 15x10 American racing 5 spoke rims, 2004 ranger edge seats, buggman LEDs in dash, Aussie locker in front, 8.8 with discs and mini spool in rear, blue led underglow.
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