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  #31  
Old 07-04-2014, 05:15 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Well I finally ordered the wire to do the big 4 upgrade. Ended up ordering the Knukonceptz Kolossus Flex 0 Gauge Power Amp Kit. Should have more than enough wire to do the runs correctly and Knukonceptz even says in their product description they include some extra ground wire to upgrade the factory grounds to keep up with the added wire size. Also bought some Knukonceptz OFC 12 gauge speaker wire to redo the connections to my sub hoping that helps out as well.

After looking into the benefits of doing the big 4 upgrades I had noticed one of the fixes it will take care of is amps going into overload protection when the factory wires can't supply the voltage the amps asking for so I'm really interested to see if doing this will solve my problem at least at the louder voltage draws. Other than that I'm guessing the next step would be adding a second battery (deep cycle model) to my setup and doing a 0 gauge run to connect that as well if I plan on expanding beyond the single type x.

The wires wont be here until the end of the week with the holiday weekend (happy 4th everyone ) but once I get the kit I will be sure to get voltage readings before and after the upgrade. Wish me luck.
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #32  
Old 07-04-2014, 06:57 PM
6thumping15's 6thumping15's is offline
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Big 4? You mean big 3? Lol.
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  #33  
Old 07-04-2014, 07:35 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Technically it should be 4, at least that's what my friend that works for a local auto electric store told me. Basically what I got out of it is that you have to run the positive charging post from the alternator to the batteries positive and do the same thing with the alternators ground (alternator ground to battery negative terminal. It's supposed to have a bigger impact on the alternators output and overall ground efficiency on the frame. Did a quick search and this is pretty much exactly what my buddy was explaining with pictures etc. Anyway has anyone else heard of it being 4 instead of 3?


----------

this one gives you a good visual of the way the wire gets run for a typical setup.

__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #34  
Old 07-04-2014, 10:09 PM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

You should really like the knu wire, their new stuff is super flexible.
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  #35  
Old 07-04-2014, 11:21 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Alt is grounded to the block, batt is grounded to the frame, batt pos to alt pos. That is big 3. Block is grounded to the frame physically. Upgraded alternator would be the next logical step, not an extra battery. Batteries store power. The alternator supplies current.
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  #36  
Old 07-06-2014, 06:44 PM
6thumping15's 6thumping15's is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
Alt is grounded to the block, batt is grounded to the frame, batt pos to alt pos. That is big 3. Block is grounded to the frame physically. Upgraded alternator would be the next logical step, not an extra battery. Batteries store power. The alternator supplies current.
Thank you for being on the alt team! Can have all the battery's in the world but if you don't have the amperage to charge them they are useless!

My normal procedure for doing the Big 3 is as follows

Battery + to alt charging post

Alt case to frame

Battery - to same frame ground as alt.

On frame, use wire brush to strip paint to metal. Drill hole, use self taping BOLT not little screw. And then paint black to prevent rust.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg image-4192801765.jpg (63.2 KB, 15 views)
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  #37  
Old 07-09-2014, 12:45 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Thanks for the clarification and the pictures 6thumping15's. I do understand the importance of the alternator and having that up to par was my first priority when I first installed my type x. My factory alternator was only around 80-90 amps so I upgraded that to the 130amp I have now. After researching the big 3 more I am now realizing that my stereo was unable to make use of the extra amp alt b/c of the limitation coming from the factory electrical wires. With all of that said the 0 gauge knu wires came in last night followed by the ring terminals today so I will be doing the upgrade hopefully this afternoon.

I have seen a couple of posts for doing the upgrades on the ranger and still am confused as to where the ground locations are. The current ground coming off of my negative battery terminal is only 6 or so inches away from the bolt that connects it to the body of my truck. When I go to redo these connections with the 0 gauge wire should I bypass that ground spot altogether and go from the negative battery terminal to the frame that's located lower in my engine compartment? I'm just having a hard time trying to figure out where the best ground spot would be in comparison to my 1999 model ranger as I want the best possible results.

Other than that my wire runs are going to be...
battery positive to alternator positive (with a 300amp fuse between the two)
alternator case (bolt that holds the alternator in place) to vehicle frame
battery negative to frame (same spot as alternator case run)

to keep the upgrade as straight forward as possible I planned on just adding the 0 gauge wire and keeping the factory wires alone (to prevent possible problems with the factory fuses and whatnot)

Am I going at this correctly?
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #38  
Old 07-09-2014, 12:52 PM
6thumping15's 6thumping15's is offline
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You can leave factory wires as long as you fuse new positive. Go directly from battery - to truck frame. Will probably have to drill new hole and bolt ground in
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  #39  
Old 07-09-2014, 05:00 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Awesome thanks for the quick response. Spent the night doing the upgrade and as far as I can tell everything's fine and working like it should. I started the install later than I would have liked and finished around 1 am. Being it's this late local time for me anyway an update on my sound system will have to wait until tomorrow after I get off work. I did do a quick dc DMM check to make sure the alt was charging my battery and the voltage was sitting around 14.5 so at least I know I did the wires correctly. I will upload pictures tomorrow of the install and give an update on my sound output once I get everything hooked back up. Have a good night everyone
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2

Last edited by Thegrip6589; 07-09-2014 at 11:16 PM. Reason: Update status on installation in progress
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  #40  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:16 AM
6thumping15's 6thumping15's is offline
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Glad you got it done!
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  #41  
Old 07-10-2014, 07:06 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Smile Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Thank you

Unfortunately today I had a family emergency I had to take care of so I still haven't gotten the chance to hook the amp and sub back up and see if there's a difference.

On a more positive note one of my buddies gave me his power acoustic p3-12w dual 2 ohm sub (1000 watt rms, 2600 peak) and a sealed box that went with it. (new box is 1.55 cubic ft inside so that should be an upgrade by itself getting my type x closer to the recommended enclosure specs) Not sure how hooking up a DVC 2 ohm sub would pair up with a DVC 4 ohm sub from the same amp so Im not even going to bother with that at the moment, just going to wire the type x into the new box and get it ready to reinstall tomorrow.

Going to update with pics of my big 3 install. I have a feeling the spot I attached the grounds to the body will need moved to get the most of the install. Hopefully from the pictures some of you guys can offer insight on where I should re run to. (I left a few feet on both ground wires and tucked them away anticipating them being moved, started getting tired and needed my truck to get to work that morning so needed to get everything back together and functional. Every spot that has a wire connection was sanded to bare metal with my wire brush drill attachment so contacts are good the whole way around.

Will update as soon as I figure out how to get everything uploaded and displaying out properly.

**UPDATE**
Not sure how to add pictures directly to this post so Im just going to post the link to the album I created on here that contains all the pics.
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...wire-runs.html
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2

Last edited by Thegrip6589; 07-10-2014 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Added link to photo album
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  #42  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:37 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Thumbs up Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Just wanted to give everyone an update on my system in case someone stumbles upon this post in the future. The big 3 was successful and went very well and I am happy that I got that done as I have been meaning to tackle that for quite a while. After noticing no difference whatsoever in my subs output I had just went ahead and gave up on my current setup altogether. This time around I am doing the proper research and going for an spl with sq emphasis build.

I was so disappointed with how my sub sounded that I just went ahead and ripped everything in my back out except the wire. This by itself has motivated me to do my homework and look into as much as possible to make my new build exactly how I want it.
I was looking into how people modified their mmats amps to make them 1 ohm stable and tried to take it apart a few hours ago and that's when the problem finally came to light and everything made sense.

GLH you had mentioned another member posting about a problem with the internal fusing in the mmats amp and I honestly more or less dismissed it as the amp was not showing signs of problems at least when I had used the dmm. I should have went ahead and took it apart that night...

I am still trying to figure out how to remove the speaker terminal connectors on the amp so I can remove the cover and get a good look at the board but when I lifted the corner of the opposite side a large capacitor fell right out of the amp altogether. At least that's what the part looks like anyway, I've read people complaining of mosfets coming off on the mmats stuff as well.

Having spent a good bit of free time at work looking up and putting together system ideas online I am going to go ahead and start over and do everything right this time around.

I would like to thank all of you guys buggman, markous, 6thumping15's, and GLH for all of your continued help. I plan on making a new thread once I get a few concept systems picked out online. If any of you guys see it and wouldn't mind checking it out I would really like your input. There are so many brands anymore that knowing who does what good and what company offers the best piece for the tier. Looking forward to that part. Until then take care everyone
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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