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  #16  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:11 AM
Markous Markous is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Quote:
Originally Posted by GLH View Post
Alpine recommends a sealed box be 1.0 cu. ft. net and a ported box be 1.8 cu. ft. net with a slot port of 12" x 1" x 24".
1ft cubed gross it will F3 at 36hz with a Qtc of 0.94, as far as the little bit i know about those Thiel/Small parameter numbers that sounds like it would make for a pretty good SQ combination. Wouldn't get as loud but it would be pretty faithful in reproducing the low freq's.

I used a 1.5" wide port in the design i posted above, as a 12:1 height to width ratio will no doubt generate some port noise if you consider an eighth of an inch "skin" of air creating high fiction on the surfaces of the port walls.

The rest is pretty much the same.
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  #17  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:46 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Hard to imagine it wouldn't be loud enough with 1000 watts RMS in a sealed enclosure downfired in a small Ranger cab. I have a sealed 10" shallow sub getting 150 watts RMS that is too loud for me sometimes on some Lenny Kravitz and Michael Jackson songs. Why does it need to be so loud ? It is bound to overwhelm the full range. Who needs that ?
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  #18  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:02 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Sorry for just now responding to this thread, had a bunch of stuff come up sunday and didn't get around to rewiring my sub until late last night. Go figure right before I could turn it all back on and test the subs output and retune everything my battery post terminal snapped in half when I tried to attach it back to the battery. I did pick up a new one from advanced today so I will be jumping on getting everything set back up and post the results when I get off work today. Turned out the terminal connectors on my current box were bad and were not providing a good connection from the sub to the outside of the box. Hopefully that at least solves the amp going into protection mode when I try to regain to the proper 44 volts this time around. Thanks again for all the continued advice.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2014, 12:43 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Be sure there is no bass boost turned on in the headunit or on the amp. That would cause the output to clip before 44 volts AC. You set the DMM on 250 volts AC, right ?
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  #20  
Old 07-01-2014, 07:10 AM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

The DMM was set to 250 volts AC and the headunit did not have any eq/bass boost/loudness/volume adjustments etc turned on. I did have the subwoofer output volume set to max which is volume level 8 on my headunit. I did bring my sub into work today to get it rewired when I have some downtime today so hopefully I can have new readings for later this afternoon. I think the loose connection from the box to the sub was causing the amp to go into its protection mode but I could be wrong. Ill will let you know the results when I get a chance to mess around with it.

As for why I like my music so loud I can't really give a clear answer on that other than I like when the bass is loud enough to rattle the inside of my chest. I have another amp that is dedicated to running 4 door speakers and 2 tweeters so the mid and high range is not something I am drowning out by any means. I guess I am just a typical bass head when it comes to the low end sound spectrum.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #21  
Old 07-01-2014, 09:54 AM
GLH GLH is offline
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Do you have component speakers in front and coaxials in back ?
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  #22  
Old 07-02-2014, 11:19 AM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Sorry for the lack of info on the door speakers but I am not 100% sure on what the setup is with them. I had purchased the truck with the upgraded speakers and as for brands and everything I do not know them off the top of my head. When I get a chance I will pull the door panels off to check into the models if needed. If I had to take a guess I would say they are all components as the tweeters are actually installed separately towards the handle to open the door and are not attached to the speakers itself like most coaxial speakers are.

Also to add to the rewire of the sub and setting the gains with the DMM everything went smoothly this time around. The amp did not enter protection mode this time and I can narrow down that it was the terminals on the box causing the problem as the voltage readouts are now sitting at 43 volts without any clipping from the sub.

As far as upgrading the box goes I had read from a couple of different people on different forums that the type x works fine in the recommended enclosures as well as larger than recommended. With that said is this a project that I should bother taking up? I understand that changing boxes with help my sub perform at its best but will the subs best be comparable to systems on youtube where the vehicles start to vibrate the actual body of their car? I just don't want to dump money into a sub that will never perform how I want it to when I could be looking into a newer setup that could do this.

Sorry for being a pain here I just don't want everyone wasting more of their time focusing on a box if the end result wont actually be that significant for what I am trying to accomplish with my system.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #23  
Old 07-02-2014, 01:41 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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You should be getting 1000 watts to the sub now unless that mmats amp isn't what it is supposed to be. 150 watts to a 10" vibrates my truck. If your entire cab isn't shaking with that 12" tuned properly, something is bad wrong.
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  #24  
Old 07-02-2014, 05:09 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Exclamation Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

My thoughts exactly. I know its not the amp because I had tried hooking up my 2 kickers and my friends 2 dual 12" subs and the amp had no problems running both sets separately and all 4 together. I have even considered hooking my Kicker subs and Kicker zx300.1 amp back up so that the bass is back to what I have been used to but I'd rather not waste the time and look into more permanent solutions.

I spent some time earlier double checking that all of the wiring was still tight and snug in hopes that something had come loose but everything is fine. Also went ahead and checked the ground my amp/capacitor is connected to with the DMM and the readings from my current ground are as efficient as a straight run from the negative terminal on the battery itself.

I'm thinking that at this point I'm out of options to try that could be from installation error other than trying a different box. I'm going to start looking around on craigslist for anyone local that's selling their subs and see if there are any deals worth checking out. I'm not going to drag this thread out and keep bothering you guys with recommendations being there are a ton of other threads on this forum with the same requests, Ill do my part and start doing my homework haha.

If there's any additional ideas/after thoughts feel free to post them and Ill check into it.

Thank you everyone for taking the time out of your day(s) to help me out. I really do appreciate each and every one of you going out of your way to help me out.

I had mentioned in my introduction thread when I joined the FRF that I am an assistant manager for a Pittsburgh based auto glass company so if anyone reading this happens to need help or advice on anything auto glass for their Ranger shoot me a tell. I have experience in removing and installing every piece of glass on the Rangers (all years) and If I could help you please don't hesitate to ask.
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1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #25  
Old 07-02-2014, 05:52 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Take the POS capacitor out of the loop. Do a Big 3 wiring upgrade.
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  #26  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:19 PM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

Ok I am looking around on amazon for wire to get the big 3 out of the way. With my current system and electrical requirements what wire size should I go with? Pretty much every big 3 thread I have read up on the installer had used 0 gauge wire with the exception of a few that had used 4 gauge. Being I would rather do this upgrade once and forget about it I am leaning more towards the 0/1 gauge.

When it comes down to the short runs that the big 3 calls for is there much difference in OFC installs and CCA? If using CCA has any chance of actually negatively impacting my electrical system then I wont even consider it, just weighing the cost to gain benefits here because I'm almost positive they sell big 3 wire kits with everything included for a decent price compared to buying everything separate. I'm just assuming that CCA is the reason why its cheaper.

And why outright remove the Cap? I could see advising someone against buying one to solve electrical problems like dimming headlights but actually removing one that's already owned and installed? If you could elaborate on that so I can get a better idea of what the cons of having it installed are I could better justify removing it if needed.
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #27  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:50 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

The capacitor could actually be hindering power to the amp. Use insulated OFC 1/0 wire for the Big 3. Be careful, there are cheap brands out there that are not actually true to gauge size. If you could find used welding leads in good shape, that is the best. Someone else on this forum has a mmats amp that was found to not be able to make rated power due to the small fuse size installed in the body of the amp.
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  #28  
Old 07-03-2014, 12:00 AM
buggman buggman is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

+1 on good 1/0 wire, either cca or pure copper.
I got a 50' roll of a cheaper CCA 1/0 wire & it's smaller than my knuconceptz 4ga cca wire.

It will still work where I was gonna upgrade from 8ga to 4ga wire though
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  #29  
Old 07-03-2014, 06:39 AM
Thegrip6589 Thegrip6589 is offline
1999 Ranger 3.0L XLT EXT
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 18
Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

I was actually looking at the knuconceptz wire last night on amazon and it was going for $20 per 5 foot of wire and I imagine that I would need around 15 feet or so to do the install right plus all the other stuff so in the end Its going to cost more than I thought it would to just upgrade wires. Any thoughts on this wire kit?

http://www.amazon.com/Execution-Audio-Complete-Gauge-Wiring/dp/B00EIR8VVG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404394184&sr=8-2&keywords=car+audio+big+3
I watched youtube reviews and one of the reviewers actually compared the wire to the knuconceptz 1/0 and the wire size was exactly the same with the kits wires actually being a little more pliable. For a kit to have everything included and only cost about $60 shipped I was kinda hoping this would work for the upgrade. If the OFC makes that big of a difference though and I will keep shopping around.

I will try removing the capacitor and see if there's any difference in power at the amp. And I will have to look into the mmats amp fuse thread. I was always under the impression that the internal fuse for my amp was a single 300 amp fuse from other threads I've read on it before. Either way I guess taking it apart will be the only way to know for sure. Pretty sure work will be letting out early today so in that case I will start tearing everything down and get an update on what I find out.
__________________
1999 Ford Ranger XLT Ext Cab 4WD
130 Amp Alt | Dual Isolated Battery Setup | Optima Red Top [Primary] | XS Power D3400 [Secondary] | All Wire 1/0 Gauge KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex OFC
Audio Processors: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS H/U | AudioControl Epicenter
Front Doors: 6.5" Alpine SWR-60C (Comps) | Rear Doors: 6x8" Pioneer A Series 3-Way Coaxial
Subs: (2) 12" Alpine Type-Rs (SWR-12D4) [5th Gen] Amps: Alpine MRX-M240 & Orion Cobalt 300.2
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  #30  
Old 07-03-2014, 10:54 PM
GLH GLH is offline
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Default Re: Alpine Type X Sub install underperforming seeking advice for mods or upgrades

The OFC will safely carry more current than the same size CCA.
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