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Old 09-05-2015, 05:10 PM
65Sprint 65Sprint is offline
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Default Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

I am at the point of replacing the intake manifold on my 2003 2.3L to solve an engine roughness issue just off idle, under light load. The problem is documented in this thread: 2003, 2.3L Misfire Under Certain Conditions. Before proceeding, I decided to remove the manifold runner butterfly valves to see what, if any, effect this would have. The short answer is it did not have much of an effect at all which is what member riscorpian has reported in earlier threads. The engine roughness still occurs at specific engine speeds depending on load. The motor may be making less torque below 2000 rpm but I have no way to measure that.

Here is the process I used to remove the butterflies.

1. Remove the manifold from the head. Be sure all of the harness connections are detached from the manifold. Also, there is semi-visible clamp for the EGR tube at the rear, top of the manifold accessible from the driver's side of the engine. The clamp is secured by a bolt with an 8mm head.
20150905_113232.jpg
2. With the manifold on the bench, remove the vacuum actuator. It is secured by three Torx screws.
20150905_113343.jpg
3. Remove the white, plastic lever that connects the actuator to the square runner shaft. When this piece is removed, the end of the runner shaft is visible.
20150905_113621.jpg
20150905_113629.jpg
4. Remove the runner shaft. I just pulled it completely out of the manifold with a pair of pliers.
20150905_113837.jpg
5. Gently remove the butterfly valve carriers from each port with a small screw driver or similar tool.

6. This is the tricky part. Separate the butterfly valves from each carrier, without breaking the carrier if possible. My carriers are pretty brittle and I broke three of the four. This is not critical as the two pieces of a broken carrier will fit back into the manifold fine. The only reason to put them back in the manifold is to properly locate the seals.

7. With the carries reinstalled in the manifold, install new manifold seals (gasket).

8. Reinstall the white, plastic lever and the vacuum actuator.

9. Install the manifold.
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:27 PM
65Sprint 65Sprint is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

Here's a couple of pictures of the butterfly valves removed from the intake.
20150905_114808.jpg
20150905_114824.jpg

I think part of the problem with the intake manifold runner as implemented on the early Duratec Rangers is the butterfly carriers wear where the butterfly valve pivots. This causes the valves to be loose and rattle around in the manifold. It sounds like a loud tick. I am not sure how this affects the way the engine runs but at the least, suspect that loose, leaky butterfly valves defeat the purpose of having them in the first place. Here are some pictures of my worn carriers.

Edit: My suspicion is not original. riscorpian reported that the loud tick is indicative of worn butterfly valves and drew similar conclusions in earlier posts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150905_115008.jpg (85.2 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 20150905_115016.jpg (88.8 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by 65Sprint; 09-08-2015 at 06:18 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-06-2015, 10:06 AM
rick ingram zebb rick ingram zebb is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

wil 2.3 head fit 2.5 motor?
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  #4  
Old 09-06-2015, 02:11 PM
stateranger stateranger is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

Please start your own thread.
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Old 02-14-2021, 11:13 AM
lemmy lemmy is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

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Originally Posted by 65Sprint View Post
Here's a couple of pictures of the butterfly valves removed from the intake.
Attachment 138192
Attachment 138193

I think part of the problem with the intake manifold runner as implemented on the early Duratec Rangers is the butterfly carriers wear where the butterfly valve pivots. This causes the valves to be loose and rattle around in the manifold. It sounds like a loud tick. I am not sure how this affects the way the engine runs but at the least, suspect that loose, leaky butterfly valves defeat the purpose of having them in the first place. Here are some pictures of my worn carriers.

Edit: My suspicion is not original. riscorpian reported that the loud tick is indicative of worn butterfly valves and drew similar conclusions in earlier posts.
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I have the intake manifold off of my 2003 B2300 right now and I am tring to decide what I need to do. In 2012 I replaced the intake manifold because the plug near #1 on the intake manifold had popped out and was causing a lean condition. I the intake manifold recently to replace the valve cover gasket. I removed the rod and flapper assemblies and everything seems to be in good shape so I was just planning to put it all back in. However from videos I have seen, there are typically bushings between #4 and #3 and also between #1 and #2. However mine only had one between #1 and #2.




So I was hoping you could let me know:

1. did yours have the bushings in 2 places or just the one place like mine?

2. It sounds like you just removed the flappers and the rod, but put everything else back in. So the end where the actuator is located is sealed like it always is, and you left the holes (where the rod formerly passed) unsealed between each runner. Is that right? Did you notice any power or fuel mileage issues possibly due to leaving the holes between the runners? I have heard of some people using epoxy to seal those holes, but I'd rather not do that.

Thanks.
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2021, 06:51 PM
65Sprint 65Sprint is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

I don't specifically recall whether the bushings were present in both locations. Did you replace your manifold with an OEM part? I bought a Dorman and wonder if the the less expensive aftermarket manifolds only had bushings between one and two.

I didn't notice any difference in engine power or mileage between the original manifold with loose, leaky butterflies and the original manifold with the butterflies removed. I only drove the truck for a week with the butterfly valves removed before installing a new manifold. Leaving the openings for the rod between runners is probably not ideal. Maybe the reason I didn't notice any difference is because I had leaks between runners with the rod and butterflies installed (with the original manifold).
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Old 02-14-2021, 08:19 PM
lemmy lemmy is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Sprint View Post
I don't specifically recall whether the bushings were present in both locations. Did you replace your manifold with an OEM part? I bought a Dorman and wonder if the the less expensive aftermarket manifolds only had bushings between one and two.

I didn't notice any difference in engine power or mileage between the original manifold with loose, leaky butterflies and the original manifold with the butterflies removed. I only drove the truck for a week with the butterfly valves removed before installing a new manifold. Leaving the openings for the rod between runners is probably not ideal. Maybe the reason I didn't notice any difference is because I had leaks between runners with the rod and butterflies installed (with the original manifold).

I purchased a new manifold in 2012 directly from the local Ford dealer. I'm am surprised that mine only had the one bushing. I'm not really sure what to do. I think it is perfectly fine to remove the flaps, but just not sure what to do about the holes. I'm not sure they make the Dorman manifold anymore. Now I am wondering if I should just get a new manifold.

Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2021, 03:47 PM
lemmy lemmy is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

I thought of a way to plug the holes between the runners. The holes appear to be about 7/16 in diameter. So I was thinking of getting a piece of 7/16 aluminum rod and fitting it in there. Hopefully it is slightly larger and since aluminum is easy to work with, I think it would be possible to take a few thousandths off to make it a snug fit. Then the flapper holders that are re-inserted would prevent any chance of the aluminum rods coming out.
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2021, 09:45 AM
lemmy lemmy is offline
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Default Re: Removing Intake Manifold Runner on Early Duratec

Just a followup to the IMRC delete. I used 7/16 aluminum rod for the holes. It was nearly a perfect fit but on the longer middle one I had to make it about 0.010" smaller (I put it in my drill press and held a file against the side as it turned) to get it to fit. On the other two I had to hammer on the opposing sides to make a section of the rod slightly oval to make it fit. I could have used 1/2" rod and turned that down to 0.445", but I didn't have 1/2" rod and it would have taken more effort to take off over 0.055". I have put the intake back and so far I haven't notice any difference.
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