Quote:
Originally Posted by KarstenM
As of right now, I have a stock suspension 2000 ford Ranger XLT. I was looking into getting a 6in lift kit for my truck. I was wondering if it were at all possible to fit 33x12.5x15 tires on the truck.
Would it be possible with little to no trim?
If it does involve trimming, what suspension lift kit would be best in order to fit the 33x12.5x15 tires?
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My question(s) for you would be why do you want a 6" lift and then only add 33" tires let alone for a inline4 cylinder especially in 2WD? What rear end do you have in it even?
Don't get me wrong I'm not bagging on you but as someone running 33's
with no issues on a 2" lift and 2" Body lift to remove the even SLIGHT rubbing issues I had for a short time.
This is before the 2" Body Lift and the only reason I did that was because at times the huge lugs on the Dynapro MT's would grab the inner fender lips in front of or behind the rear tires and pull them out all weird..
Other than that, a 2" suspension lift with using a urethane leveling kit from Daystar and a set of HD rear spring packs that netted me a 1.75" lift along with going from a 1100lb spring pack to a 1750lb spring pack for load capacity as I generally carry gear (250-300lbs) to go camping at the drop of a hat, anywhere. Not to mention my Flip-Pac is already a 290lb added weight penalty.
If I could make a suggestion, don't do a leveling kit unless its a longer or taller coil for that 2" as the ride is much harsher IMO than it would have been in a coil itself. Some earlier issues were the choice of shocks I chose to use at the time but the aluminum or Urethane leveling kits will stiffen the ride. Hopefully your kidneys will thank me one day...
Right now I am in a transition with the suspension as my needs have changed as well the desires for more articulation, I've found myself new places to get to and in, but that's the easy part. Getting home can be a different chore.
A 6" suspension lift I could see if you were going to throw 35's on or even more impressive, jump to a 37" but to be totally honest tires make the lift, the suspension lift creates room for the tires. If you look at the trucks on here, stick them all on level ground and measured each ones rear differential in comparisons to 31, 32, 33, 35, or even a 37" you will see that they are all the same height off the ground "Clearance wise".
With exception to different tires [i.e. MY Dynapro MT lugs are AT LEAST a 1/2 taller as a mudder tire than other similar MT's], tire pressure or even rim size.
A 31" is a 31" and will net you the same comparable lift within a few MM of each other based upon the aforementioned like variables...
All that extra wheel gap is for not, it just adds to a ridiculously unstable (IMO) and unnecessary higher center of gravity making the vehicle and its owner REALLY have to start to pay attention to those stupid stickers sewn into your visor about how dangerous it is to drive. Ideally you and others now become a risk and it only takes one harsh or over correction to send your truck into a cartwheel or tumble by making an evasive maneuver. It may not even be YOU who drives the truck and makes the driving error, could be the better half or a family member unfamiliar
with the vehicle.
Then we must dive into your rear gear? Your going to be turning a FAR heavier wheel and tire combo. So although on the street, if you had a 3.08 gear your gas mileage will lose at least a 100 miles off the top at least or close to it per tank. a 3.73 will get you your mileage back but then the 4cyl will seem anemic in power. 4.10 or 4.33 better but some would say to get the advantages you want and need 4.56's is the gear you will want or better.
So while I am more or less offering experience and some small facts than telling you what you should do. Use your best judgement.