Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestrel
I am in need of replacing my tires soon, have decided on Firestone Destination AT this go around. Coming from the Cooper AT3, which I admittedly really like, but they never kept a decent balance. I am probably 90% highway and 10% dirt/gravel roads for camp and fishing spots so I think Ill do fine.
However, I truly love the lines of my 2011 reg cab XL, always have - simplicity really appeals to me. I have also always entertained the idea of getting a new wheel, but want the "stock" appearance with an increased in function. My driving style is VERY slow since I try to get best MPG possible, I have upgraded to 235/75/r15 (which actually helped a small amount for MPG).
I have been looking at older Ranger OEM style wheels since the only thing I done love about my truck is the 5 spoke steelies. I am asking to see if anyone has information on a lighterweight wheel, that doesnt have a reputation of breaking badly (alloy, forged, cast, etc.) and if anyone has pics of swapping to some of the older wheels. I really like the Alcoa style, but those seem hard to locate. Maybe this is a:
"Whats your favorite OEM Ranger wheel?"
I have the 2.3L 5-SP 2011 XL, so hopefully the suggestions can fit this model.
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With regards to "increased function" of a stock wheel, you obviously have a fair understanding of limitations, most of which will be in most peoples view width for larger tires. So to raise a couple questions in response to open this to a broader but on topic discussion.
I did catch the part where you are mostly hwy driving. So without getting into semantics of styling too much, i wanted to first address the "increased function" aspects.
If you're planning on staying in the 15" rim size, aesthetics may be the only thing that changes for you if you're staying the stock Nazi course. Aftermarket will however throw a whole plethora of options on top of aesthetics or even material makes.
Steel wheel or aluminum both have pros and cons to which you may already be privy to. Steel wheels offer affordability, strength, and if you have a chunk of wood and a hammer on board can be bent back into place if needed to get you back home so to speak. Problems are slim pickings for styling and weight among stereotypical nuances of smaller aspects such as width.
Aluminum; whether cast, forged, or billet will be lighter while retaining strength too but if you bend one in a chuck hole, its usually done. If you mind your driving that's not likely to happen and I wouldn't use it as the sole reason to just stay true to a steel wheel. The lesser unsprung weight in the corners will tend to allow better acceleration, braking, and handling characteristics as well aid in sheding perhaps what may amount to water weight gain in a diet terms of reducing a couple lbs in weight overall.
You could very well find worthy OEM aluminum wheels either via take-offs, trades, CL, or even purchased new from a couple companies that sell them cheaper than the dealership can or ever would.
The wheel Robert shows is similar to what I have been using to date. Difference is mine came from a 2004-05 AWD Explorer and going from the deer-toe 14x6's on my 93' XLT to the 17" version of Robert's wheel aided in both wider at 17x8.5 and I spend about 60% of my time or more on dirt/spur roads than HWY but I obviously I need both.
NOTE:
With the Plus 3 wheel sizing I did, since I am a lifted vehicle. Lift comes from the increased height of both wheels and tires. for example. for a short time, I had the new 17" wheels and tires that were within 2mm's of exact diameter as the stock 14" wheel and tire combo.
My trucks height of clearance increased because the center of the wheel to the fender lip showed a 1.25" increase. If you measure from the fender lip to the ground you will obviously get a measurement of up/down but the true measurement of is incorrect. You need to measure from the center of the hub tot he fender lip for that. Just added experience and some possibly useless information for you or others. But lift is created with wheels and tires, suspension makes room for that and articulation variables
My point here is if you're needing a wider wheel size to accommodate larger tires or wider ones, to get there in stock trim settings will be to go up in sizes or diameters of wheels. With that tire sizes and choices will keep you in the realms of overall diameter for aesthetics and functionality.
If that wasn't much help or confusing, I hope it at least opened up the conversation for further input either by you (OP) or others assisting a solution for you.