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  #16  
Old 04-07-2012, 02:36 PM
StoneT StoneT is offline
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We used a saws all on the front bolts
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2012, 03:38 PM
appletonbill appletonbill is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

Well now I'm stuck. I can't get the sonofabitchin' bushing in any farther. I greased it and beveled the rim a little but no go. I 'll have to find a puller somewhere to try and push it in. I had a socket that I was using to tap it in but that's as far as she'd go. I tried a C-clamp to but that did not work either.
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Last edited by appletonbill; 04-07-2012 at 04:06 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2012, 04:04 PM
appletonbill appletonbill is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97powerranger View Post
thank you, i think i have finally tracked down or have everything i need. just ticks me off when you call any parts store and ask for a leaf spring bushing they think your crazy. i am still wondering if anyone has some info on the fabs that have to be done to the drivers side front bracket to accomodate the p-brake cable guide, and if the tank has to be dropped.?.?.?.?.?.
Got my bushings at NAPA.

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[quote=StoneT;834102]And do we have to disconnect the shocks

No.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneT View Post
We used a saws all on the front bolts
I was trying to save the bolts because when I bought the kit to do all 4 brackets off the internet from Shock Shack I was missing 2 bushings and 2 bolts.
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2012, 05:09 PM
BILLIBOY BILLIBOY is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

One thing to keep in mind whenever doing any suspension component replacement, if you really want to do it properly, after everything is assembled do not tighten the bolts until you have put weight on the wheels or jack up the component so that it is at the normal ride height and then torque all the fasteners. This keeps the tension neutral on the rubber components when the vehicle is at its usual ride height and should make for longer life of the bushings and a slightly better ride quality. My 2 cents anyway.
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  #20  
Old 04-07-2012, 07:15 PM
94AubergineXLT 94AubergineXLT is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

^^^good advice^^^^
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  #21  
Old 04-07-2012, 09:07 PM
StoneT StoneT is offline
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I called ATS suspension , found them on Internet. Bob will sell the front bushings and the bolts you need, with shipping around 40 dollars. Saved my bracket but cut the bolt off. To get the bushings in, I used a BFH and a 2 by 4 thanks to advice by bob, it wasnt easy and I felt like I was forging metal. A little oil helped get them in, had I thought about it I might have used a little KY on there.
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2012, 08:08 AM
appletonbill appletonbill is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

Got the "easy" side done. I sat down and had a beer and thought up how to make a bushing tool out of an old scissor jack I had laying around.
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2012, 08:10 AM
appletonbill appletonbill is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

Homemade bushing puller/pusher.
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2014, 08:49 PM
Skyhawk Skyhawk is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

I know this thread is old but this is a common problem, especially in the north-east "rust-belt'. Here are a few comments regarding this repair that I hope will be helpful.
Removing the rivets that hold the leaf spring brackets in place; If the bed is off they can be drilled out, but that is not usually the situation. Use a saws-all with a professional grade metal cutting blade and cut the heads of the rivets off. If you cannot remove the bolt that goes through the spring bushing and the bracket then cut the bolt on each side of the bushing before you cut the rivets.
Once the bolt and the rivet heads are cut the bracket should be removed. Now you can cut the rivets flush with the frame and then tap them out of the frame. The bushing can be pushed out of the spring as shown above with a "puller". This is easier if you drill a few holes through the rubber part of the bushing. Once the rubber and center metal part of the bushing are pushed out you can clean out the remaining bits of the outer metal part of the bushing with a chisel or screw driver and finish the job with a 1.5 (front) inch drum sander and 50 grit sanding drum. You sand out the rust from the spring. Use an angle drill as a straight drill will not fit between the frame/spring and the fender. Apply some lubrication to the bushing and tap it into the spring. Bolt the bracket to the spring with a 14 millimeter bolt that is 120 MM long and has a 2.00 thread pitch. You can us a 9/16 bolt if it will fit in the bushing. The bolt must be hardened steel and the nut should be a "lock-nut". The front drivers side has the parking brake cable bracket that the bolt runs through also. The replacement cable bracket, if the one you have is rotted, is an OEM (Ford dealer) item only. I would not recommend burning out the bushing or otherwise heating suspension parts. These parts are made with "tempered" steel and heating them can weaken them. The replacement brackets usually come with replacement bolts and lock nuts. The driver side front bracket usually requires moving the gas tank in order to access the holes with the bolts. I am not sure this is true for all model years so check a reference source for this information as well as for torque recommendations. I usually use a sanding disk to smooth out the frame where the new brackets are going to go. I also use anti seize compound on the bolt that goes through the bushing. Hope this helps.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2014, 09:41 AM
rangersho06 rangersho06 is offline
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After reading some of the posts in this thread. I'm glad I have access to some of the tools I do on the farm. I'm just doing the rear mounts and shackles. Front ones are rusty but not to the point they are weak like the back ones. For the rivets I used an oxy acetelyne torch to head the heads, then used a long barrel air hammer /chisel to cut the heads off. Wasn't sure the bushing that came with the kit was big enough. Didn't quite look like it so for now I left the old one in and put it all together for the moment. Thought I might ask around about the bushings. They came with the shackle kit from Auto Zone. Also when I tightened the nuts for the shackle with my 3/8 impact, when they got tight the shackle wouldn't move any so I backed them off just till they moved. What is the torque specs?
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2014, 12:20 PM
cvar cvar is offline
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Default Re: replacing all 4 leaf spring hangers, please help!!

See torque specs in here: http://imgur.com/a/WpQR8 <== CLICK
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