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  #1  
Old 08-18-2009, 05:34 PM
98 X Cab 98 X Cab is offline
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Question 98 Frontend Squeak killing me

HELP! I've got a 98 extended cab 2wd that squeaks alot in the frontend when you hit a bump or if you turn the wheels. It sounds like its coming from the lower control arm bushing but someone said it could be bad lower ball joints. Any ideas? any help would be great.
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  #2  
Old 08-19-2009, 08:24 AM
vicious vicious is offline
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It's probably the ball joints. Have the same issue on my 95 exploder. The squeak is a huge nuisance. I picked up the new ball joints for like $15 a piece, now I need the tool to press them out and back in.
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Old 08-19-2009, 10:44 AM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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take them to an alignment shop. they can press them in and out for a few bucks, its less expensive then buying a tool you'll only use about once every 100,000 miles.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:50 AM
vicious vicious is offline
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I can use the "loan-a-tool" program at autozone, assuming they ever get it back in. I asked one of the alignment shops what they'd charge (when I found out they were bad) and it was an astronomical labor charge, like $300 or so. I don't know what they were smoking, but I'll do it myself first, then get it aligned afterwards.
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:11 PM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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ouch. i guess that is right on if they have to take the wheel off...etc. but i would take it off my self get a ride to advance auto or an alignment place and press it in there then reinstall yourself.
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:07 PM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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i know my advance auto store has no tools instock at any time. they dont even have 5 quarts of 5w-20 oil. you could also make a balljoint press probably for under $50, but thats another topic
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:54 PM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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i just got my ball joints pressed in for $20 total for both of them at my alignment shop. i would look around at another shop if they charge 300, but my ball joints and control arms were already out of the truck.
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:30 AM
vicious vicious is offline
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I got another estimate from a mechanic the next town over of $150 including the alignment. That's more in line with what I was thinking. Only problem is that he'd backed up for about 2 months. It's not a big deal as I don't drive it much and I'll be heading back to VA to pick up the ranger in a couple weeks, so I'll wait. I was looking at spending $100 for the alignment anyway, and since it'll have to be done might as well do it at a one stop shop.

98 X cab - when I pulled the wheel I could use a prybar to move the balljoints a good bit and they squeaked when I did it, so you could try that to see if it is what's causing your issue. My boots were shot too, so there is no saving them.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2009, 02:53 PM
98 X Cab 98 X Cab is offline
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Thanks for the help guys i found the problem the lower ball joint on the pass side boot is busted.
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2009, 06:13 AM
98blownranger 98blownranger is offline
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you don;t need an alignment, a good idea but not needed unless you do the tierod ends also. new ball joint set it back to factory position. autozone will lone the tools, or buy it for $50 and then you always have it
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  #11  
Old 10-15-2009, 02:32 PM
hondarider94 hondarider94 is offline
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my 98 ranger extended cab does that too
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2009, 02:36 PM
vicious vicious is offline
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I forgot about this. I finally got the press and was done with both sides in a couple of hours. They were nasty!



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  #13  
Old 12-07-2009, 04:59 PM
haunas haunas is offline
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Do any of you guys have any pics of the removal and replace of the ball joints. Also, I was talking to a buddy who knows cars pretty good and he told me I should also look at changing out the tie rods as well since the truck has over 100k and rather do preventative instead of emergency on a trail somewhere. Good idea or ?
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2010, 07:56 PM
seeburg220 seeburg220 is offline
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I had the same thing happen to me at 6am this morning> leaving for work and it sounded like 2 fatties going at it on a rusty mattress

Definitely the left lower ball joint.

Supposed to snow 3" tonight, so I'll be driving it one more day at least before I can repair it.


Is there any tips on lowering the lower control arm? Do I have to unload the torsion bar tension first, or can I put a jack under the control arm and let it slowly down?

Thanks!

Mark


'00 Ranger 4.0L 4 x 4 97k miles
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2010, 01:08 PM
seeburg220 seeburg220 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haunas View Post
Do any of you guys have any pics of the removal and replace of the ball joints. Also, I was talking to a buddy who knows cars pretty good and he told me I should also look at changing out the tie rods as well since the truck has over 100k and rather do preventative instead of emergency on a trail somewhere. Good idea or ?
I'll try and post some pics 2nite.

Here's what I've done so far on my '00 Xtra cab 4x4, 4.0L:
  • got the ball joint press loaner tool from Auto Zone. Advance didn't have one in stock for loan.
  • raised the front of the truck up and put jack stands underneath the swaybar mounts on the frame.
  • removed the sway bar at the lower control arm
  • removed the shock absorber
  • removed brake caliper and disc
  • put a jack underneath of the lower control arm and loaded it.
  • took a balljoint (pickle) fork and busted the lower ball joint loose from the hub assy.
  • removed upper control arm bolt at hub and used fork to remove it from hub.
  • hung a strap on the truck to support the hub and drive axle.
  • removed drive axle (the cv joints were shot)
  • lowered the floor jack so lower control arm is completely unloaded
  • used ball joint to press out the ball joint. this was a pita, as it was an original ball joint. don't forget to remove the c-clip first, or it will never come out.
  • pressed in new lower ball joint. the press was of limited use, as I needed one more attachment to make it work. I got the ball joint started with it, then I took the ball joint adaptor, layed it on my floor jack, and jacked the truck off of the jack stand, so all the weight was on the adaptor and ball joint. Then I simply banged around the top of the ball joint with a hand sledge until the weight of the truck forced the balljoint into the control arm until it was seated. Gravity is a great thing at times!
  • removed upper control arm-to-frame bolts and removed upper control arm. I noticed that the control arm had an "R" stamped underneath of it, although it was on the left side of the truck. It's also said TRW so I think it's a replacement, and maybe the wrong one! The L and R replacement arms look so close, so I don't know why there are different.
  • That's where I am now, getting ready to put the upper arm back in. I'm doing one side at a time so there's no mess ups.
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