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  #1  
Old 11-10-2010, 03:44 PM
drppdyllwrngr drppdyllwrngr is offline
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Default wheel bearing

i've been hearing a small squeal on the driver's front the past few mornings. this morning, couple other things didn't sound/feel right. so tonight, i dug into it. jacked up the truck, grabbed the tire and it rocked back and forth. checked the ball joints, they looked good. so next up was wheel bearings. pulled the caliper, caliper bracket and pull the rotor off. outer looks fine, but here is in the inner.






100k on it. put it in 7 years ago when i first lowered my truck. planning to go ahead and doing both inner and outer on both sides tomorrow night. i understand how to pack the bearing (did it when i lowered it), but i have a couple questions.

do I need to fill the rest of the inside of the rotor with grease as well?

and how do i know the spindle nut is on tight enough? when i took the castle nut and cotter pin out tonight, i was able to spin the spindle nut right off without any tools. almost seemed too loose.

glad i caught it before it got any worse. both races look fine, but if they come with the bearings, i'll go ahead and replace them as well.
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2010, 06:41 PM
angelomm angelomm is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

make sure you clean the spindle as beast as possible....you can use a bearing packer or just put on some gloves and rub the bearings in by hand for about 10 minutes....i always load up the spindle with grease....doesnt hurt anything.....the way i usually adjust the nut is take a 1 1/8 socket..spin the rotor by and and hand tighten the nut...back the nut off...spin the rotor by hand again....than tighten till snug......really hard to explain but you'll feel when it when its good.......they have a torque spec but i only use it when at work...LOL....
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  #3  
Old 11-15-2010, 03:51 PM
mdblitz mdblitz is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

Whoa, those bearings are nasty. I'm surprised you didn't lock up the wheel. Looks like the seal is stuck to the bearing also. I just did the repacking thing last week. Before you grease and reuse any old parts I would make sure they are shiny and clean and smooth.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:09 PM
drppdyllwrngr drppdyllwrngr is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

the grease was holding the seal to the bearing, they came right apart. i replaced both left and right sides, inners and outers. the others looked good, just the one bad one. i need to get a new rotor though. i think the bad bearing wore out the inside of the rotor some, and the race isn't sitting quite right. but that will have to wait for a few weeks.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2010, 05:44 AM
mdblitz mdblitz is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

I usually put a gob of grease on my hand the size of a golfball then press the edge of the backside of the bearing into it until grease oozes out the front working my way around the bearing. You can fill the inside of the rotor with grease so bearings are kinda swimming in it. I had a tricky time not letting rust scale get into it when putting rotor back on the spindle. Driver side lower balljoint boot on my 4x2 looks like it will need attention.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2010, 04:45 AM
johnathan2000ford johnathan2000ford is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

i need to replace my passenger wheel bearing but they only sale the whole hub is there anything i need to know when doing this
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2010, 04:20 AM
mdblitz mdblitz is offline
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Default Re: wheel bearing

Sorry, I only worked on 4x2 and don't know why you need to replace the hub.
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