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  #1  
Old 10-28-2010, 03:04 PM
quadguy quadguy is offline
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Default Leaf spring help

My right leaf spring hanger rust through last week and then fell off. Bought the new hanger then got under there and seen the old hanger was riveted on (wow!, rivets?) I grinded them off and now Im having trouble locating where the new hanger goes so I can bolt it on. The worst of putting the new hanger on is getting the leaf bolt out. I tried gringing the nut off which it came off but still can't get the old bolt out. Any suggestions on how to get it out? WD-40 didnt work......
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1991, V6, 5-spd., 4x4, supercab, SWB, 14 mpg (lots of power and torque), 70w HID long range KC lights, homemade 3/16" front bumper w/ D-rings, Nexen Roadian M/T front & rear tires ($500/set). Dana 35 front [WORK TRUCK]
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2010, 07:30 AM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

I think I had to use a pry bar on mine while cranking the bolt with a ratchet.

As far as the hangar rivets. Drill then out from the other side with a drill bit smaller than the rivit. That will weaken them up enough the you can knock them out with a punch or something. Use a slow drill speed or you will burn up your drill bit in no time due to over heating the bit. Lubricant while drilling will help keep the bit cool and allow it to perfomr better. WD-40, PB Blaster, or anything like that will be fine, though dedicated lube is better.
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2010, 10:48 AM
quadguy quadguy is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

Thanks sandman. Headed out to try that now.
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Old 10-29-2010, 11:08 AM
sgtsandman sgtsandman is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

When I did mine, I left the nub that remained there so I knew where to drill after the braket was off. Water over the dam now but you'll know for next time assuming the other side hasn't been done yet.

You just drill in deep enough to go past the frame and the rivits usually knock pretty easily then.
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2010, 11:20 AM
pooleo pooleo is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

I just replaced all 4 of mine on my plow truck. Both rears had been broken over last winter. Well then the pass. front broke. It made it real easy because I was able to take the leaf pack out and beat the hell out of the center bolts with a BFH. It also made the brackets extremely easy to access, as nothing was in the way now.

On the drivers side the hardest part was getting the center bolts out. On mine I ended up drilling the center bolt until it wouldn't go anymore (seemed to be at the shank of the bolt). I then stuck a hardend head bolt (must've been from my buddies tuner, it was small) and beat the hell out of it with my BFH.

The rivets are actaully really easy to get out, grind them flat, get a center punch and mark center or close to it. Then use a 3/8" drive 3" extension and knock them out, they will be tough the first couple hits, but then you'll see them move. There will be a tiny "ring"

On mine I also built new shackles to get some lift so when I put my weight in for plowing the truck would stay level.

If this is something you have to do or cannot use the upper shackle bolt or whatever, make sure you bolt the shackle to the mount before you attach the shackle mount. You cannot get a wrench on the nut once the mount is on.
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2010, 12:31 PM
quadguy quadguy is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

I got the holes drilled, started to bolt the shackle to the frame then realized I have to get the bolt out of the leaf spring. The holes from the factory shackle did match up with the new shakle mounting holes but it don't look like the leaf spring eyelet is gonna line up with the new shackle. I sure wish I had the old shackle to see if the bolt holes from both shakles match up but the old one is on the road somewhere. I'll have time later this eve to mess with that leaf spring bolt then post my progress. If I had the money, I'd pay the local mechanic to do this. It is a pain.
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1991, V6, 5-spd., 4x4, supercab, SWB, 14 mpg (lots of power and torque), 70w HID long range KC lights, homemade 3/16" front bumper w/ D-rings, Nexen Roadian M/T front & rear tires ($500/set). Dana 35 front [WORK TRUCK]
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  #7  
Old 10-30-2010, 04:36 PM
pooleo pooleo is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

Yes it is. I had to use a combination of jacks to get mine on. But I also have an 8" shackle that I put in.

I used a smaller 2 ton jack and placed it on the spring behind the wheel and against the inside of the box with a chunk of 4x4. This way I could move the spring up/down to wherever the shackle linned up.

I used my 3 ton jack on the hitch to lift the truck as high as I could.

Good luck!
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1999 | Ext. Cab | 4.0 | 4x4 | 4.10's
Quote:
A Gladiator does not fear death. He embraces it. Caresses it. Fucks it. Each time he enters the arena, he slips his c0ck in the mouth of the beast, and prays to thrust home before the jaws snap shut. - Oenomaus
Ball Joints/Upper A-Arms How To
Replace Door pin/bushing
Repair broken dome light tabs
VIDEO OHC Install
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  #8  
Old 10-30-2010, 07:06 PM
quadguy quadguy is offline
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Default Re: Leaf spring help

I used my brothers (2) 6' Hi Lift jacks to lift the rear of the truck then dbl. chocked both front tires in order to get to the leaf spring bolt. I'm 6'6" tall and 265lbs. I tried a 3/4" ratchet and didn't get anywhere so I used my 230 welder and welded (2) 1/4"x1 1/2"x2" x 4' angle rods together to give me a 4' breaker bar. Between the 3/4" ratchet and 4' breaker bar, I got nowhere. Didnt budge the bolt and I really dont wanna buy another whole leaf spring for fear it'll be higher on the passenger side. So I broke down and took it to the local mechanic and he got the bolt out and mounted the shackle and everything in an hour for $90. He said if I hadnt got the old shackle off the frame and leaf spring, He'd had to charge $300. I was ready to weld the leaf spring to the frame as mad as I was. I'm short tempered ne ways and wanted to try and save myself some money. Thanks all!
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