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  #1  
Old 10-14-2010, 11:48 AM
Joe Garfield Joe Garfield is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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Default Sway link replacement questions

Hey guys,
Found a broken sway bar link on my '99 Ranger. I went with the OEM replacement after reading a bunch of horror stories about Polyurethane and thermoplastics.

1) How tight should I make the bolts? Compress the rubber, or just touching the rubber?

2) How do the links come off? One was broken, so a sawzall did the trick. Unbolting the other didn't seem to release anything. Any tricks?

Thanks,
Joe
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:23 AM
BenGone BenGone is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

I just did my sway links. I had to coat the links with WD40 to get the bushings off the rods. Let it soak for about 30 minutes. The rods were swollen too, and I had to cut one or two of the bushings off. Grab them with vice-grips and twist. I also used a Moog replacement set thinking the higher price and well known name mean better quality: wrong. It's been 8,000 miles and the bushings are already toast. I'm pretty sure I over-tightened the nuts though. I think I'm going to go buy an OEM set just for the bushings, but keep the Moog rods, and this time, figure out the torq specs before I put the new parts on. I didn't think it would be a big deal. I was wrong.
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:36 AM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Correction:
two wheel drive
Front stabilizer bar link nuts: 10 - 13 ft-lbs.
Front stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts: (bar to frame) 65 -91 ft-lbs.
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Last edited by mickblock; 10-16-2010 at 10:56 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:37 AM
BenGone BenGone is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Chilton has the 4x2 front suspension for 95 to 99 Explorer and 98 to 99 Ranger stabilizer end link to lower control arm nuts at 10-13 ft. lbs. (and stabilizer bar to frame retainer bolts at 65-91 ft. lbs).
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:53 AM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Thanks Ben. He's got a '99 and I didn't bother to look at the details. Again.
Big difference.
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:11 AM
Joe Garfield Joe Garfield is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. I just moved 1/2 way across the country and can't seem to find my Haynes manual, so this was helpful.

I was originally talked into buying the MOOG parts at Advance Auto - they took the time to show me the difference between the two and say how much better the Moog bushings are. I bought them against my instinct, which said not to get them as I saw a 1-star review on their website. When I got home, I googled Moog bushing problems and found numerous reports of the thermoplastic bushings disintegrating.

The OEM and the Moog parts seem nearly identical except for the blue thermoplastic bushings replacing the regular black rubber bushings.

Based on the 10-13lb torque spec, I'd assume both types of the bushings are the same. The Moog instructions said tighten just to where the washers make contact with the bushings, and not to compress them.

I will lube up the remaining bushings/link and hopefully get to it this week. Truck feels pretty good, have a feeling it will feel really smooth with the complete set.

Thanks again, this forum is great and I love my Ranger =)
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2010, 10:26 AM
mickblock mickblock is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Well if you're gonna have fancy poly or whatever bushings in your suspension, it might as well be sway bar end links. I dunno about the mount bushings since I've heard that poly-fancy bushings squeek and that's already a squeek prone joint.
Doesn't the deterioration issue have to do with using petroleum or silicon based lubricant? I mean isn't there a different lube that is used on poly bushings?

10 -13 ft lbs is like - pretty much the same force you use when you screw the lid on a jar, so the instruction you have with your bushings shouldn't be defeated by using that spec.
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2012, 11:23 AM
pfsecosky pfsecosky is offline
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Default Re: Sway link replacement questions

Just replaced my sway bar links with an OEM equivalent version. The torque specs of 10-13ft-lb seem to be right. You need to torque the bolt until the bushings seat into the lower comtrol arm and sway bar. I tightemed mine until there was about 10 threads protruding from the bolt. This compressed the bushings somewhat. Yes the deteriation of the bushings is caused by lubricant, the instructions say "do not lubricate".
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