Hey all,

I've got a 96' 2WD Ranger XLT with a 2.3L. I've been getting a little bit of shaking out of my truck this past week. The symptoms are a pulsing shake at around 45mph and 70mph. It literally goes, "shake for .5 Seconds" "smooth for .5 Seconds". I know my truck is out of alignment because it pulls to the right, and it gets a constant shake at slight right turns. I noticed that if I push on the drivers side front wheel with my body weight (while the truck is on the ground) it has some play. The passenger side doesn't.

I don't think it would be a warped wheel or unbalanced tire, because that would cause constant shake. My thought was maybe wheel bearing?? Anyone have any thoughts? And does this truck have a steering stabilizer?

I'm thinking bearings if you can move the wheel like that

Check the carrier bearing on you drive shaft. I had two go out when I had my 96, and they will make the truck shake like a blown out tire. May not be the problem, but if it is, it's better to fix it before it leaves you on the side of the road, removing your drive shaft.

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2003 Ranger FX4 level II. 3" BL, 33x12.50 Goodyear Dura Tracs, Custome front and rear bumpers with winch hookups, bed mount full size spare, Electric fan, and of course a glasspack.

see i have the same problem... wen i hit 70 the front end of the truck shakes... and wen i start braking after going over 45.... but i dnt know wat the problem is...

Well, I inspected the bearings. Spinning just the rotor/spindle, It spun very freely, and there was a 'tick, tick, tick, tick'. So I took off the spindle nut cotter pin, and i could literally take off the nut with my hand. It was very loose. So I replaced the inner bearing, outer bearing, and the inner wheel seal, and packed that baby full of grease. I torqued the spindle nut at ~35-45 lb/ft and put it all back together. I test drove it and the shake is gone!!! Also the truck doesn't pull to the right as much for some reason.

Will tightening the spindle nut at the specs above cause any problems?? I don't wanna burn up a brand new bearing. I know that the bearing has to break in before it gets that "free spinning" form.

But the conclusion is, case closed!

upper and lower ball joints control arm bushings would help

I was told that when you do your bearings, you should tighten the hub nut up as far as it will go, then turn it back between a quarter and a half turn. That should keep the bearings in 'free form' and not bind.

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Billie, my "sparkly" blue 1992 Ranger

2.3 L I4
4 speed manual w/OD
Almost 180K miles, still going strong

Trying to dispel the myth of F.O.R.D. ...

This thread raises an obvious question in my mind. What is the proper 'tightening procedure' for the hub nut on something like the 99 Ranger? Is there a spec torque value, or is the 'just tight, then back 1/4' the correct method? I've always thought it was the later, but I'm a bit old school and stuff has changed since... hah... high school auto mechanics circa 1980. (At least I paid attention.)