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  #1  
Old 07-01-2018, 03:30 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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2010 2.3 stick with 2 inch maxtrac coils.

Few questions....

Is it going to be a bitch getting the spindle to jackup back into upper ball joint stud? Will i need ratcheting straps to strap into upper arm and lower to make them get married? I have a 3 ton real jack that i will keep under the lower arm and of course jack stands.

When tightening the upper control arm nuts is it critical to use a torque wrench (how many lbs?) or just common sense tightening?

I know the lower ball joint gets torqued to about 90 to 100 lbs. Or just efen tight using a 1/2 inch ratchet.

Stupid question:

Do different lower balljoint brands have different lengths at the stud area where it connects to the spindle at the bottom affecting ride height?

Reason im asking because a shop replaced 1 lower balljoint with a blue boot and a grease fitting but i dont see markings anywhere to order the same one to make it match. So if i get a different brand lower than that one is it going to affect anything like ride height?
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Last edited by rangergambler; 07-01-2018 at 03:34 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2018, 12:52 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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Bump
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2018, 01:53 PM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: need new ball jointsss..

Ride height will be fine as long as they are factory replacement style.

I just have jack stands under the frame and put the floor jack under the bottom a-arm and slowly jack up till you can feed the top balljoint into the spindle. Then go another inch or so to get everything seated. It's pretty simple, just don't jack up so much that the truck comes off the jackstands.
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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  #4  
Old 07-19-2018, 07:50 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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Quick question:

So i ordered new pinch bolts and new nuts from ford white bear lake for spindle to upper ball joint for my new upper ford oem arms...

The 2 nuts are oval a little and when i try to nut it in by hand to the bolt (truck not torn apart i was just checking out new parts) it dont seem right and i screwed it in with a wrench and socket and took it out and when i unscrewed the nut out the nut was hot. Are these defective nuts or this is fords way of thread locker? The bolt did not get stripped or anything simply the nuts were doing friction on the bolt threads... Should i contact the dealer from which i got the nuts to get me 2 new nuts and that one bolt that possibly got a little messed up by screwing the nut. The new oem nuts cannot be threaded by hand all the way and no they are not getting cross threaded.

I need to know if this is normal on the nuts being slightly oval for safety or they are a bad batch of nuts. I simply like to use new hardware whenever possible...

----------

Nut part number i got was W520113-S441



And bolt is:

N808474-S439
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Last edited by rangergambler; 07-19-2018 at 07:47 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2018, 05:57 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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I think its normal oval locknuts. I see marks where a machine made them a hair oval.
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2018, 06:26 AM
crowdpleazer crowdpleazer is offline
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Default Re: need new ball jointsss..

The nuts are supposed to be like that. They are called crush nuts. The idea is to go on once and lock to the bolt. They built up some heat which is normal. This is one way keep the nut from vibrating loose later on down the road. They are technically only supposed to be used once but if it still is tight like the first time you put it on it should be ok.
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1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2018, 06:16 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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10 4 bosss.
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2018, 03:06 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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Ok so i replaced the passenger side upper ARM with a new OEM UPPER ARM. No problem here... Straight forward and did final tightening of the upper arm bolts/nuts with wheel on the ground.


Driver side has a busted lower Ball joint boot....

Problem...

The BJ press i loaned from oreyleis only has 3 cups. Before removing bj i planned to see if i was gonna be able to press in the new OEM. i could have taken it out, but not press it in because the cup to put on top to allow bj section (with snap ring) to go through is too tall. Mother effer. Put everything back together and try in a few weeks when time permits...


WHICH BJ TOOL THAT I CAN RENT/LOAN HAS more cups with different heights that i can loan?
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Last edited by rangergambler; 07-29-2018 at 01:34 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-29-2018, 01:33 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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Hey tyler u still alive in the forums?

And taking off the spindle was a lot easier than i thought. Heavy with rotor attached...Same with the upper a arm easier than anticipated. I used a 13/16 wrench tekton brand that has that offset curve to get access to the nut...
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2018, 06:14 PM
rangergambler rangergambler is offline
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2010 2.3 coil spring 2wd ranger



Also do lower ford OEM lower ball joints have to be installed with a specific orientation into the lower arm?

There is a little arrow, numer 17 and some other symbol where the snap ring goes. No alignment marks? Or however it lands rotation wise in the lower arm....
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