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  #31  
Old 02-18-2010, 03:03 PM
NightmareFX4 NightmareFX4 is offline
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Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
ok, got the spot grinded on and paint removed around it for welding today! There is also a lip on the front of the boat that was tore up so we cut that off and we're going to put a piece of aluminm angle there. We also removed two anchor tie downs because im going with new ones!

My buddy doing some grinding:



Removing tiedowns:



The spot in floor gining me so much trouble





It gets an aluminum plate welded to it today to strengen it as well as seat that area off.

then maybe i can start on some sanding and priming!
Hey Scott

I was looking at your last photo here. And It looks like there was maybe a live well there at one time. Was there? I think I see two metal cuts along each side of your problem area. It's maybe why this is your problem area. Looks like the live well inlet/drain hole was filled at one time.

I say this as my live well was a gravity feed live well. As I think yours may have been. The nut for the filler tube backed right off on mine. While going through the Rice, Duck hunting in mid November here. Just about sunk the boat before we got to shore. We'd (my son and I) have been dead in not even 5 min flat in those water temps, if we had not made it to shore in time. Back of the boat was not even 1" from being sunk.

So I had it Aluminum plate welded top and bottom side. Wasn't worth the risk of happening again. I'll self fill and drain my live well (have an aerator for fish O2).

I have used Tremclad paint on my boat in many areas and it has worked great for me. Tremclad is my friend lolol. Great stuff.

Could post pics if it would help ya.
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Last edited by NightmareFX4; 02-18-2010 at 03:09 PM.
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  #32  
Old 02-18-2010, 03:59 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Thanks man! No I don't think there was a live well there. I think they hit a rock with it though and did a pisspoor job of welding on it. I got it back about an hour ago and the man did awesome on it! He welded a THICK gauge aluminum plate (thicker than what boat is made out of on top of that spot. Then next week, he is going to weld a plate on the underside of that spot. Sorry no pics will get some when I work on it again.
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  #33  
Old 02-20-2010, 02:28 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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UPDATE:

Picked up some materials today.

-1 pack of 150 grit sandpaper
-2 fine grit (150 grit equiv) sponges
-1 tube of marine epoxy (to fill screw holes where thing have been mounted over the years.

Here is progress from yesterday:

Spot welded in floor awaiting aluminum plate for the other side of it


The other side of the spot baing grinded and cleaned for the new plate monday.


The trailer. I redid the bunks, but they are going to have to be Re-done. They are nowhere near tall enough because the boat hits front of trailer when loading. This time i will stack the 2x4s and extend them further up. Also, i have to pick up some 1x1 tubing to make some side bunks.


The trailer will also be painted using the same paint as the boat.



A leaky rivet, I guess ill hammer it together again and then put some kind of sealer around it (suggestions). i've never really fised them. I was told that i should just have them welded when i get that plate put on monday, but i dont know if i like that idea.



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  #34  
Old 02-22-2010, 05:39 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Feb 21 UPDATE:

I went this morning to work on boat some more. Started sanding at 10:30 am and didnt stop until 5:30 pm! I sanded the entire outside of the boat by hand with 150 grit sandpaper. Going today to sand the inside of the boat. Still undecided if i want to spot prime just where bare aluminum is, or just prime the entire thing :?: :? Also you can see where fishfinders have been mounted over the years...lol--there is a 2 1/2" by 2" rectange on the back with about 15 screw holes in it! I am going to have an aluminum plate welded to the back of that spot, then going to fill them in with marine epoxy. I also rebucked all the rivets up front with a sledgehammer on one side and hitting them with a regular hammer. I hope this helps some, but now have to decide if i want to have them welded or just use that marine epoxy around them as well. So many decisions! Also, you can see where i grinded off the sticker, they were really on there and even sticer remover wouldnt remove them---the grinder did! On to the pics, cant really tell its been sanded, but it has and now my arms are about to fall off.











.

^^one of the leaky rivets. You can tell its been hit and banged on before where its so depressed into the aluminum! What would ya'll guys do in this situation?
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  #35  
Old 02-22-2010, 06:41 AM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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i would drill it out and weld that area back together with filler where the rivet was. or if it is in a convenient location for a rod holder you could always just bolt the rod holder there and put some rubber washers so it doesnt leak.
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  #36  
Old 02-22-2010, 06:54 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer03133 View Post
i would drill it out and weld that area back together with filler where the rivet was. or if it is in a convenient location for a rod holder you could always just bolt the rod holder there and put some rubber washers so it doesnt leak.
This are will eventaally be covered up with decking. Nah i better leave it, it would weakin it if i removed it. its either epoxy around it or weld it
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  #37  
Old 02-22-2010, 07:08 AM
prestidigitizer prestidigitizer is offline
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Nice work so far - must be satisfying! Look forward to seeing more
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  #38  
Old 02-22-2010, 07:20 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Originally Posted by prestidigitizer View Post
Nice work so far - must be satisfying! Look forward to seeing more
it wont be long, ordering stickers for it tomorrow (the state numbers and some custom ones that will say "Bass Awkards")

Painting within 2-3 weeks if i can help it. I will feel more satisfied when there is a nice coat of paint on it and it looks awesome!
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  #39  
Old 02-22-2010, 09:24 AM
NightmareFX4 NightmareFX4 is offline
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Looking good Shane. Just have your welder, weld up the rivets and fill any holes from old mounts. You may have a little grinding and sanding to do afterwards. But you won't regret it. You could probably get away with just spot primer on none painted surfaces, but I would just prime it all. Again you won't regret it.

Ya did the right thing by double plating the problem area. That's how I did mine (live well hole).

Lookin real good. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Cheers Jeff
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Last edited by NightmareFX4; 02-22-2010 at 09:27 AM.
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  #40  
Old 02-22-2010, 09:28 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightmareFX4 View Post
Looking good Shane. Just have your welder, weld up the rivets and fill any holes from old mounts. You may have a little grinding and sanding to do afterwards. But you won't regret it. You could probably get away with just spot primer on none painted surfaces, but I would just prime it all. Again you won't regret it.

Lookin real good. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Cheers Jeff
You mean Scott...lol yeah, i could possibly do that too... The finished product will look great.

Just imagine...carpeted floors, casting deck, swivel seats, fresh paint
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  #41  
Old 02-22-2010, 05:55 PM
NightmareFX4 NightmareFX4 is offline
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Originally Posted by dixie_boysles View Post
You mean Scott...lol yeah, i could possibly do that too... The finished product will look great.

Just imagine...carpeted floors, casting deck, swivel seats, fresh paint
Sorry Shane duh I mean Scott lol. Just a suggestion, but you should do the floors in aluminum sheeting (rivet it to the crossmembers). Then paint Olive drab green (blacks way to hot on the feet in the sun). That way it's lighter wieght, dosen't stay wet and there's no wood to eventually dry rot or water log (easier to clean as well, just pull the drain plug and hose out the fish slim, guts, duck feathers, sand , mud, weeds.......). Not hard to do either.

Done the marine wood floor with outdoor carpet root before and never again. Aluminum floor no fuss, good ta go for a long long time.

Cheers
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Last edited by NightmareFX4; 02-22-2010 at 05:59 PM.
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  #42  
Old 02-22-2010, 08:11 PM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Originally Posted by NightmareFX4 View Post
Sorry Shane duh I mean Scott lol. Just a suggestion, but you should do the floors in aluminum sheeting (rivet it to the crossmembers). Then paint Olive drab green (blacks way to hot on the feet in the sun). That way it's lighter wieght, dosen't stay wet and there's no wood to eventually dry rot or water log (easier to clean as well, just pull the drain plug and hose out the fish slim, guts, duck feathers, sand , mud, weeds.......). Not hard to do either.

Done the marine wood floor with outdoor carpet root before and never again. Aluminum floor no fuss, good ta go for a long long time.

Cheers
Thanks man, but I'm pretty dead set on a plywood floor carpeted in outdoor boat carpet (they make carpet specifically for boats). Before this boat, I fished out of another 14ft jon boat with carpeted floors and love it. Also, the plywood will be covered in fiberglass (can't use treadted with aluminum, it pits it). The way I'm doing it won't make the boat that much heavier. Aluminum sheets just cost too much, I'd love to do the floor in aluminum, but this is a budget build (if I can find some at salvage yard, ill go that route). But it will be carpeted, I fish barefooted and its nice!
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  #43  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:57 AM
NightmareFX4 NightmareFX4 is offline
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Hey Scott I once had a 1997 Starcraft Fish & Ski Bow Rider (130HP I/O Mercruiser).

It had the blue carpet specifically for boats factory original with marine plywood. That combination of marine wood & carpet does not stop the wood from water logging or rotting. I sold it in 2001 and the front wood bow portion was already rotted and soaked (4yrs done). This boat was only used 2 months of every year I had it (4 years of ownership = 8 months of actual use). 10 months of each year it was stored in my garage. The 2 months of every year I did used it, when moared or on the trailer I had the snap on cover on it. Go figure.

Been around the marine world since I could crawl (47 years now). Have owned 16 boats now. Done lots of boat repairs, maintenance and installs on mine and others. Everything from hydroplanes, Seaflies, canoes, yachts (sail and motor), offshore, pontoons, cruisers, runabouts, aluminums, seadoos, bassboats.....
And one thing I can tell you for sure I've see a lot of rotten and water soaked marine wood that had been covered in marine grade carpet or even covered in fiberglass.

Just my two cents if ya plan on keeping it for quite a while. Aluminum floor with marine carpet would work out great (nothin to rot or soak, lighter / best of both worlds). Hope ya can find some cheap aluminum sheets. Carpet does feel good on the feet for sure.

Sorry for really trying to convince ya to go the aluminum way Scott lolol. (just trying to save ya some cash, time and headache in the long run)

Cheers Jeff
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Last edited by NightmareFX4; 02-23-2010 at 10:04 AM.
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  #44  
Old 02-23-2010, 11:01 AM
dixie_boysles dixie_boysles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightmareFX4 View Post
Hey Scott I once had a 1997 Starcraft Fish & Ski Bow Rider (130HP I/O Mercruiser).

It had the blue carpet specifically for boats factory original with marine plywood. That combination of marine wood & carpet does not stop the wood from water logging or rotting. I sold it in 2001 and the front wood bow portion was already rotted and soaked (4yrs done). This boat was only used 2 months of every year I had it (4 years of ownership = 8 months of actual use). 10 months of each year it was stored in my garage. The 2 months of every year I did used it, when moared or on the trailer I had the snap on cover on it. Go figure.

Been around the marine world since I could crawl (47 years now). Have owned 16 boats now. Done lots of boat repairs, maintenance and installs on mine and others. Everything from hydroplanes, Seaflies, canoes, yachts (sail and motor), offshore, pontoons, cruisers, runabouts, aluminums, seadoos, bassboats.....
And one thing I can tell you for sure I've see a lot of rotten and water soaked marine wood that had been covered in marine grade carpet or even covered in fiberglass.

Just my two cents if ya plan on keeping it for quite a while. Aluminum floor with marine carpet would work out great (nothin to rot or soak, lighter / best of both worlds). Hope ya can find some cheap aluminum sheets. Carpet does feel good on the feet for sure.

Sorry for really trying to convince ya to go the aluminum way Scott lolol. (just trying to save ya some cash, time and headache in the long run)

Cheers Jeff
oh no your fine, if i can find some aluminum sheets, i will go that route (roadsigns here i come.jk..lol). This is just a low budget build...and i mean low. Im having the welsing done for free, im getting free labor from a friend who is helping me sand, im getting free paint labor from a friend. I figure i can get away with a nice painted boat with carpeted floors for around $400.

Heres the price so far:

Sandpaper and epoxy: $15.00
Paint........................$45.00
Trailer winch strap......$10.00
Bunk Boards...............$12.00
carpet......................$100.00
Glue.........................25.00
stickers.....................$~$30.00
Foamboard.................$30.00
Seats........................$80.00
Plywood.....................$40.00
Screws/Rivets..............$15.00
2x4s...........................$5.00
piano hinge..................$6.00

Grand total: approx $413.00

not bad, but that is with cutting corners on stuff like welding and painting charges!
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  #45  
Old 02-23-2010, 12:17 PM
NightmareFX4 NightmareFX4 is offline
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Definatly a great deal ya got going there. And it sure is great to have skilled friends helpen ya out to.

Here's a site for sheet metal pricing (just to give ya an idea of costs).

http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=sheet&LimAcc=$LimAcc&aident=

Hope ya can find some cheap aluminum sheeting.

Cheers
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