Project 5.0 / 2010 - Page 2

philhilljr · #16 07-20-2010, 12:42 PM

My heater box mod. This thing kicked my ass!

philhilljr · #17 08-09-2010, 03:05 PM

I finally started unbolting the motor in the marquis this weekend and came to realize that i'm probably not gonna be able to use the radiator out of it for the swap. I've heard that the 4.0l ranger rad. would work with the 5.0 swap, is this true? If anyone has any info on cooling this motor please help me out. Also I'm trying to find a set of gt40 heads for this thing so if anyone has a set for sell let me know and maybe we can work something out. Pics of the teardown and rebuild coming soon!!!!!!!!!!!!

Psychopete · #18 08-09-2010, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philhilljr

I've heard that the 4.0l ranger rad. would work with the 5.0 swap, is this true? If anyone has any info on cooling this motor please help me out. Also I'm trying to find a set of gt40 heads for this thing so if anyone has a set for sell let me know and maybe we can work something out. Pics of the teardown and rebuild coming soon!!!!!!!!!!!!

91-94 Explorer 4.0L Max Cooling w/ A/C for an automatic transmission (2 row). With an engine with the long front end dress, not much option but to modify the core support for clearance - you'll see when you get there. Mine has been running a bit warm since mid-summer has hit, I am using a flex fan and am planning on trying an electric, but there isn't much room. I used the flex fan because the electric I had did not fit. Just have to experiment...

If you want GT40s, price + if you get them machined = you should just get aftermarket aluminum heads. If you are swapping heads and changing cams, you need pistons with valve reliefs or else they will contact, but general rule is to check it to be sure.

What cam depends what you are using it for...

JUSTA40RANGER · #19 08-13-2010, 01:35 PM

this is what i want to do to my 2002

philhilljr · #20 08-23-2010, 07:45 PM

FINALLY !!! I've finally gotten together with my father this past saturday and pulled this motor from the marquis. Yesterday and today i have pulled the trans and converter off of the block and taken everything off except the water pump and heads. I have a question though (why wouldn't I , huh) I'm only going back with the altenator and water pump on this motor and was wondering if there was a power steering eliminator bracket or pulley that i can get or just to get a shorter belt. Please help. Thanks in advance. As i get this thing tore down and pieced back together i will post more pics. ( Its a wonder the marquis even ran with all of this build up in the motor)

Psychopete · #21 08-24-2010, 06:31 AM

That was a standard rotation water pump correct? That will have a huge impact on the front end dress since on the reverse rotation the water pump pulley rides the back of the belt. But if it's standard rotation, just get a belt that will fit.

The marquis power steering pump should bolt up to your stock lines though (best to compare though). I am using a '92 Cougar 5.0L pump on my stock steering box. Going to be a bear to steer with out a manual steering box if you had power steering prior...

philhilljr · #22 08-25-2010, 05:32 PM

Hey thanks again Pete, and yes that was a std water pump so just getting a belt that'll fit is just what I wanted to hear. And the ranger didn't have power steering to begin with so i should be good to go there also.

philhilljr · #23 09-01-2010, 09:05 PM

alright i have the motor totally dis-assembled and it's on the way to get hot tanked along with the crank being tanked and polished on friday. i still have to get the bearings, lifters and piston rings for this thing, along with a new cam. and i have to clean up the pistons. can't wait to start bolting this thing back together.

Psychopete · #24 09-02-2010, 06:13 AM

Becareful with what pistons you use with a higher lift cam and different heads. Would suck to get it all together and you have piston to valve interferrence, might be worth while to do some research to make sure..

philhilljr · #25 09-03-2010, 05:32 PM

Hey Pete, one of my dad's friends has a b303 cam that he said I can have have. For now I'm going with the stock pistons and heads until I can pony up the dough for something after-market. Should I be fine with this set-up for now?

Psychopete · #26 09-04-2010, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philhilljr

Hey Pete, one of my dad's friends has a b303 cam that he said I can have have. For now I'm going with the stock pistons and heads until I can pony up the dough for something after-market. Should I be fine with this set-up for now?

That is a pretty nasty cam LOL, I have one in my truck. Wish I would have gone with a stock HO cam with an auto (you can get 400hp / high 300 ft/lbs of torque on a stock 5.0L bottom end with good aftermarket heads and fuel system). It'd just be a nice smooth motor, the B303 has some lope to it.

As far as interference, I am not 100% sure if you're going to run into trouble or not. I'm running a similar motor out of an '87 Marquis with GT40 heads and I just swapped pistons to forged w/ valve releifs (hypereutectic pistons are cheaper and would be very ideal for your engine if not planning any nitrous or forced induction because of their thermal expansion properties, but a shop will probably have to bore for the right tolerances - forged are slightly bigger to make up for the heat expansion, which can cause some cold start annoyances later on) because it's so deep into the engine. But the best way to know is to assemble, put on the heads and test the piston to valve clearance.

philhilljr · #27 09-06-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psychopete

That is a pretty nasty cam LOL, I have one in my truck. Wish I would have gone with a stock HO cam with an auto (you can get 400hp / high 300 ft/lbs of torque on a stock 5.0L bottom end with good aftermarket heads and fuel system). It'd just be a nice smooth motor, the B303 has some lope to it.

As far as interference, I am not 100% sure if you're going to run into trouble or not. I'm running a similar motor out of an '87 Marquis with GT40 heads and I just swapped pistons to forged w/ valve releifs (hypereutectic pistons are cheaper and would be very ideal for your engine if not planning any nitrous or forced induction because of their thermal expansion properties, but a shop will probably have to bore for the right tolerances - forged are slightly bigger to make up for the heat expansion, which can cause some cold start annoyances later on) because it's so deep into the engine. But the best way to know is to assemble, put on the heads and test the piston to valve clearance.

Ok, I got my block and crank back from the shop today and everything looks pretty good, also had the cylinders honed. Now I started cleaning up my pistons Saturday and noticed that 2 of them were cracked. While talking to the guy at the machine shop he said it was probably from detonation in the engine and my best bet would be to replace them all. I see you said that I should have the cylinders bored for the hyper. pistons, is that necessary or just a precaution. I'm trying to have some pistons by this weekend so that I can start putting some of this puzzle back together. And what would be the advantage of forged pistons?

philhilljr · #28 09-06-2010, 08:20 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/Skirt-Coated-Pis...item1c12e27523
what about these pistons?

Psychopete · #29 09-07-2010, 02:13 PM

Looks like they'd work. My valve reliefs are a lot more shallow:

But same brand of piston.. Running those pistons with a b303 and GT40 heads and 1.6:1 crane roller rockers.

The bore needs to match the piston because the different materials they make them out of expand at different rates. The hyper pistons don't have as much heat expansion so they can get away with tighter tolerances in the bore. Basically get long term reliability. You'll have to ask your shop if you can get away with using the current bore size, or if they'll need to re-bore for the hyper pistons to get the right tolerance.

philhilljr · #30 09-07-2010, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psychopete

Looks like they'd work. My valve reliefs are a lot more shallow:

But same brand of piston.. Running those pistons with a b303 and GT40 heads and 1.6:1 crane roller rockers.

The bore needs to match the piston because the different materials they make them out of expand at different rates. The hyper pistons don't have as much heat expansion so they can get away with tighter tolerances in the bore. Basically get long term reliability. You'll have to ask your shop if you can get away with using the current bore size, or if they'll need to re-bore for the hyper pistons to get the right tolerance.

Thanks again Pete , and I will ask to be sure the pistons will work before i make a purchase. You're alright wiith me!