rangerluc's SAS - Page 3

RangerLuc · #31 06-27-2010, 06:37 PM

damn so ive got to do a manual t-case swap?
and i just picked up my d44...its got spicer u-joints and yukon crmo shafts
im going to cut off the coil plates tomorrow, and do i need to cut that long tube that comes off the top of the axle? im pretty sure its for the control arm?
so a chevy/gmc 2500 used front leafs will work? how much lift will it give me

rstangboi · #32 06-28-2010, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

damn so ive got to do a manual t-case swap?
and i just picked up my d44...its got spicer u-joints and yukon crmo shafts
im going to cut off the coil plates tomorrow, and do i need to cut that long tube that comes off the top of the axle? im pretty sure its for the control arm?
so a chevy/gmc 2500 used front leafs will work? how much lift will it give me

unless you get some funky adapter like on the superlift drive shaft its the easiest way.

nice find, ya, cut off everything. smooth it all out and throw the leaf perches on there.

and no. 63's for the rear....

RangerLuc · #33 06-28-2010, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

unless you get some funky adapter like on the superlift drive shaft its the easiest way.

nice find, ya, cut off everything. smooth it all out and throw the leaf perches on there.

and no. 63's for the rear....

ok, ill start lookin for one at the jy. im going today to pick up my yota box
and im looking t ballistic fab perches, but my axle tube dia is 9", and theres only goes up to 4", am i measuring it wrong?

rstangboi · #34 06-28-2010, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

ok, ill start lookin for one at the jy. im going today to pick up my yota box
and im looking t ballistic fab perches, but my axle tube dia is 9", and theres only goes up to 4", am i measuring it wrong?

idk. checkout ruffstuff also. they got tons to choose from.

RangerLuc · #35 06-28-2010, 12:55 PM

ok, just ordered my perches from ruffstuff. and i picked up my yoda box today and it has the stock pitman arm on it, will that one work?

rstangboi · #36 06-28-2010, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

ok, just ordered my perches from ruffstuff. and i picked up my yoda box today and it has the stock pitman arm on it, will that one work?

you can make it work, ya.
i had to buy a pitman arm cuz i have gm 1ton ends. you can get yota ends on your steering setup.

RangerLuc · #37 06-28-2010, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

you can make it work, ya.
i had to buy a pitman arm cuz i have gm 1ton ends. you can get yota ends on your steering setup.

ok
and once again, i appreciate all the help!!!
and does the yota box NEED to be welded on? or can i just drill 3 holes in my frame to match the holes on the box and put some 6" grade 8 bolts through it? and you said mount it as far up as possible? so right behind the rad?
and did you have to get a new steering rod? or did you mod your stock one to make it over to the new box

rstangboi · #38 06-28-2010, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

ok
and once again, i appreciate all the help!!!
and does the yota box NEED to be welded on? or can i just drill 3 holes in my frame to match the holes on the box and put some 6" grade 8 bolts through it? and you said mount it as far up as possible? so right behind the rad?
and did you have to get a new steering rod? or did you mod your stock one to make it over to the new box

it doesnt need to be welded on, but what DOES need to be welded on is frame plates. and im not talking about 1/8th, beef it up there. the reason is is that if you dont, you'll tweak the hell out of your frame there from the push pull factor. also sleeve the holes....something i still have to do...

and ya, mount it as far forward as you can, also the top cylindrical part of the box fits nicely cuz itll kinda show you how low you can mount the box.

and ya, theres a how to on RF on how to mod up your shaft.

RangerLuc · #39 06-28-2010, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

it doesnt need to be welded on, but what DOES need to be welded on is frame plates. and im not talking about 1/8th, beef it up there. the reason is is that if you dont, you'll tweak the hell out of your frame there from the push pull factor. also sleeve the holes....something i still have to do...

and ya, mount it as far forward as you can, also the top cylindrical part of the box fits nicely cuz itll kinda show you how low you can mount the box.

and ya, theres a how to on RF on how to mod up your shaft.

ok, so pretty much wherever im welding parts onto the frame, put 1/4" plating behind it? so for the box, drill 3 holes, put 1/4" plating behind the box and sleeve the 3 holes?

rstangboi · #40 06-28-2010, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

ok, so pretty much wherever im welding parts onto the frame, put 1/4" plating behind it? so for the box, drill 3 holes, put 1/4" plating behind the box and sleeve the 3 holes?

ya, just sandwitch your frame between those plates, and weld em on with the holes and etc.

RangerLuc · #41 06-29-2010, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

ya, just sandwitch your frame between those plates, and weld em on with the holes and etc.

hey what year was that exploder u got ur t-case from?

rstangboi · #42 06-29-2010, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

hey what year was that exploder u got ur t-case from?

already told you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

and yes, any first gen explorer with a manual tcase works, otherwise im not sure about the electric case compatibility with our trucks...

RangerLuc · #43 06-29-2010, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

already told you.

i know, i just dont know what year is 1st gen
and i was thinking, would it be possible to cut the rear half of my driveshaft off, and weld it to the front half of the exploder shaft so i can keep my t-case?

rstangboi · #44 06-29-2010, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerLuc

i know, i just dont know what year is 1st gen
and i was thinking, would it be possible to cut the rear half of my driveshaft off, and weld it to the front half of the exploder shaft so i can keep my t-case?

i guess. you could prolly sleeve it and mate it with the explorer one... but i think the issue is weather or not the ball/socket style would have enough articulation to get to your axle, and manage droop without breaking. cuz it only has like what..15degrees to maybe 25degrees of movement? just a guess but i dont remember it being much.

RangerLuc · #45 06-29-2010, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rstangboi

i guess. you could prolly sleeve it and mate it with the explorer one... but i think the issue is weather or not the ball/socket style would have enough articulation to get to your axle, and manage droop without breaking. cuz it only has like what..15degrees to maybe 25degrees of movement? just a guess but i dont remember it being much.

ohhh ya that makes sense about the articulation