FAST Fabrication 94 b4000 turn into SNORE class 7 race truck - Page 6

Demon-FX4 · #76 10-15-2010, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FAST Fabrication

thank you for all the compliments

thank u for the badazz ranger

FAST Fabrication · #77 11-26-2010, 11:08 PM

what was originally in truck, not done by us

first tube

second tube took awhile to get it perfectly plumb and level

cpl more updates tomorrow then brake for two weeks

96B2300 · #78 11-30-2010, 08:55 PM

I think I just came a little....

rangercrazy07 · #79 11-30-2010, 09:08 PM

wow now that is some fabrication! good job!

Solo V8 4G · #80 12-03-2010, 03:27 PM

I have to say... this thing is one tough truck!

FAST Fabrication · #81 12-21-2010, 06:05 PM

been working hard getting ready for our first race in Feb to start the season

here is one of the gusset tubes, we decided to go straight in stead of down and bend, keep it stronger and cleaner

here are the pictures of the frame work... have 3/4 4130 250 wall crush sleeves on passenger side for swinger.. both sides have 3/16 plate on each side tieing frame to new engine cage and to the cross brace... it will be completely boxed on the ends once we build the bumper, plates already cut to close it up

here are the picks from the mock up of the shock mounts... we are almost done with driver side bypass.... the coilover droop it self out without binding.. bypass is on the exact same plane as the coilover is and should have no issues either being that lengths are identical.. we will be gusseting and dimpling the sides of the tabs

just about done... mocking up last tab on upper bypass mount

these are my old hubs that were in my previous housing... were only used for mock up... first $500 takes them.. same as the dezert nation ones, in fact use to say dezert nation on them until manufacture took back an unpaid order and re anodize the caps and I bought from him. Snouts not included I can get for under 200, they are 2.25 and are identical to dezert nation, camburg, and mitler brothers.. One has nicks in it because previous shop who screwed rest of the things on my truck did not use grease and bearings and nut had rusted to snout, had to use a screw driver to get it off. They are 5x5.5 with coarse thread. When I bought these they were $1100, they now sell for $1500 and only difference is the two snouts and the bearings and seal, I have the bearings but i suggest buying new ones. For the front you just need to get the snouts, for rear you need to get snouts and get hollowed out and get drive plates.

FAST Fabrication · #82 12-21-2010, 06:54 PM

got the bypass finished.. minus gussets.. it cycle perfectly, took shots as it droop out on it own... no binding at all just like the coilover... think it looks so much better then before

here is the suspension drooping out on its own

BILTRITE BULLIES · #83 12-21-2010, 07:59 PM

thats is some awsome work, wish I lived closer to you I would hang at your shop all day

FAST Fabrication · #84 12-21-2010, 11:11 PM

if u r ever in town more than welcome to

FAST Fabrication · #85 12-28-2010, 01:52 PM

The start of the bump can set up, it’s bolt on since they are mounted to beam mounts… Took us a long time we tried so many variations trying to get it out as far as possible and not change through its travel so it would end up in our dimpled pad

Limit strap, it will have dual on each side

Suspension is off, to weld it up, cleaning it up and building our dimpled gussets to box in bump can mounts, there are these cuts all around one of the beams but it must have been like that when dave welded them up because they are only on the inner plate, if it was after I got them their be gouges on all the plates not just inner one all the way around

Started making all our gussets

Not going to believe what we found after we removed the suspension for the first time since I had the truck, previous shop drilled beam mounts while mount was tacked up leaving a bunch of metal in between mount and frame rusting it all up and 3 of the holes have to be slugged and welded and redrilled because they didn’t set it up based on the factory holes and then take a marker or whatever and draw the other holes that have to be drilled, actually we might have to slug all them, now that I think about it.

The clips resting space and some upgrades to the garage and our other toy 

FAST Fabrication · #86 12-29-2010, 11:15 AM

I was trying new size, so these pictures will be a quite a bit bigger, you guys wanted bigger pictures lol.... bump cans and suspension all welded up... just need to clean slag and were ready for paint

drop down two sizes

FAST Fabrication · #87 12-30-2010, 08:50 AM

Here are the finishing touches to the frame ends, bulletproof

these showed up yesterday, so going to start on motor mounts today

After a day with Keith Basso at his amazing house and garage/shop set up we had a long talk. I have decided to take this year to tune my driving skills and my understanding of my truck and work out the kinks and be able to push it to the limit. So instead of throwing my money away and not being in the way of other classes, I am going to start this season in the sportsman class I still plan on doing SNORE but also race some MORE/MDR/Drive. I will race one/couple class 7 this year in prep for a full season next year most likely the rage at the river 2011. I am doing this also so I can take my time and not rush through electrical, I dont want to complete truck have no seat time or just a couple hours go out and decide to go faster and roll the truck first race and be down for half a season. So we are still shooting for BAP if it does not get done, then ok and we will race the MINT or Barstow 250 in March. As of right now I do not plan on putting a v8 in the truck, I want to be able to push the 6 to its limits and be comfortable with that motor because my main goal is class 7 not 1400/1450. I will be at parker in a couple weeks supporting Keith Bassso and learning the ropes of pitting.

FAST Fabrication · #88 01-04-2011, 02:14 PM

Finished motor mounts yesterday, took longer than I hope but with no engine hoist and not pulling motor made it a little more fun lol. I would say we drop it an inch to 1.5" and moved it back an inch. The x brace clears easily now, we used the stock motor plate because it was made out of 3/16 and nice lip. We could of drop it more if we made new plates but we do not plan to keep this motor so made it simpler. Also put the bushing on the frame side so when new motor went it we could just put new tabs on the new motor, but I wish I would of put the bushing on the motor plate. The bushing is welded to the frame and then 4 plates are welded to the bushing and frame, next time motor is out ill put a gusset in between the bottom two plates. We still have clearance all the way around.
Before:

Lifted it up

Lowered it back down, Just to see how far down it would go

New mounts

Got the x brace all tacked in, plenty of room… before the alternator was in the way and required a bend to be put around it

Completed the fix on driver frame beam mount, the passenger side was worse. I had notice the mount was not up against frame thought the bolts were just not tight, nope they tacked it up and drilled holes without it being all the way up in the frame. So several holes to fix and one needs to be slugged and redrilled. These corrections are making fabrication go longer on front, BAP is out of the question looking at the MORE race in March since do not want MINT 400 to be first

FAST Fabrication · #89 01-07-2011, 08:57 PM

this is just rust converter

updates, driver side still needs the back tuve from the outside pop, its cut but not tacck in yet, also going to do soe plate work on at the junction on the frame

we took the old fender sheet metal cut it then folded it over to close the opening to the inside of cab on the sides

here are a couple brake line pictures, didnt take them all because we still have to drill and tap some clamps, the wishbone has a superman S lol

DiabloBlanco · #90 01-07-2011, 09:04 PM

looks good keith, I work for SCORE over here.

Nice rig!