got lower link arm for sway bar pocket done and level out housing for bump pad




bump cans fully welded




rear gusset which also was used to mount fuel cell due to relocation




fuel cell back in



sway bar mount

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how far off driveshaft needed to be extended at ride height... getting custom one made


full droop, roughly 35" of useable wheel travel, going to strap at around 25




bump, where can will will hit on axle



fuel cell clears now


spare mount is done, finishing fabricating the spinners




sway bar completed, going to add a quick disconnect pin set up



cpl dooped pics of A-arm ranger, working on front bumper for a explorer and frontier this week for customers

thanks to our sponsors PRP Seats at prpseats.com

damn, this thing belongs down in baja!

soon maybe next year.... first race Rage a t the river Dec 10th in Laughlin

should be at this years offroad expo on display

Welded and completed sway bar, bump stops & pads




spinner parts welded, still need to weld handle bar, studs, and lil gussets


Axle painted, extended stock driveshaft in, suspension fully bumped plenty of clearance

from back half

from fuel cell

from battery box/differential

and from wishonbe and backhalf


Vision X lights...one 9" and one 7" to mock up light bar and bumper, work light is insanely bright comes with car charger and wall charger, poly-cabronate lenses


found tall jackstands for $60 each after ship


old shock mount pockets before cut



passenger side after cut



think i will call my truck the grasshopper or locust lol


bypass will actually be an 1" taller and coil-over 1" taller from before, causing us to need 90 degree resi fitting.

I have one of those work lights, I love it!

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Spinner and spare tire is done, just waiting on shock ends to finish shock mounts, then rear is done until fuel cell decision is made...



think were going to do a front mounted light bar... with 5 6.7 vision x lights















changed to blue.... only having suspension parts grey







still pushing on just waiting for parts from sway away and tech guy from MDR/MORE/LORE/etc to come check cab cage and fuel cell and rest of truck he said for sure mon or tues, so once that is done we can actually continue full on with truck figure out our options with fuel cell and go from there. School starts again 21 next month so got to get as much as I can done.

old bedside mounts



new mounts, glass out further in the back, amd 1" 5/8 gap at bump





here is the glass mounted, there is a slight gap in bumper, but tech guy told me need to cut the hook off so there will be plenty of room..






future plans if/when bedsides break or mount breaks plan to cut bend out of front and go straight across like rear and change the previous tabs to the longer plate tabs, also plan to put a 4th in the rear on top but a hood pin not a dzus fastener so easy to set on straight and keep wait off fastener

shock parts showed up tonight, tomo we dissamble the shocks and work on building the new rear mounts, then the rear is finished minus plumbing and whatever happens with fuel cell

Man I want some bed sides like that so I can fit a massive slick/street tire backthere then maybe I could hook up

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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,tc 2.3t 30 over trw pistons arp rods mains and head studs, a237cam,Adj Cam Gear, Topmount with external wastegate,Walbro 255,42# injectors,bbk fpr,fmic,90* rotated upper intake,t3 18psi,6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,hks ssqv bov,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, hurst equipt, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 bumper
www.turborangerforums.com
PNW Crew
AC

Here is FAST Fabrication custom shock mounts prior to weld and over lay plate. These were completely designed by a Master Carpenter not a Fabricator and has never claimed to be one, he built the whole thing with (Jigsaw, Grinder, Cut-Off, Drill, Hammer, Vise, Tape Measure, Level, Plumb Bob, Clamps, and Welded) the thing is perfect, shocks are correct distance, completely vertical ends do not rub anywhere on trailing arm and spacers are same distance, and shock mount follows same plan as trailing arm. Over lay plate is getting cut tomo then I am going to see about getting letters cut into it by CNC otherwise will do it with a drill, jigsaw, and die grinder.

In your guys opinion does it look strong enough, its 1/8 plate has one vertical rib on the inside, may box bottom corners or put vertical wedges at the bottom to if you think it needs it. It was very difficult took 2.5 days lots of going back and forth to the grinding with the compound angles and then the driver side tubes being half inch in. We were able to keep it symetrical from distance to tube and mounting position, only difference from back you can see a lil top edge from inside plate on driverside, tube is 1/2" off but turns into about 1/8" because shocks are stagger because trailing arms do not go straight back they go at an angle.







the previous one, I cant show the tape measure pictures maybe in the future



just finished pass side today

FAST Fabrication built explorer basic bumper



Took the boat out for the first time, it was super busy and windy



A look at the truck in the garage/shop



Shock mounts fully welded and overlay plates should be here tomo or friday from R&I



weld on resi mounts, tilted for a reason


bedside plate, for strength and race number stickers



Rear limit straps completed, strapped at 25" for now


Spare tire mount is completely done, we made new tabs to raise the front to keep tires off batteries as well as give more room to put filler neck in between cell and rack


Added a tube cap to finish rear off besides paint and plumb/electrical...on to cab in next day or two after we finish welding a few things

Took our damage 32 gallon jaz jeepspeed cell got a new blank bladder and sending unit completely dismantled the damage one, clean the tacks and edges and burns off the skin, cut the new holes in the blank and transfer all the parts including the foam.. Then using a piano hinge we attached both sides together allowing it to come apart as well as fit in ranger frame rails or at least our spot, its maybe a 1/8" wider then the actual box and hats only at the hinge part were before you had 1/2 flanges on both sides



first we drilled holes from inside and did a spot/tack weld just like jaz does, but we decided to add small beads on outside and edges just in case.

\



finished product, took about 9-10 hours

Finished the back panel, the ends were hard without metal shaping tools to match compound bends... So we did our best did not worry about having a straight line on bottom, didn’t matter because we had to cover up the square cut our on driver side.... looks good and hella strong, the 1" tube that they put between cab fell out as we were welding the cage to the plate, so might not bother with cutting a hole and running a tube to frame and floor.






The tube that was sitting in there


not sure if anyone has ever done this, but I came up with an idea to help with the scoop getting air to the coolers, but more so to strengthen the corner/back of cab were 2 pieces were cut out on each side (guessing because first cage was removed) and I myself welded the insides closed back together as far up as I could get the nozzle in and the driver side the gap between them was just too big, got tired or trying to bridge a 1/4" plus gap. So this piece welds to sliding glass window edge (were both pieces were cut from so adding a piece to weld not only the two pieces to the plate but also to outside skin, and then it goes to the extended cab window edge pass were the cab was cut off so strengthening that as well) It is super strong I like it, would of put dimples or our name in it, but then defeats purpose of pushing air through smoothly



Seat harness are done



I had a question on the seat mounts; we have the front tube that we made hoop over the tranny hump. Because of how far the cage is from the side, the seats sliders only allow for one notch movement because of b pillar on back movement and hoop over tranny on front mount. Do you have to have two bars going all the way across, or can I cut the hoop part and weld a plate from the front floor bar to either back bar or the cab floor were stock front seat mounts were?


We got the engine oil cooler in yesterday will be getting lots of parts these next weeks, I pick a different color for the truck going with one single color will show it at the expo. Along with our fiberglass dash/scoops/and visor. I think we are going to make a mold for a visor and sell them cheap, even cheaper if you don’t want gel coated.