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  #91  
Old 02-18-2017, 12:17 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

Well, I was hoping to go out to a rather remote area this weekend and do a walk around video and maybe a second video with/for truck EDC vs Other outings... and now I got rained out..

In other news, I have tallied up a parts list of components needed to make the drawer system and raised floor portion of the truck bed. Unfortunately for both myself and a company I found in Australia. They would not ship parts to the US so I had to follow a second US distributor option and nearly pay three times as much for the components needed.

If I get a chance too I may post some of my sketches. I was always taught to write down goals so they become actually goals to cross off a list rather than remain as idle thoughts in my head. So my sketches have become my goals drawn out rather than written out so much to do that.

I may be taking the topper off for a short bit too in order to get the spray in bed liner done. I am NOT looking forward to that. I may have to come up with something to make that task a hell of a lot easier for myself. At 329lbs for that added head room of a folding tent option. Its a hell of a job with 2-3 guys to sometimes manipulate back and forth. I'll have to get creative so I can manage on my own when no ones around to help.

Outside of that, I'll be excited to get that finally done so I can start on all the things needed for the bed to become completed. Meanwhile, I have to get materials in for the bed structure.
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  #92  
Old 03-03-2017, 02:24 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...



So after months of searching every avenue of the metal industry, not a single company makes a 1.125" or 1.250" hexagonal "tube" out of aluminum or stainless steel, or even carbon steel. PLENTY of hexagonal bar in sizes I didnt think possible let alone make sense and the task of making several of these in 3.00" long depth for what I am going to do would take forever and too costly to fabricate.

So in the interest of giving up in one aspect and the other of a different look and feel entirely for believe it or not less cost factors than hexagonal bar by the foot and far less weight added. I will still have a heat proof and trick exhaust setup in the making. I'll be giving up a little exhaust tone for a slightly quieter running the exhaust out to the back. The dump at the axle is cool but old and the drone in the cab is less than desired; I am not even going to bring up the factor of moderate stealth mode from a fair distance is so far out the window.. its not even on the chart of consent.

The functionality of a multi-carrier for me is a necessity and so Its a must that I am starting there first. The bumper build I have been designing for the 93/97 Rangers with the help of a partner whose helped in the design and builds of my first and now second design of off-road trailers should be a game changer, the few bumpers out there all look the same and the functionality is limited by that same design. I want something more and I am sure for what people are paying for less, something more for the $$$ is sure to catch a wave of customers.

Front bumpers have been on the planning board for a bit but I really need/want to make this dual swing out multi carrier first. I think the design plans and the couple of accessories I plan on building with and for the multi carrier in the later sense will bring a lot of smiles to a group of plentiful users in need of similar needs and or wants... We'll see
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  #93  
Old 03-12-2017, 07:05 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

So yet another episode of whats next..

I think I am going to put up for sale my other 4.0L OHC Engine that I was going to fully rebuild as a Super charged engine but now my heart and mind have another direction in the ways of a power plant.

After a bit of research, videos, and a passion for wanting more tq and better fuel MPG along with being able to actually use an extended 34 Gal tank for those long distance runs. I am bit and smitten by the 4BT Diesel swap.

http://www.cumminshub.com/4bt.html

Relatively easy to tune, no ECM needed, and I'm witnessing easily near same HP as my wanted Super charger in horsepower [260-300hp] and well over 550 Tq..

Yup, definitely going to need some axle upgrades among other things.



Love that Cummins chatter.. So a Fummins it shall be...!
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  #94  
Old 03-25-2017, 12:27 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

For the last month to five weeks now the alternator has been at a horrendous howling, obviously the bearing is or has gone to shit and despite the whimsical looks at the stop lights of people looking around trying to figure out WTF that noise is. I grew insanely tired of it finally. Apparently it wasn't going to fix itself. Well Dammnit.....

So as a temporary and future replacement Alternator goto, I decided that now wasn't the best time to throw $400 at the 250amp alt that I've been eying for the last 5 months and that for now and as I said as a future option to replace the 2nd 95 amp alt I carry as a replacement part later.

So sorry no pics of it or the install, perhaps someone will point it out in a future engine pic.. lol but I sourced a 96+ Ranger 4.0L with the 130 amp alternator option and replaced the alt in the parts store parking lot in 15 mins.. I hate having to come back for a core fee..

Much quieter, much better than the 95 amp unit and I saved myself $250 & some change for the moment... FOR the moment [sigh]
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  #95  
Old 04-16-2017, 02:39 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

Been busy but I have lots to update soon.. ! Standby....
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  #96  
Old 05-07-2017, 10:03 AM
AshJess AshJess is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

anxiously awaiting updates
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  #97  
Old 05-10-2017, 10:54 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AshJess View Post
anxiously awaiting updates
I know i know.. lol.. Been super swamped working on so many projects and the good lord only gave me 24 hrs in a day.. ughhh.. Best news is my oldest son is in town visiting me after 9 years and his Mother doing her best to keep him away.. So preoccupied on the home front until this Tuesday.. Then be back on it.
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  #98  
Old 06-29-2017, 02:48 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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So last week Saturday I was scheduled to go with a good sized group to the Pennsylvania Canyon, which is North of Las Vegas. It was supposed to be an all day run for the most part. nothing too technical or even difficult other than 110 +/- temps, beautiful views, and a promised good time.

Unfortunately about 3 days prior to, after running some errands I shut down the rig and happen to hear a hissing noise that I just knew was gonna be a bad thing. I Popped the hood and after some looking for the noise, that the seals around the plastic end tanks where the aluminum flanges fold over were leaking pressure & coolant. Noticing increasing temperatures on the static gauge inside, I was attributing it to just having the A/C on more and the higher temps.
Apparently with those leaks I'm won't be creating the right pressure needed to cool the vehicle efficiently so it was time to order a new radiator and just for good measure a new cap too. 20+ years on the stock unit & heavier uses, I think an upgrade is in order.

Now prior to this, we've installed a new reservoir tank from Ford, upgraded the T-stat to a 180 from Mishimoto instead of the stock 195 range, and have replaced the upper & lower hoses about 8 mos ago. I wanted to change them out to a silicone set from Continental but with a chance of doing a Diesel engine swap to a 4BTA, we figured stock is good enough for now. Not to mention the theme of the blue hoses just didn't really do it for me on this rig.



[Mishimoto radiators]



I got up early today and decided to drain the coolant without having to run the truck at all. Out comes the coolant drain pan.



Pulled the radiator cap off and the stock intake pipe. I always thought the radiator looked a little t h i n... even for a V6 truck; and although it works fine for the average persons use. It was in need of the upgrade.




First thing was draining the coolant out and rather than pull the lower hose and make a mess, we're gonna undo the pet**** in the radiator and let it drain at a more controlled rate.
I already knew the radiator was a little low on coolant from the last couple days of light travel and from not topping off the coolant after any use. I felt it was safe enough to take off the top hose and work my way down, next taking off the clutch fan from the engine, eventually making my way to the lower hose.




Once the fan clutch was loose, I could pull it and the fan shroud out at the same time.. Now I can pull the lower hose and grab this old unit out.



For those that may or may not have read my other post questioning this upgrade. I have opted for the near future to do the Volvo E-fan with the 2 speed fan setup out of the 92 Volvo 940 Turbo sedan/wagon.

So I've gone ahead and ordered a new fan shroud, the fan itself [which unlike the Ford Taurus E-fan swap option], I can replace just the fan and not the whole shroud & fan if I had to replace or service it in the future. Also needed to order the dual temp BMW sensor, an inline Mishimoto 38mm temperature sensor adapter, Volvo 2 speed fan relay module, and some wiring pigtails.. but some of the parts like the shroud are slow and old production use so it may be a month before that comes in. I'll be updating this build page when I do it though.

I am mostly interested in the ability to turn the fan off when doing water crossings and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't interested in seeing if there was a noticeable MPG change due to the change in parasitic loss being freed up. I know, I know.. I've read almost all the arguments of taxing the alternator more v. clutch fan efficiency.. blah blah blah. Only real way to find out the truth is to do it yourself and see the results.

Right off the get-go you can see the thickness difference between the old single row and the NEW double row.




In my haste I did neglect to take a few additional pics I meant to take but under initial installation of the new radiator I came across the fact that the fan shroud was now almost into the A/C compressor pulley and the tolerances were just way too much for me to leave it. So I had to cut some soft corners in the area of the A/C compressor and get that space back in case the engine rocks back and forth under load or spirited driving. I certainly didn't want to risk taking out the belt system or a fan shroud being chewed up under the hood.




After all said and done. We filled the radiator with Mishimoto's 50/50 mix, started up the truck checked for additional clearances, noises, leaks, and bled out the air in the system, and watched for any changes in the temp gauge.



And this is where I like to see her sitting at... We will see after a few runs if its necessary or worth adding any of Mishimoto's coolant additive that is meant to lower the coolant temps. I think for now we have a few days of high heat here and enough places to do some test runs and see if that would be worth it.


For now, onto some real upgrades coming in.


.
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  #99  
Old 07-05-2017, 03:21 AM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

Yesterday and today I spent most of the day removing the rest of the audio gear as far as amp rack and sub enclosure and remeasured available space in preparation to downsize and regroup some ideas as well as make better use of the real estate in the back of this OH-SO spacious single cab environment.

[So back to bare wall again]


The good thing is that a new Arc xdi audio amp will replace the current unit and the combination of adding additional components such as the hideaway module for a iCOM HAM radio that I still need to order and purchase, a Uniden CB radio, along with some creative venting and cross-flow fans will help keep that equipment cool(er), especially in this 110* + heat here in Nevada. I think the Midland 2-way radio I found will match the iCOM unit best as things seem slim pickings for both function and aesthetics too but isnt that always the problem?

So running antenna cables and rerouting power cable, RCA's, and adding new speaker cable is gonna be the chores for next week it seems.

[remember these?]


I'll also be re fabricating the back wall for a single Diamond Audio CM3D4, yea I know its old but they're good quality and I have 2 brand new ones in boxes I'm going to make use of finally as they've been sitting for some time now as part of a "OH lets start a project, oh wait changed my mind half way into it, I need to do this now" moment.

Will update as I progress. Right now, I am trying to figure out how in the hell, let alone where in the hell, I am going to stuff this oversized magnet structure in here while maximizing seating space. At 6' 2" I am in for a challenge. I have an idea but its going to be the most difficult for sure in this enclosure/rack design....

I have to get this done now simply to tie up all the loose ends and finalize the rear portion of the cab and be done with it and move forward within the project. I am still debating on doing a full window accordion boot as a pass through setup due to having all the extra heat from the bed/Flip-Pac area now mixing in with the quick to cool off standard cab area. I'm thinking that may be something farther in the future to consider now.


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  #100  
Old 07-13-2017, 09:06 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Took 3 days to myself, I needed a break. A break that included 2 days being 90 miles away, in the desert mountains, far from whats deemed as "CIVILization", which meant NO phone signal, NO WiFi, NO annoyances, and just good company, a couple of beers, nature and its views.. But before I went, the securing of a couple small annoyances of my own that have been haunting me to finish.., just been to busy with everyone else's needs and the last 3 days or so were a time out for me.

First things, the damn fire extinguisher. Some would laugh saying that it shouldn't be needed in the desert but deserts have wildlife fires too and accidents happen all the time, car fires, random small roadside fires can get out of hand quickly. At any rate, its been tossed in the truck when needed for trips, sometimes forgotten but it needed to be permanently stationed inside the truck at all times.., just in case

I knew with future plans it would have to be out of the way of a few other things and it would have to be readily accessible should the decision to use it or a need to use it arise. So I felt the best place was just inside the Flip-Pac shell back glass, quick within reach but not in the way.





Using some aluminum binding posts and sealing washers I carefully marked my spots and drilled through first with a smaller drill bit from the inside making sure it didn't catch on the carpeted interior, then chased back through the outside in with a larger drill bit to slide the aluminum sleeves in with just a bit of silicone around the shaft to seal out dirt or possible water intrusions.






They were perfect length for the cap and the bracket material depth for the mounting holes. This most recent road trip had quite the valley of spur roads and it held up great.




~~~~~~~~~~~

Next on the list.. My StreamLight Stinger LED HL charger. This is a two-time install because I will be adding to the outside of this with a stainless or titanium plate that will have a bottle opener attached to the outside later and I'll add that in at a later date.






So originally I messed up. I mistook and assumed that the back portion of the Flip-Pac had more strength than it did in the back walls that flanked the rear glass framework... [BUZZZZZ] Wrong !

So when I drilled it months ago it went right through the fiberglass shell..! I was a bit upset with myself so I used a 2" screw to hold it in tight enough that when the flashlight was in place, it didn't rattle around or pull out of its hole or leak water when it rained. Still dissatisfied, someday soon I would have to address the issue and with a better idea..

Because I am going to need to add to this later some space on the outside wall I am using 3.00" stainless steel pan head machine screws so I can attach some .25" aluminum spacers and a plate just big enough to mount my Yeti bottle opener I want..
I'm partially "badge-buying" here but at the same time the dimensions work for my base plate as I choke on the $19.99 tag for a damn bottle opener. Brownie points mehbe? No? FML...






Flashlight charger in place with flashlight..




Flashlight extra battery and powered up ready to go as always.





~~~~~~~~~

Last but not least.. the other USB charging flashlight I conveniently have mounted in my glove box was at the time quickly "Zip-tie Mechanic'd" in and rattled like a SOB on spur roads and I knew it would drive me nuts on a 90 mile run down on partial spur roads and corrugations. So this too would be remedied before the small trip.




Since I had 2 small holes drilled previously, this was gonna be a quick fix. I drilled out the two smaller holes to fit the new stainless hardware and ran the bolts through.





Once everything was tighten down USB power cable was reinstalled at both ends and the smaller LED StreamLight is securely seated in its home instead of flopping around anymore.



.
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  #101  
Old 07-20-2017, 09:57 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

This part of a smaller project is honestly about 70% complete despite looks and presentation. What is holding up the full completion is the permanent routing of the antenna which is actually a 0DB antenna that will be replaced by a 3DB gain Black Antenna rod from Laird, and which also will be routed through a waterproof connector through the third brake light since it cant be seen from behind anyway. The trim plate that will finish off the final look of the display. Outside of that it is completed and functional. The citizens band radio is a separate install and I'll be showing some of that below too..



So shipment comes in early instead of late for once and I couldn't wait to get started. My Midland MTX105 w/weather alerts and my Uniden CB CMX560. Now before I get started I know that this is not a "Classic" Cobra 29 CB radio nor an overly expensive 2 way radio I opted to for. However, there were some key features required for both units and quality is still there. First, this vehicle has a lot of additional wiring upgrades throughout and although I find COMM's to be important, these two items are 85% of the time going to be used in mostly close proximity or shorter ranges than say someone with a hobby of CB radios would find sub-par shy of the install.



Since the CB radio is more or less satisfying a requirement of both here for trail use as well as another group or two. Its primary use will be severely limited to those times. I do not really need a forward nor large display and the conveniences of having a hideaway unit and all of the features and controls in the face works well for my particular application. The hideaway unit will reside next to the future hideaway unit of the iCOM 5100 H.A.M. unit at a later date and is mounted back behind the seat for that reason. On top of that, generally the Samsung tablet used as the Audio/Topography mapping/entertainment/communication focal point also seems to put off a whitish light, it'll blend in perfectly.

I have a special cavity being used to fulfill not only a clean install but a very detailed and some may say elaborate setup. Also I needed a spot that's higher up inside as we all know, or some of us anyway. I am not exactly shy about water crossing that come to the top of my grill, yet this was a concern for my electronics being placed at what I think should be a safe level in the vehicle.


The two hideaway units, my audio amplifier, the my new layered subwoofer enclosure, and a mid-sized FirstAid kit all have a special mounting place behind the seats in this standard cab truck.



The 2 way unit had three requirements, it had to have the right size, compatibility needs, and colored display since it was going to be seen in a forward sense. It was going to have to match the white display for the iCOM 5100 which will be another future interesting installation.

Onto the install of the Midland...



The place for install is in the factory ashtray area simply because I don't smoke nor does anyone in my truck and the ashtray itself seems to collect things that rattle and make noise; a win/win. The 12 volt power plug will be reinstalled and used somewhere else at a later date.





Removal of these two 7mm or T15 screws removes the slide plate for the ashtray from the center stack giving the final results above and revealing the wiring sub harness for the cigarette lighter (Constant 12 volt outlet) and the ashtray light itself.



Fits just like I had hoped.



A little trigger happy with the camera, as I took the pic before I drilled in the third screw, I swear there are three screws in it to hold it up! lol



Now since I have a secondary fuse panel that resides in the drivers side rear speaker location that has a direct source of hot and ground from the battery power. We are going to not only use a 3 amp blade fuse in the fuse holder in place of the inline glass fuse but we are going to have to extend the wires anyway. I've cut right at the fuse holder to get as much of the original wiring as possible.





As with all my electronic installs, proper protection of the wires and the routing of those wires is key to a clean install along with soldering of all connections. In reality, doesn't matter if you solder, crimp, or twist and tape. As long as you do those process correctly you should have a relatively trouble free install and whichever method you prefer is your choice. I've done them all and they're all effective.



And the final product just before powering it up and before the trim plate looks good. Its got a great upwards angle to me as the driver and once the cover plate is on will look even better.



A decent night shot. Once I get a trim panel on it and the iCOM unit mounted I will have to definitely get a full shot of it all lit up.

Next or soon I will show the citizens band radio install along with the rear firewall setup.
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  #102  
Old 07-22-2017, 06:20 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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I’ve been trying to tie up some loose ends that I’ve just dealt with over the months and I had a few dollars burning a hole in my pocket and I really wanted to do something about the shovel I keep on hand in the Flip-Pac of the truck. Eventually it will migrate to the other side of the vehicle because of a major window modification I plan on doing to the passenger side of the Flip-Pac which will take the current sliding window out and with some slight cutting of some of the fiberglass shell. I will be able to massage in another window/aluminum door that will lift up like a lift gate to provide side access into the rear area.




So I stopped and picked up a pair of small “Quickfists” clamps. You can find them at many of the off-road shops but if your choices are limited. You can find a local dealer to you through http://www.endroad.com and see options and dealers near you. I used Quick Fist Part # 0010 for this install.




Also needed was a few extra parts, as usual stainless steel hardware, and nuts, although I got 0.25” washers, those were only zinc plated. The other "L" bracket aluminum hardware is left over parts from some solar panel installation parts I have on hand which come in handy as they are adjustable and multi-configuration capable.






Using the added hardware, I assembled them as so through my existing bracket work. When I switch to the other side I will check to see if I can mount them 180* and facing down to move the center of weight more closer to the bed of the truck. For now, they face upwards.





This should prevent the bolts from puling through the rubber Quick Fists themselves and hold things securely; certainly more so than a couple weak and now stretching out mini bungee cords.





And at the end, the results I got were satisfying and stronger as every once in a while you could hear that shovel smacking the top rail and it’s a bit nerve racking as you’re focused on everything on a trail to make sure nothing is going wrong or out of place.

As always, thanks for following along or looking...

.
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  #103  
Old 07-24-2017, 10:17 AM
jgardiner jgardiner is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

If you make the front mount a loop of some kind then you wouldn't have to crawl in to the box to undo it. You would only have to open the rear mount and slide the shovel out.
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  #104  
Old 07-24-2017, 04:05 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Undrstm8ed's 93' XLT Overlanding build...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgardiner View Post
If you make the front mount a loop of some kind then you wouldn't have to crawl in to the box to undo it. You would only have to open the rear mount and slide the shovel out.
Yea, just don't know how that would work.

Part of the problem I had is that the rear was secured, well enough anyway but the front would sometimes bounce around on rougher roads and I think in one of the first pics you can see where the shovel has done in some minor damage to the top rail from flopping around like an out of water fish.

I dont mind reaching in, it only gets pulled out for one of two things. digging out or latrine duties.. lol
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  #105  
Old 07-28-2017, 06:43 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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You're probably looking at that and asking.. "wtf?"

It will certainly be more in depth as I put it all together but this is a 12" x 12" x 4" weather proof electrical enclosure that will become the base camp for two BlueSea 12 circuit fuse boxes, almost 18 relays, a couple circuit breakers inside and the fascia will allow the mounting of a couple 12 volt plugs, extra switches, and an amp draw meter, and an emergency battery disconnect...

This will reside in the bed of the truck. Between this panel, the crank battery, the house batteries, and all the rewiring of aux features. I am hoping this piece will stand out a lot.

I've spoken a lot about some big changes for the bed work;
- Custom drawer w/locking
- ARB fridge slide out
- ARB on board air compressor
- Wall cavity for recovery gear with Fold up work table/First Aid kit
- AC/DC converter w/solar panel converter input
- Spare tire carrier battery storage
- Articulated re-wiring

I've been collecting a slew of parts as the entire bed is almost like a whole other separate project in its own in ways and really trying to put the time together to do whats needed. Right now I am waiting on a host of even more electrical components which truly in some ways have nickle and dime'd my wallet as if the wallet itself was used in skeet shooting [PULL!], a pair of flush mounted scene lights, the reworking of an aluminum under carriage storage box, costly Anderson plugs, and lets not even get into the cost of good wire.. I am really avoiding cutting any corners at all other than perhaps finding the best prices on specific components I prefer to use and that where the line draws in the sand.





As many have noticed, I try at least every week to add to this build page and showcase what I've done, and why, and be as informative as possible in my explanations and I have appreciated all of the comments, inbox questions, and those who follow my build and now with the addition of a super clean low mileage 2013 Nissan Xterra 4x4 in the garage that will be getting a Nissan Titan suspension and lift and still on the hunt for another Ranger extra cab 4x4 as well..? I am sure to have plenty of material to work with to show off.

I am even considering doing some video work to assist with that which is proving to be even more of a headache as its time consuming not only in recording material but editing is a nightmare for me right now.

So thanks for keeping subbed and interested..!
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+ 93' Ranger Overlanding Build
+ 94' Ranger Bed Overlanding Trailer Build
+ 12 North Industries ~ I Support

Last edited by Undrstm8ed; 07-28-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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