I wasn't intending to have a thread on my build because it's so common, but I figured that this might help a bit.

My truck is a 1988 Ford Ranger XLT long bed that was equipped with a 2.9L V6 and A4LD transmission. It has a lot of history, it was my dad's, and I have owned it for 7 years. The notorious head cracking happened to me around 98K miles, which I rebuilt the 2.9L with aftermarket heads, cammed, MAF conversion, the works. I planned a S/C swap, but changed my mind and decided 5.0L would be best.

Engine is a low performance 5.0L from a 1987 Grand Marquis with 120K miles. Transmission is an AOD from a 3.8L 1990 SuperCoupe.

This is it torn down:


The specs on the engine are:
.030" over forged pistons
Stock crankshaft (turned)
Stock rods with ARP rod bolts
GT40 heads
B303 Ford racing cam
1.6:1 Crane Roller Rockers
Weight and crank balanced
Duraspark dist with GM HEI module
Headman Headers
Dual plane polished high rise intake
Holley 600cfm vacuum secondary
150amp chrome alt, new ps pump, aluminum brackets
Aluminum under drive pulleys

Engine is pretty much "new."

Here are some build pics:






Finally:


Took some time, but engine eventually went in:




That's it for now, I will update more this weekend.

Pete

looks good so far this will be my next project for my 94.What mounts did you go with?

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94 Splash stock 3.0l with 5speed.3 inch drop beams in front with 13 inch Corba Brakes Explorer disk brake rear with Alburn locker 4:10 grears. Next step 5.0 v-8with 6 speed.

In process installing a 5cylinder Mercedes Benz deisel into a 1987 Ranger..

hey how much are heads i have just had my heads crack and it looks like its going to cost me 750 to replace them. got any ideas?

Thanks. I forgot to mention mounting, when I bought my headers used, they came with AA adapter plates. They are about $60 from Summit. The actual motor mounts I used were from a 1980 Bronco w/ 302. I tried using stock 2.9L mounts with 1/4" steel plate, but I ran into a problem with the header fitment that would take away from strength. The engine also sat up kind of high. '94 is a good year for the swap since it's still ECC-IV and it's an older truck. A lot of people are recommending drilling/slotting the factory cross member and using mounts from a Convertible Mustang, but switching them from side to side.

I paid $450 for mine off of Ebay, but the seller only had them for a short amount of time. That wasn't including top end gaskets and head bolts though. I would offer to sell you mine for pretty cheap (6 years old), but someone has been calling dibs on them for at least the past 6 months . Another option might be to go find a 2.9L Ranger or BII with factory upgraded heads. They are still prone to crack, but not as bad as the older ones. There is no specific year that these came on, there's a lot of assumption that 89+ had these heads, but is not the case. I think the later heads had square rocker mounts and a 10mm vs 8mm hole for the alternator bolt. I think 91-92 - good chance that it has the better heads. But also is a crap shoot, a lot of shops don't look for cracks where these heads typically crack. Make sure the cooling system is all in good working order before running again, just a slight overheating is what causes them to crack.

Pete

Been busy and got pre-occupied with another project, but some progress made. Most of all of this stuff has been done for some time now...

Core support, I cut out the bottom of it and use some angle iron to reattach it through some factory holes in the frame:

Before


After - Lots of test fitting and cutting


Angle Iron Pic


And heater box notch is needed - I had to notch quite a bit for these valve covers. I cut it with an angle grinder, block sanded it flat, cut a new piece out of sheet metal and fastened it into place. And yes, the blower still works.



What I've got done recently is the fan and shroud are installed:


Built a box for the ignition module:



Gotta keep it cool.


I also have divorced the NSS circuit and reverse light circuit from the 2.9L main harness. It plugs in like factory, but no pics. Only way I was able to know what was what is from a 1988 Ranger EVTM from Helm Inc.

More to come, lots already done.

Pete

how much space did you leave on the cooling fan for engine mount flex and fan blad flex that looks really close like to close dont want you K.O. a RAD. looks nice
here my truck with a 5.0
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/288444

It is awfully close, but the instructions said an inch clearance for it to work the best, and the adapter put it right about there. You have me thinking about that, I will definitely verify.

Thanks for the comments, really like your swap. Sorry to hear that your dog has bad hips, and that your truck for sale.

I should be finally firing it up this weekend hopefully, but still need a drive shaft. Missing quite a bit of updates on here.

Pete

Looking good, Pete! Great work.

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ɹǝʌo ǝɯ dılɟ

nice pics and looks good
im sure that the truck will have lots of power with the 5.0 engine

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GOING TO BUY a 2009 ford ranger sport 4X4 ..currently saving up enough money
debating on the colour (red, blue or black?)
updating once i buy my baby

oh so nice for a 5.0 swap. the hell with cali laws although it can be done; so long as it is the same year or newer. lol

Yeah but sucks for us '01 CALI Ranger owners.. cuz all we can put in is a 4.6L since the 5.Oh! stopped being produced a few years before!

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2001 Silver Ranger
Its got some mods.. check it out on my
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who told you that. the 5.0 where still produced in the 00-01 explorers. i actually have a o1 5.0 explorer engine. just have not made up my mine.

just make sure if your shaft is over 4 FT MAKE IT A 2 PIECE dont let ANYONE tell you diffrent it will BE WEAK and shake look at semi's and other trucks if its over 4 feet they make it 2 pieces with a carrier i made that mis stake and i paid for it. took out the yoke sleeve put a groove in the yoke and broke one u jount at the drag strip.. have fun

hoo thats right
mine is a one piece at 5 feet but went to a good drive line shop and the order me a no welded pipe its all on piece construction with laser balanced that it cost me $589 for a steal drive saft with yoke and ujoints this was cream of the crop the guys said.he said if this one brakes or shakes bring it in with the truck and they will fix it.... NEVER shook or broke so well wearth the money. but was 3-4 times the weight of the other one and 2-3 times thicker pipe then the other one drive shaft that broke. good luck have fun

ho ya use a shroud it will work the best in a shroud and not open then you can take it away from the rad. and still get the air flow through the rad. that what all the factory cars do must work and be cheap or they wouldnt do it..LOL