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  #16  
Old 08-31-2009, 07:13 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Originally Posted by rangerout View Post
ho ya use a shroud it will work the best in a shroud and not open then you can take it away from the rad. and still get the air flow through the rad. that what all the factory cars do must work and be cheap or they wouldnt do it..LOL
+1 on the shroud. I used one from a 4.0L with the 4.0L HD radiator I am using. After I installed, then picked up the fan. I really want to run an electric at some point, I just didn't have enough room to use a 16" I already had from when I had my 2.9L. I am either going to have to find a really slim one that can pull some CFM or upgrade to a later model FEAD. My FEAD is brand new now since I converted over to reverse rotation, so I went with the flex. Terrible planning on my part.

Good news is that I fired up the engine this weekend and got the cam broke in. It is a mean sounding son of a bitch! Great to hear something you've been working on for so long (1 year). Oil pressure and temp all look good, I do have one wiring quirk - I didn't think that the fuse box would be off when the key is on 'Start'. This is what triggers the relay for the ignition module and coil. It would fire when you stopped trying to start it, and I confirmed with a DMM. I wired the fuel pump relay trigger off of the run only circuit, so I temporarily aligator clipped this to the signal from the fuse box to the ignition module/coil. Just need to use that same trigger on the other relay, should take a half hour to correct including time to heat up the soldering iron.

Other than that, with my custom cluster and everything consdered with all of the wiring that I did, everything worked! I anticipated issues with the starter since I used a custom ebay aluminum inspection plate, but it turned right over! I was amazed to see the duraspark distributor and GM HEI ignition module working together.

What's left is to set my AOD transmission pressure/kick down and getting a drive shaft!

Here is the most recent pics, but there are more to come (running video):









New speakers while I was in there, too:


Pete
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  #17  
Old 08-31-2009, 09:50 AM
Jay FX4 Jay FX4 is offline
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I'm loving that gauge cluster, Pete!
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NOS for teh horse powaz!!!
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:50 PM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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I'm loving that gauge cluster, Pete!
Thanks! It isn't perfect, but I think it's OK for what little tools I made it with. Big thing is that it fits and holds the gauges securely. Didn't have to ruin anything, can go back to stock which was a big plus for me.
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  #19  
Old 09-01-2009, 11:51 PM
CALI-RANGER CALI-RANGER is offline
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Originally Posted by 2001FordRanger View Post
who told you that. the 5.0 where still produced in the 00-01 explorers. i actually have a o1 5.0 explorer engine. just have not made up my mine.

Oh yeah, i totally forgot about those.. I stand Corrected!
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  #20  
Old 09-07-2009, 09:17 AM
TS6034 TS6034 is offline
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I like the custom cluster too! How do those speedometers hook up? I thought about doing this with mine because the fuel gauge and tach gave me trouble...
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  #21  
Old 09-07-2009, 10:50 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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I like the custom cluster too! How do those speedometers hook up? I thought about doing this with mine because the fuel gauge and tach gave me trouble...
Man, your truck is freaking awesome.

I am not sure about how that works on a manual (some recommend using a vintage C4 cable?). I used a Lokar cut to length speedometer cable. The down fall is that it eliminated the speed sensor on my Auto, just had to swap the gear onto it from the vss and the end went right into the side of the transmission. Threaded right on the other end of the speedometer. Even the box that the cable came in was high quality, I thought that was pretty funny.

Lokar SP1502U - Lokar Speedometer Cables - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I sort of lucked out on the gauges, I would have used the stock cluster, but the guy I bought my heads off of slacked big time - like over a month before he shipped them after I paid. Ebay surprised me and sent a coupon that basically paid for the gauges. Used, but they work. Sometime in the late 80's they switched the ohms on the fuel level senders, these were used on a 85ish Stang, I was hoping it would be compatible since my truck was built in '87, but I was wrong. Not sure if I am going to try and change the sender in the tank, or just buy the other gauge that's compatible with what's there.

Pete
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2009, 06:12 PM
rangerout rangerout is offline
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yes, cluster is awesome man good work!!!!!!
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2009, 10:31 AM
jackson2dope jackson2dope is offline
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hey psychopete, your truck looks awesome so far, i have a question tho, is yours an extended cab? and if so what did u use for a driveshaft? im doin a similar swap and i want to use a one piece driveshaft but im not having much luck finding one long enough (67") good work on the truck, looks like that thing will fly!!
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  #24  
Old 11-13-2009, 09:23 AM
Psychopete Psychopete is offline
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Originally Posted by jackson2dope View Post
hey psychopete, your truck looks awesome so far, i have a question tho, is yours an extended cab? and if so what did u use for a driveshaft? im doin a similar swap and i want to use a one piece driveshaft but im not having much luck finding one long enough (67") good work on the truck, looks like that thing will fly!!
No, it's a standard cab w/ long bed. IIRC, my measurements were pretty similar from the flange on the rear to the seal on the transmission - Long beds have a longer wheel base. I had an A4LD and the yoke did not fit into the AOD. Sometimes I get frustrated trying to save money and I just took my old shaft to a drive line shop and had a brand new one made. It was a little under $300, but it fit right and the tube diameter was the same (fuel tank clearance).

They gave me a yoke to try to verify that it fit, and I had to measure the bolt holes on the flange. Then I gave them my measurement and they figured out the rest. Apparently someone has used one from a Econoline van, but I am not sure what year and if it had to be cut down. Getting one too long and cut down would definitely be cheaper than having one lengthened.

It is done for now and I have probably put only about 500 miles on it. I just bought an '88 Stang w/ 5.0L (EFI) and have been driving that lately. Getting cold, need to it out more often before it snows, but next summer should be a lot of fun. Wish I could have had it done earlier in the year.

Hope everything goes smoothly with your build!

Pete
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