egr Solenoid
 

hey guys ive been working on this truck for a while now and i cant get to fixing it.
1990 ford ranger 2.3L 5 speed

the problem is that my egr solenoid isnt opening i got a code for it and my check engine light comes on 5 minutes after turning the truck on every time once i turn it off it goes away then comes back on.

i know that my egr valve is working, i already took it off and cleaned it throughly and seems fine. i found out when i removed the vauum line to the solenoid that there was no vacuum when i accelerted the truck. so that lead me to the egr solenoid. there is vacuum comming to the solenoid but solenoid isnt opening. ive tested 3 other solenoids and the same thing.

now im wondering how the solenoid works?
im thinking that it has constant power and the ecm controls the ground by pulse width modulation...

i checked voltage and im getting constant 13-15v when running
i check ground im also getting same voltage which means i have no ground.
i also did a voltage drop on the solenoid and im not getting anything
i went ahead and checked on the ecm terminal and same thing 14v comming in when running...
meaning its not operating hence no ground. so the only thing left to say is that there is an open ground or a fault internally in the ecm...

can anyone give me any other option or any other info on what else to test?
i know egr operates at past 2000 rpms and when engine is at op. temperature.

thanks.

Re: egr Solenoid
 

Did you ever figure out why your solenoid was not getting a command from ECM? I have the exact same problem, I can apply ground to pin 33 of solenoid and the vacuum then flows through solenoid to EGR. I was hoping you might have additional info that fixed your problem. Thanks

Re: egr Solenoid
 

Haven't gotten a solution yet :/ sorry my only hope was to swap ECM and see if it'll work but idk actually when driving I dnt see much of a difference or bad driving... Seems to be driving fine. Just took it to smog test and it passed...wierd I also have no more check engine light on.

Re: egr Solenoid
 

I had missing and low power problems in 4th & 5th on the highway (93 2.3 5 spd).

I tried running the codes and it was hard to get a clear reading, or consistent from one try to another, but twice did get a code about the EGR solenoid and position sensor. After trying codes, it really started running bad. Would die when started cold, would idle really high for a short time when started warm, and would jerk in 2nd, 3rd & 4th like I was turning the key off and back on, altho the engine didn't die.

I cleaned the EGR, it had been stuck open a little. I also noticed no vacuum from the EGR solenoid.

After that unsatisfactory attempt at running codes, and it made it worse, I put on a used ecu so I could hopefully run the codes.

Without doing anything else, the engine now runs just fine. None of the above symptoms at all. Took it for a test drive of about 20 miles at varying speeds, then ran the codes when I got back. Good clear indication, all 3's (no problems).

So the ecu did it for me. I got mine used over ebay from an outfit in LA for about $50 if I remember. Picked one that had an exchange policy if it didn't work.

Re: egr Solenoid
 

Yea ive been meaning to get one too, I went to my local Junk yard, they wanted $40 for it with no returns or exchanges...didn't want to risk it...I still think im going to get one off eBay but the cheapest I found was $70... Anyways I upgraded to a 1999 Ranger 4cylinder 2.5l so my 1990 is going to be stored and used lightly while I get to fixing it I need the ecu although it runs fine it only misses lightly when first starting up nd a bit laggy...and also looking to changing clutch but I'm in no hurry :)

Re: egr Solenoid
 

I found out that the 2.3 engines require a changing of the fuel pressure regulator, it dumps to much fuel in causing the cat to clog up resulting in a loss of power. I owned a 93 and it did the same thing and I bought a 97 and after 10,000 miles the converter clogged up. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and gained the power back

Re: egr Solenoid
 

The above experience was just a start - ended up (based on codes) replacing the ECT, IAT, TPS, Crank position sensor, ignition module, and a rebuilt ecu. Cleaned the mass air sensor with the special cleaner. New primary coil. Coil wires, and the wires between the ICM and the coils checked OK. Pulled the ecu plug apart and cleaned all the little pins and checked a few other wires in that harness. Even replaced the PS pressure switch. Finally, no more codes, no driveability problems. Should be good for another hundred thou now!

On the fuel delivery side, I replaced the injectors and the pressure regulator.

When I tested the pressure, it was in the acceptable range but right at the bottom (if I recall that's 30 psi?)

Still idles a little high occasionally, but only about 1100. It used to be much worse than that, esp starting it warm. Now it's not absolutely perfect but perfectly driveable without any real problems.

Now for just a dab more power - - :(

Re: egr Solenoid
 

Have you checked the catalytic converter to see if it maybe stopped up? Have you been using Motorcraft plugs?