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-   3.0 Vulcan Tech (http://www.fordrangerforum.com/3-0-vulcan-tech/)
-   -   3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer (http://www.fordrangerforum.com/3-0-vulcan-tech/20183-3-0l-6-camshaft-synchronizer.html)

mfernandes 11-07-2010 08:00 AM

3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Well pals, to begin with, I want to give special thanks to RANGER01, he took the time and patience to call a Ford dealer there at Ohio, got me the Camshaft Synchronizer and shipped it to Uruguay!

Thank you so much pal!!!

Next week Ill be replacing it, I already have a new sensor too.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6838/sany1216.jpg

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/782/sany1217.jpg

Original Motorcraft CamSync., Part #F58Z - 12A362 - BA

The question is, my truck has only 143.000 kms (arround 87.000 miles);
I understand this is a part that causes many troubles in the Vulcan V6, but, can anybody tell me which is the main cause for this synchronizer to fail???

As Im installing a new one, I want it to last as much as possible!

Thanks a lot!!!

Fordzilla80 11-07-2010 09:07 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Here you go man. Click the link, and go to post #10.

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=40768

mfernandes 11-07-2010 09:40 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Thank you so much Fordzilla, this is a very usefull information.

This guy recommends changing the cam sync at 80K miles (130.000kms), mine has a little more, and it began to do the "noise" he describes.

Next week Ill change it, Ill try not to use the truck since then.

Also, Ill check it in 50K (80.000 kms) and repleace it once again in 100K (160.000 kms).

Thank you so much for this help bro! Really usefull info!!

P.S.: when I replace the cam sync. Ill take pictures of the original one, to see its condition

Fordzilla80 11-07-2010 10:33 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
No problem at all man.

Best of luck with the install!

Ranger_EDGE 11-07-2010 10:39 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
this in my to do list. i have 110,800 on my original. Well i think its the original. but anyways im going motorcraft also on my cam sync. not going to mess around with the cheep china parts on this one.

mfernandes 11-07-2010 10:51 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger_EDGE (Post 237917)
this in my to do list. i have 110,800 on my original. Well i think its the original. but anyways im going motorcraft also on my cam sync. not going to mess around with the cheep china parts on this one.

"made in china"???

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSdjODTrPbw[/YT]

At eBay theres an aftermarket cam sync, DORMAN brand, I dont know if its chinese, but nobady recommend those. Its been sayed they last 20K miles, its cheaper to go for the original Motorcraft... in the end you will save time and money.

Next week Ill post pictures of how the original cam syn came off...

EMB1230 11-07-2010 05:20 PM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Yes Dorman is the crap brand.

reapher 11-12-2010 10:12 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Mine began to fail and make a terrible squeak/chirp early this year and I replaced it with the motorcraft one. The new one is also beginning to chirp after only a few months. I just took it out and oiled the moving surfaces and while I was at it stuck a magnet down the hole where it goes and pulled out a few hard gritty pieces of oil/sludge maybe with metal shavings in it, I never did this when originally replacing the synchonizer. People say it is caused by the bearing in the shaft not getting oil and grinding on itself and eventually breaking, but I can imagine how those shavings of metal or whatever could contribute to damaging the shaft. Noise is gone for now, I'll post further results in a few days.

mfernandes 11-12-2010 10:44 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by reapher (Post 242333)
mine began to fail and make a terrible squeak/chirp early this year and i replaced it with the motorcraft one. The new one is also beginning to chirp after only a few months. I just took it out and oiled the moving surfaces and while i was at it stuck a magnet down the hole where it goes and pulled out a few hard gritty pieces of oil/sludge maybe with metal shavings in it, i never did this when originally replacing the synchonizer. People say it is caused by the bearing in the shaft not getting oil and grinding on itself and eventually breaking, but i can imagine how those shavings of metal or whatever could contribute to damaging the shaft. Noise is gone for now, i'll post further results in a few days.

very important info pal!!!

reapher 11-22-2010 01:52 PM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
500 miles later it started chirping again. I only ever notice this when hitting bumps so I'm thinking that it has to do with the vertical play between the shaft and housing (there is some on the Ford part, there is ALOT on the Dorman part... 5x the play). I had bought the Dorman part when the noise started coming back before my previous post but never put it in because it just feels like a lower quality part, not to mention fresh out of the plastic it had some dust bunny like stuff all in the top/sensor area who knows if any got between the shaft and housing :confused: So today I took my less than 1 yr old motorcraft synchronizer back out for oiling and did a much more thorough job of it. Last time I just used penetrating oil where the shaft meets the housing above that little washer/clip. Now I used 5W30 motor oil in the built in oiling hole and held it upside down and spun the shaft with a 5/16" hex key on a screw gun for a couple mins then cleaned out the sensor area with quick dry electronic cleaner. I also put 0.1qt extra motor oil in the engine to see if it will have any effect on oil reaching this part. Again noise is temporarily stopped and everything seems to be working as it should. That alignment tool is pretty useless, once you have the housing marked in line with the top of the engine, the rotor for the sensor should pretty closely line up with 1 of 6 notches or "corners" machined into the top of the housing, and being 1 tooth off throws it very obviously out of line. Just remember which notch or "opposite corner" you want to line with. If it lines up into the big cutout then you can use the tool to center it but otherwise it should be close enough to eye it out.

Lonncarr 11-26-2010 08:11 PM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Wil the Cam Sinc cause a lower end "tap"? I don't have a squeel, but at cold starts I have a lower end tap that goes away upon warm up.

mfernandes 11-27-2010 05:14 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lonncarr (Post 252724)
Wil the Cam Sinc cause a lower end "tap"? I don't have a squeel, but at cold starts I have a lower end tap that goes away upon warm up.

+1! me too!!!

mfernandes 12-03-2010 05:00 AM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Well... finaly I got my camshaft synchronizer changer yesterday!

ONCE AGAIN, SPECIAL THANKS TO "RANGER01", he was the one who send me the Cam. Sync.!!!!

The engine response changed totaly, and offcourse, that noise to which I was kindda familar... now is gone!!!

Here are some pictures of the original cam sync.

http://i.imgur.com/RnZIW.jpg?6550

http://i.imgur.com/Zh0j1.jpg?5127

Cam. Sync. "window"... totaly destroyed!!!
http://i.imgur.com/7Zy5v.jpg?2297

http://i.imgur.com/bCFoK.jpg?9876

The cam position sensor, inside: ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!!!
http://i.imgur.com/ldveQ.jpg?8590

As a result, the changes where inmediately;

totaly improved engine response, no more noises and offcourse: GOODBYE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT!!!

Fordzilla80 12-03-2010 12:43 PM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
Wow man, it's always a scary thing to see the damage on these cam syncs. Looks like your gear wasn't too bad thank god. Glad you were able to catch it before it got to the doomed stage.

ChitownRang96 12-22-2011 08:39 PM

Re: 3.0L V-6 Camshaft Synchronizer
 
New to this site. Proud owner of a 1996 3.0 Had to replace the Cam Synch today. The biggest problem was getting to it. Once unplugging a good deal of vacuum and electrical, we photographed its position, removed and put the new one in. Had to compensate the inner flange counter clockwise so that when it engaged the gears below, it went right where it needed to. I went with the motorcraft part and a OEM sensor.

Once everything was reinstalled, the truck fired right up. No more hesitation. Yeah!!! Thanks for the good advice here.


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