Dome Lights
Has anyone replaced the original dome lights with a different color such as blue lights?
Just kinda curious, thinking about doing that in mine. Thanks for any help or opinions!:) |
Re: Dome Lights
I actually just did this today. Got the lights off of ebay. They look pretty good, but I'm gonna see what they look like tonight when it's darker. I'll put up pictures in a couple minutes when I find batteries for my camera.
The lights are darker color than in this picture: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/membe...3-dscn1002.jpg |
Re: Dome Lights
I did mine with a 6000K 25 LED panel, and it looked sweet.
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http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/1...4314145774.jpg
I just inserted stage lighting covers into it lol. |
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I like the brighter lights a hella lot better. JP7 where do you get those lights?
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His setup looks similar to mine, but I only used 1 led panel. I got mine from superbrightleds.com.
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Re: Dome Lights
Thanks for all the help guys!
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I'm making a new dome light (soon- my next mod) by etching my own PCB boards and mounting my own LEDs to the board. Its going to be much brighter and a more flexible design. Example: Like this - http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/6553/1rawboardsrw9.jpg Heres a stack of raw boards... http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8156/2printernh1.jpg Your going to need a laser printer for this one... http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/1...tertrayeb8.jpg Open up a paper feed tray... http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/1...rloadedar7.jpg Load it with some glossy photo paper, staples #471861 works best, im using cheap wax coated paper. http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1...omputerbc0.jpg Make the design on your computer in B&W using photoshop, paint, or a free version of a board maker that will allow you to print your boards to scale. MAKE SURE TO PRINT IT MIRRORED! (Or else it would wind up backwards..) Set your printer to as dark as possible. http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/6299/6printedxa0.jpg Oh, look... all done! http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/4255/7sinkdt7.jpg Hop over to a sink, and get your boards and a scotchbrite pad. http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7...rubbingot8.jpg Scrub in a even pattern, i can get away with just one direction, but it helps the toner to adhere if you go widthwise and lengthwise to create a crosshatch pattern. http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5...crubbednd6.jpg All scrubbed up! http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6518/10rinsegd7.jpg Rinse it off, and this is what you get...MMMMmmmm..... http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/4715/11cleanmk9.jpg This is what you want to see... http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/2...otcleanhk1.jpg If you see any spots where the water wont stick to, hit them again until the board will hold a smooth sheet of water... http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8418/13dryfo2.jpg Wrap it in paper towels, and try not to touch it... http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/196/14dryedlg3.jpg Wipe it down throughly to get it nice and clean and dry... http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/4647/15lineupur6.jpg Take your dried board and your printed pattern and line them up... http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3...preheatfl5.jpg Im using a modified GBC HeatSeal H200 to get smooth even quick transfers. You would use a regular iorn set to MAX heat. Place the board and printed pattern on a phone book or something that wont trasfer heat, and press down decently hard and very slowly move the iorn around. On a bard this big, it would take you a good 5 mins to throughly heat it up. It might discolor slightly, thats fine. http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/9577/17insertwd5.jpg Yes, this thing is basically god when you make tons of different boards.... http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/7632/18run1ck2.jpg 40 sec later, and your thinking the $120 you spent on it is almost worth it... http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/1...pbackerwr1.jpg Im using double sided boards, so i need to cover the back so i dont waste a ton of time and money etching the large amount of copper on the backside... http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/6840/20pass3wh7.jpg mmmm... automation... http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1...armsinkvc1.jpg Ok, now MAKE SURE TO LET THE BOARDS AIR COOL... After 5 mins of cooling, take your cold boards and go back to the sink... http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9315/22fillupts2.jpg Fill it up a good bit with hot water, hotter is better, and you can use a little detergent if you want, i never do though... http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/1...letsoakpj5.jpg Let these babies soak for AT LEAST 30 mins, longer is fine too.. just make sure there is allways water in the thing and it dosent drain on you... http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9215/24soakedpb2.jpg 30 Mins later... http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2...ipedgeszw0.jpg Carefully rip the edges off... http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5...blayersrh4.jpg Applying medium pressure, rub the paper off about as far as you can easily do by using your fingers... http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/8...leanishgk1.jpg They should look like this... http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/8...thbrushjq7.jpg Crack out your old toothbrush, or get a new one, and rub away, you shouldt be able to hurt the toner... http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2...nboardslm1.jpg Rinse them off, and you get some nice looking boards... http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9...wipedryxk3.jpg Give them a light wipe off... http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/5452/32uhohih5.jpg OH NOES! THE BOARD IS TRASHED! AHHHHH!!! http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/1...sharpieue1.jpg If you have any bare spots, just use a black sharpie and touch them up, if you use the staples picture paper, you shouldnt have any of these... http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1377/34fixedgx2.jpg Ahhh.. Much better... http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/1290/35precutai9.jpg I like to precut my boards before i etch them so they fit into my smaller tank, and i have less etchant wasted... http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/2...enperoxoo2.jpg I use Pirana Etchant, 2 parts of Hydrogen Peroxide, and... http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/6...uriaticma9.jpg 1 part Muriatic acid... http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/1...ntainersp0.jpg Find a container the boards will fit in, and that you wont be needing to hold cheerios later on... http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9...rtsh202re7.jpg Pour in 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide... http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9...uriaticis0.jpg To 1 part Muriatic acid... Now, there will be some fumes given off by this, they surely arent good for you, you might want to do this outside, or in a well ventalated area... http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/3...oardsinat8.jpg Drop in your boards... http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/4...mixitupli2.jpg Stir them up a little for the duration of the etch to speed things up... http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/1720/43donesg3.jpg Take a peek every so often, and when you cant see any more pinkish copper, pull them out. This took about 3-4 mins. http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/9775/44rinsezu1.jpg Rinse them off... http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/5144/45cleanzo0.jpg Grab some Lacquer thinner... http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/2...ertowelzj0.jpg Dampen a paper towel with it http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/4142/47wipejl4.jpg Wipe them off with the dampened paper towel. http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/120/48doneqf5.jpg Oh, lookie.. The boards are done! http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/5397/49rinsene9.jpg Rinse them off and hit them with a green scrubber lightly to give you a good surface to solder to... http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1153/50voalaez9.jpg Populate the boards and solder... http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/7995/51detailoj8.jpg you can get decent detail with this method, i could have gotten better results if i had used the staples picture paper, but i dont need any beter than this when the led's are going to be connected by solder anyways... You can also use Ferric Chloride for the etchant, thats available at radio shack, but its hard to see whats going on due to its dark brown color. And you can hit the boards with scotchbrite to remove the toner, but some mineral spirits are much easier... |
Re: Dome Lights
That's one hell of a right up. Awesome job!
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Awesome work man! I love the detail on the PCB. I have made boards with the black sticky tape and even the transfer paper years ago. I think the photo sensitive boards are better though. basically do waht you did with the paper them tape to board and put under UV light, then the etch process.
I am sure the photo coated PCBs are more expensive though. nice work |
Re: Dome Lights
i went to superbrightleds.com and idk which lights to get for my 2002 edge...i want to replace the lights in my dome light and hopefully the ones in my instrument cluster and steering wheel
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