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Old 05-08-2018, 07:37 AM
robbysmith334 robbysmith334 is offline
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Join Date: May 2018
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Default Engine swap

I have a 2001 4.0 with 270,000 miles on it and I was thinking it might be nearing that time to find a new engine but I want a little more power can anyone tell me what engine I should put in that would be on the cheaper side and get me more power

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Old 05-22-2018, 04:15 PM
Danny74 Danny74 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 78
Default Re: Engine swap

Well the 4.0 v6 is the most powerful engine option available from the factory. No other larger engine swap is going to be cheap, so you're stuck with that. If you only want a little bit more power try just rebuilding the 4 liter engine that you have now.. Because any Engine with that many miles on it I'm sure has lost power over the years from how it was being brand new. After that you could try small add-ons. Maybe before you do the rebuild you can contact Knights turbos down in Florida, and see about rebuilding it to Specs for use with a turbo or supercharger attached to it. That would definitely give you a lot more power. However again that's still not going to be cheap. I think the cheapest option would be to find a low mileage 4 L that has less than let's say 70 or 80 thousand miles on it and you could swap that right into your truck for just a little bit more power. Along with cold air intake , larger free-flowing exhaust and headers, I think you'll notice a difference.

'92 Supercab XLT 4.0L V6 Auto 4x4
[My new vehicle]
'95 Supercab XLT 3.0L V6 Auto 2x4
[Brothers vehicle]

Last edited by Danny74; 05-22-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:34 AM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,496
Default Re: Engine swap

I'll Stir the pot.. lol

At stock 207Hp 5250rpms, 238ft lbs Tq 3000rpms, what are you wanting?

I'm curious as to whats "MOARRR POWER" ...? What are you using it for? How much faster do you need to get to the next red light and wait?

You want to feel all the power you do have, put that truck on a diet. Get rid of the 12 behind the seat, that tool box, eject the spare tire and tool kit including the bottle jack...

TQ is what gets you down the street, and HP is how far down the street it will take you.

Mechanical forced induction - S/C will net you 40-60hp, Turbo kit, minimum 80hp to 120hp, Full internals and major tuning 250hp+

Liquid Forced Induction - NOS 55-75hp Single stage: Dry, 75-150hp 2-stage: Wet

Starting at $520 - $6k

Cold air intake, WASTE of money unless you're planning 3 digit speeds majority of the time (?) K&N style OIL/DRY Cotton filter in the OEM box would be your best overall; even without the infamous joke of an Airbox mod everyone does. Why you'd swap making ait more noise from the engine bay in exchange for a "cooler" source of airflow; rather sucking up hot under hood air from a vehicle already known to run hotter than some others anyway behooves me as to what logical source was used? Not to mention without being "tuned" in the sense of manipulating the A/F ratio, timing, spark advance or retardation you'll likely cost your self more HP loss than gain. And unless the average Joe Schmoe Ranger owners can show me full video and data witnessed 3rd gear dyno pulls showing contrary, You wont be seeing anywhere near 9-20hp increases.

Headers, and type would increase some flow and benefit where the power band moves. An exhaust certainly would uncork it as well with the added airflow of whatever NON OEM paper air filter was used but lets face facts. EVEN a fresh engine and the majority of bolt on performance parts, if you used all the right ones and on a perfect day all things considered you netted 22-37hp which I'm being conservative but hopeful.. I'd be a bit surprised if you saw better than or close to the top end of that without the addition of forced induction. I havent even elaborated on the time or cost values yet.

5.0L swap..? Again more headache than its worth for 15hp

Comparison wise, 2015 Toyota Taco's are at 236hp/5200rpms and 266tq/4000 rpms. 2014 Nissan Frontiers are 261hp 5600 rpm and 281ft lbs tq 4000.

All the hp ratings are at or near 5350RPMs and your truck has better Tq down low than the other two popular trucks.

So again, I ask what are you wanting? Cause to me, no offense but it sounds to me like you're in the wrong vehicle altogether. Not saying that there isnt room for some improvement in ANYthing but putting facts on the table, don't let the numbers fool you. All the trucks at specific tasks or speeds are not really even seconds apart in 0-60 or 1/4 mile times.

And just to throw it out there.. despite being nailed to a cross for it. The 3.9L Cummins 4cyl Diesel engine has a max of 130hp and over 330ft lbs of tq as low as 1400Rpms (stock). At those numbers it won't move all that fast but coupled with the right tires and gearing, point it up any hill or rocky terrain. but plenty of guys, in Rangers even, 250hp and over 500ft lbs of tq still out there loaded with Cummins 4BTA's....

but if you had to dream.. stuff a Coyote engine in there.., likely nothing else will be much worth the effort or cost...
"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

- 93' Ranger, Overland Build thread - 12 North Industries
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