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  #11626  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:43 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

1995, 2wd if that matters, 5sp if that matters, 4.0 if that matters. the wires have already been re-ran before, hence the switch I posted a few posts back...But it is impossible to retrace those wires because they've been spliced like every 10 inchest with different color/types of wires. Like the red wire you see coming off the switch turns into clearish brown wire, then into clearish blue wire and thats where I stopped tracing it. I basically need to know where the path that the wires take.

Comming out of the headlight housing is ok...where do they go from there though? And can I take whatever they hook into and run a wire from that to my new switch, then a wire from the switch to the battery with a fuse holder in it? or do I need to ground it somewhere or splice into something else?
  #11627  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:48 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Ok so you have the little knob left side dash under the vent thats the factory headlights/dimmer switch
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
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  #11628  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:51 AM
PhunkyMunky PhunkyMunky is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

I'd say bang the front end into a rock, take all wires out and with the insurance money get all new wires, headlamps, and a hammer to knock the dents back out....
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2000 Ranger Etx cab XLT 4.0L Auto trans. Currently I've got my 60/40 cut down into buckets, and a cheap walmart console to fill the gap. Working on gathering parts, paint, vynals, and such for the rest of the build LOL. I use this as an everyday truck, but it's also the only truck I have for hunting and general off road fun. Hoping to make it much better than stock!
PNW Crew!!
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  #11629  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:51 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesturbo94 View Post
Ok so you have the little knob left side dash under the vent thats the factory headlights/dimmer switch
yes, but that only works for my corner lights, tag lights, and dash lights...this is the switch that controlled my headlights. (brights are still controlled by the stick on the collumn)

  #11630  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:53 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

If so I would try and replace that I know your lights were ran off a toggle before but it could be because that switch went out and so they completely bypassed it, next the wiring to the lights does it look factory in the engine bay or does it look like they cut factory harness to run new wire to the plugs?
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
PNW Crew
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  #11631  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:53 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhunkyMunky View Post
I'd say bang the front end into a rock, take all wires out and with the insurance money get all new wires, headlamps, and a hammer to knock the dents back out....
That would require me getting full coverage insurance, then doing something that would raise my insurance rates through the roof... Id rather just fix the headlights, save for a new DD and gut this fucking ranger and rerun every single fucking wire after I put a 302 in it.
  #11632  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:54 AM
Ranger Sport Ranger Sport is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

What troubles me is that the fuse didn't do its job and the switch burnt...
  #11633  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:56 AM
PhunkyMunky PhunkyMunky is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
That would require me getting full coverage insurance, then doing something that would raise my insurance rates through the roof... Id rather just fix the headlights, save for a new DD and gut this fucking ranger and rerun every single fucking wire after I put a 302 in it.
Yeah, that would hold things up a bit. Not to mention doing such a thing right after GETTING full coverage insurance might look a little suspicious. I'd say stick with the easier part LOL.
__________________
2000 Ranger Etx cab XLT 4.0L Auto trans. Currently I've got my 60/40 cut down into buckets, and a cheap walmart console to fill the gap. Working on gathering parts, paint, vynals, and such for the rest of the build LOL. I use this as an everyday truck, but it's also the only truck I have for hunting and general off road fun. Hoping to make it much better than stock!
PNW Crew!!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3865172
  #11634  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:58 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesturbo94 View Post
If so I would try and replace that I know your lights were ran off a toggle before but it could be because that switch went out and so they completely bypassed it, next the wiring to the lights does it look factory in the engine bay or does it look like they cut factory harness to run new wire to the plugs?
The wires going into the back of the headlights looks factory, but they are only exposed for about 8inches before they are wrapped up in those little wire cover things. Everything is so tangled under there, trying to trace them, I ran into 3 wires that were exposed and not running to anything...Its a freaking mess...They are projector headlights, if that matters.
  #11635  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:59 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

As far as wiring the lights a hot from the battery should have the fuse before the switch then from the switch run it to the drivers side head light wire that runs the low beam then from there use a jumper wire to connect to the same low beam wire on the passenger side if the high beams work off the factory colum switch that means part of the factory harness is still connect properly there for there should be no need for a ground. Also you want to make sure your new switch is heavy duty enough to run power straight threw so you don't melt the insides of the switch
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
PNW Crew
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  #11636  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:00 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger Sport View Post
What troubles me is that the fuse didn't do its job and the switch burnt...
the switch says 12v20a and the fuse is 40a....think that had something to do with the fuse not doing its job...but I dont know shit about wiring.
  #11637  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:03 AM
Coleosis Coleosis is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesturbo94 View Post
As far as wiring the lights a hot from the battery should have the fuse before the switch then from the switch run it to the drivers side head light wire that runs the low beam then from there use a jumper wire to connect to the same low beam wire on the passenger side if the high beams work off the factory colum switch that means part of the factory harness is still connect properly there for there should be no need for a ground. Also you want to make sure your new switch is heavy duty enough to run power straight threw so you don't melt the insides of the switch
The new switch is 30A and the new fusebox and fuse is 30A What you said sounds easy enough...Think Imma try it with a few feet of wire and keep the switch under the hood, then if it works, rerun the wire through the firewall and put the switch back where the old one was. Thanks a lot man....any idea which wire is the lowbeam? and can I just splice into it right behind the headlights? (leaving enough wire to correct any mistakes of course)
  #11638  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:03 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

What gets me is that your high beams work off the factory wiring and all your other lights work off the factory dimmer switch so i would start there and plug a new one in if works great your done no more toggle if not take the new dimmer back and get your money back no harm no foul, or just get one out of a junk yard truck if u have that option
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
PNW Crew
AC
  #11639  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:07 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Well if it's the factory bulb setup there should be 3wires hi/lo/ground and I would get the connectors that pinch over the wire Lil blue ones you can get at the parts store that way there's no cutting needed and if it's not the right wire you can just unclip it Id post a pic if I had one
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
PNW Crew
AC
  #11640  
Old 05-29-2010, 02:10 AM
mikesturbo94 mikesturbo94 is offline
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Default Re: FRF Afterhours

Hahah holy shit what you know I found one lol these Lil guys no cutting need
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2008 ford escape xlt 3.0 v6 4x4

94 xlt 5spd longbed,
Was a built 2.3 turbo currently no motor or trans
5.0 swap coming soon
6/5 drop with dream beams,8.8 373 posi,17x9 wheels,swp seats,8k hids, autometer guages, Wideband o2, shiftlight, illusive trans x-member, 01-04 4x4 front bumper
PNW Crew
AC
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