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  #1  
Old 10-06-2009, 04:35 PM
ranger in texas ranger in texas is offline
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Default looking to lower a 88 ranger

i trying to find out what will be the way to go to drop my truck it is a 88 ranger single cab 2.9l with a 5 speed trying to finde out what will be the best way to go on it

Last edited by ranger in texas; 10-08-2009 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:03 PM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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Up front, DJM dream beams, there are other drop beams out there, but the DJM beams have been proven to be the best.

DJM 3" Drop Beams

Out back, flip kit.

DJM 4" Flip Kit

DJM sells the complete kit, but I can only find it for '89 and up.

That will get you 3/4" drop, which is pretty low on an '88, but, if you want to go lower, there's the 5/7" option, which adds:

Front, 2" drop coils.

BellTech 2" Drop coils

Rear, Hanger flip.

Hanger flip on RPS

Note that in that last link, he cuts his front coils to achieve a 2" drop up front. While this works, I don't recommend it, unless you are broke, in which case, just be careful not to cut off too much.


Hope this helps, any other questions, ask away.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:56 PM
ranger in texas ranger in texas is offline
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what will i have to do to the drive shaft and which is better dropping or bag's?
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:09 PM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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You won't have to do anything to the drive shaft, until you get ground scraping low. At that point, you'll either need to notch the cab floor to clear the drive shaft, or get a two piece so it'll "bend" in the middle to clear the cab floor. But by that time, you'll have had to cut out the bed to clear the rear axle.

If your truck is a daily driver, or if you plan on using your bed, static drop is better than bags, simply because there is less to go wrong, and with bagging, you basically lose most of the use of the bed. If you just want to drag the ground, and the truck won't ever do any work, then bags are for you.

Me, I use my truck, have a behind the pan class 3 receiver hitch, and overload air bags to help with load carrying capacity and trailer pulling. I regularly load the bed full of engines, parts, and other random stuff, so I'm not gonna bag mine. Mine is still a truck.
maybe someday after I retire this truck from daily use, I might bag it, but only when I don't have to drive it 80 miles round trip to work.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:04 AM
ranger in texas ranger in texas is offline
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do you know where i can find a two piece drive shaft i just use the truck to get around i dont put nothing on the bed
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:47 PM
ranger in texas ranger in texas is offline
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do i have to buy i beams or can i use the stock ones?
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:19 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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The beam lower you 3" and allow for more camber adjustment.

You can use the stock beams, but you won't be able to align the truck for more than a 2" drop.
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:25 AM
smakes smakes is offline
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yea beams are the best way to go and a flipkit for a 3/4
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:16 PM
rngrontherocks rngrontherocks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnbaum13 View Post
The beam lower you 3" and allow for more camber adjustment.

You can use the stock beams, but you won't be able to align the truck for more than a 2" drop.
+1

I kept my stock drive shaft when I bagged mine and just cut the notch out of the floor, it's very small and you don't notice it. I have heard many horror storys about the two peice drive shaft but I have never owned one.
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:17 PM
ranger in texas ranger in texas is offline
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i looking for a kit to bag it where is the best place to look
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:50 AM
smakes smakes is offline
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lol leave it static, bagging is way more complicated and is gonna cost a ton more
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:15 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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Cost really isn't that bad to bag it. It's all the other stuff that comes along with bagging that costs so much.

While THIS isn't my favorite suspension setup, it does work, is bolt on, and only cost $1700 for the rear.

Spend a few more grand and you can have the whole thing bagged with all the compressors and tanks and switches. And then to really use it, cut the bed, front fenders, notch the rear frame, z the front frame, etc. NOW its starting to get expensive.
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:02 AM
smakes smakes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnbaum13 View Post
Cost really isn't that bad to bag it. It's all the other stuff that comes along with bagging that costs so much.

While THIS isn't my favorite suspension setup, it does work, is bolt on, and only cost $1700 for the rear.

Spend a few more grand and you can have the whole thing bagged with all the compressors and tanks and switches. And then to really use it, cut the bed, front fenders, notch the rear frame, z the front frame, etc. NOW its starting to get expensive.
exactly, a 3/5 kit is like 400 bucks when itll cost you almost that much just for bags alone
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:10 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smakes View Post
exactly, a 3/5 kit is like 400 bucks when itll cost you almost that much just for bags alone
$389.99+shipping.
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