lowered but not bagged thats too expensive

Lowering springs cost anywhere from $50-$200, but don't buy the cheap ones or you'll most likely be buying a POS. It all depends on the type of rims you want. Rims range anywhere from $400-$2000, but remember, you get what you pay for...

Kinda defeats the purpose of getting a truck in the first place doesn't it? When you lower it, your load capacity will be dramatically reduced. You won't be able to tow much either.

To lower your car it all depends whether your gonna want coilovers or springs and struts, if your looking to go extremely low i would suggest coilovers which could run you almost 1000$(average cost for good quality)
or if your gonna go not so low springs and struts could run you about half of that. for rims well that could range from 600$ to 3000$ all depends on the finish,size ect. also keep in mind tire cost. heres a link that can maybe help you out http://www.myhotranger.com/Suspension/Suspension-Systems/ good luck

used 5 grand

wow. im surprised no one has asked you what year...

year on a ranger doesn't change anything pricewise. you can drop a 3/5 drop for $400
drop springs up front and a flip kit in back or a shackel drop in back. with new shocks $400 will cover it all. as for rims look for mustang rims you can get a good deal on them

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98 4.0 2wd-----supercharger fully build heads cam...all show with go......3 time world of wheels champ 5 time national winner


lots of ranger parts for sale leftovers from my 94/96
96 sitting on the frame, waiting to go lower


custom billet parts by me intake adapters and billet steps for the step sides

please sign my guestbook!!
http://breyperformancemachine.shutterfly.com/

That is true, but if he has a ford ranger edge it is a lot cheaper cause all he would have to do is remove the torsion bars, and remove the axle blocks, and it would be a lot lower.

If he had a edge that's about as low as he could go with out major modifications

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year is a factor, it could be i-beams, coil springs or torsion bars up front. what year, and trim is the truck. what kinda of rim/tire do you want as this will be a factor too. do you wanna run a low profile tire or do you still want some meat on em? after we figure that out we will discuss how low you wanna go and price.

Not Really.

Unless your purpose for getting a truck is , hauling and towing.

But at the same time there are ways of getting super low and still having great load capacity and hauling capabilities.

AIR BAGS.

No body in here mentioned BAGS yet.

You can get a clean simple Bag set up done for anywhere from $1000-$2000

Unless you want to go with a cheesy Bolt on kit with a Bolt on notch and link mounts.

But I'm all about Custom Fabrication.

I have a 92 Single cab

On I Beams, which kinda sucks for air bags, but whatever.

Ideally to get Really low with an I beam Truck

You woulod want to cut off the frame from the firewall forward and clip it with a Toyota Sub Frame, or build a custom tubular frame with Mustang II IFS up front.

I have A custom bag set up on the I Beams, which is cool.

But,

I have the rear 4 linked and bagged, and the front cant get as low as the rear when it's all the way aired out, cuz the Beames cross undr the oil pan and only let you go so low.

So all the way aired out, the front sits up higher than the rear.

I'm tuckin lug nutz in the rear, not so much up front.

How do I even out the stance???

BODY DROP.

I'm channelling the frame and raising the floor a bit.

I pulled everything off, the bed, doors, hood and fenders, soon the cab.

I'm putiing a peice of 2x3 box tube inside my frame under the cab.

Welding it in to the inside of the bottom of the frame.

Cutting off a few inches off the top of the frame, down to the top of the 2x3 tubing.

Then plating everything in and boxing the frame.

Relocating body mounts.

Bulding a custom core suport up front.

Completely cutting out the floor in the cab and bulding a frame for the floor out of 1x1 square tubing wich I will plug weld sheet metal to.

I will need to cut and notch the firewall, and build a new tranny and driveshaft tunnel in the floor.

Possibly shorten the pedal assembly and mess with linkages and steering components on the engine side of the firewall.

The engine will stick up past the hood, so a cowl hood or other custom style hood will be needed for engine clearance.

Once the cab is done and locked down on the frame, it's time for the bed.

All the inside sheetmetal goes.

And a 1x1 frame is built to hold the bedsides and tailgate skin

as well as to connect sheetmetal too.

Custom body mounts need to be built.

Custom Fuel Cell

Mount and route Airlines and brake lines

Mount and wire Air Valves, Tank, compressors/or nitrogen bottle

Etc.

Any Questions???

were gonna need more info. if you do wanna bag your truck drop me a line a have a kit for sale

I know for my 98, it would be around $700 from stylintrucks. That is a 4/5 drop with coils and control arms up front and a flip kit in the back. That price also includes Toxic Shocks. As far as wheels and tires, just depends what brand and style. I understand about you not having enough money for bags. Same here. Maybe some day, but a static drop will work for now. Good luck.

some of us like to haul things other than cargo... butt! But you can get air ride suspension that is not specifically for laying frame, but just helper suspension for hauling and towing.

if you look for deals you can lower a ranger for less than that easy, and as far as hauling stuff, iv had my truck loaded with stuff and it made it fine. i have some 60$ air shocks in the rear and they do the job pretty well- with no air in the shocks the frame sits on the axle, with air in them (not exceding max psi) i can haul a 4wheeler with no problems.

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drive it like you rented it!

The guy I use to work for Has a 4 door Chevy dually.

BAGGED, and Body Dropped 4 inches.

And he pulls enclosed trailers with other trucks inside.

Bagging or body dropping your truck does NOT eliminate towing or hauling capabilities AT ALL.

You just have to set it up right.