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  #1  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:21 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Body Lift 3 Tech Info Extravaganza

DISCLAIMER: FordRangerForum.com, this site, Redneckstone and it's administration are not liable for anything that may occur as a result of someone who reads or follows any steps in this How-To. Proceed at your own peril. The reader assumes all responsibility for consequences that may occur by performing this modification.


Thank you legal Dept..




Ok Welcome to Body Lift 3” 101…



We are going to Discuss 98+ trucks at the moment. Sorry 97(down) I’ll get to you later…

RULE #1 – Read INSTRUCTIONS… PA (performance accessories) has great instructions but they do lack some info which will be discussed here…

98-00 Instructions Click me!

01-08 Instructions Click me!


STOP


If you didn’t Read any of those links I just posted.. DO IT NOW… please and thanks..

_________________


Ok onward


You want to Purchase a body lift, good job you have a few choices.. (Summits Pictures are not kit specific!!!)


STOP


Read --> here is PA kits and Summit Kit. The Summit Kit is listed as 98-00 it will work on all 98+ trucks. Also a 98-00 Kit will work on 01-08 trucks only thing missing is parking brake extension which isn’t needed..




98-00 Performance Accessories 3” kit Click me!



01-08 Performance Accessories 3” kit Click me!



98-08 SummitRacing 3” kit Click me!



Shifter EXTENTION MANUAL TRANS Click me!



^^^^^ Needed with ANY manual trans truck!!!!!!!!!!!!

****Manual T-case guys sorry your SOL on extension needs to be custom****



_________________



Ok Time to talk TIPS and how to aid in doing a body lift so you don’t kill yourself.

Rule #2 BUY PROPER TOOLS… or good friend with some.. lol….


_________________


Ok in no specific order.



- With the main Body mounts you MUST HEAT THE BOLTS. A “MAP” gas torch you can buy will work just fine. HEAT threw the round hole in the bottom of the bushing. Heat it till you smell burning rubber and its GOOD AND HOT. Then IMPACT out with an impact gun. (hole in bushing shown here below), Reason for heating is the bolts have Loctite on them from the factory. Otherwise the bushing will spin and that causes all kind of problems






























- Ok on the LOWER radiator Drop bracket, part of the Rad support protrudes and is in the way of the bracket. Best thing to do is bend the bracket in a little to help with installing the bracket and keeping it straight. (picture below)










































- Next (not all have) trucks equipped with Evap Line(located by steering shaft), after body lift install make sure line is still attached. Some people lengthen the line. My easy cheap way is just to detach it from both holders on the frame and run it on the TOP SIDE of the Brake line shield, slightly re-bending it up. (picture shown below)




























- If you are having problems with the Front body mount coming loose, take off the nut first (#1 in photo below), Then try and impact out the bolt (#5 in photo below), if the bushing washer on top is spinning and bolt is not coming out, (#3 shown in photo below, also in photo 2 just below body lift puck), have a friend sit on top of the Rad support right over the bushing to apply more pressure to it. Normally is enough to allow bushing to stop spinning. This is the bushing that has to be drilled out with Bit.

If the sit on the radiator support doesn't work. Lift the body away from the washer. Head down into the bushing washer from the top get it good and hot. Now you have two options lower the truck and is the weight to hold it. And or use large channel locks to hold the washer




























- Engine bay Ground extension, 98% of the time you get a socket on that upper nut and the whole stud spins. Use a drive impact to remove nut. There will be a nut behind it, tighten that nut. Then install new bracket, problem solved.
























- When Raising the Body, have someone in the engine bay keeping an eye on all lines to make sure nothing is too tight.



- If you have a SOHC 4.0L 2001+ truck after body is lifted FIX THE A/C HOSE that’s infront by the pullies or it WILL GET sliced by the belt and you are out a $100+ line.



- After body is lifted IF AUTOMATIC make sure gear selector cable isn’t to tight. Remove from clip on body behind steering extension if needed




- Before installing FRONT BUMPER BRACKETS helpful tip Paint front side of the bracket with Black paint being it will be visible from the front and looks like crap.




- Rear bumper brackets. Most the time they do not fit right little tip before installing on the bumper use large hammer or large adjustable wrench and flare them out more.




- Northern trucks applying Heat to the J-clips in frame for Bed bolts will help with taking them out and not breaking them. WARNING becareful of the one by the gas tank, usually you can not safely get a torch in there.




- After 1 week or 500 miles go back and retighten EVERY BODY BOLT and BED BOLT. Will guarantee they will loosen up some, if your having trouble with body bushing spinning reheat to tighten.




- If 4 wheel ABS move front ABS wire on back side of bushing after install keeps it out of the way. (picture below)



























- Remember to loosen the Radiator before lifting the body take it out of the lower mounts so its free.




- REMOVE battery cables from battery BEFORE LIFTING the body. Both cables might need to be loosen at hold down clips to give them more slack.




- Put some Anti seize on the steering extension both sides because its alum going into a steel part incase you ever have to remove it again.




- CHECK FILLER/VENT Extensions BEFORE doing lift. There is a few different size’s there is usually never the right size in the box, you might have to go out and get the right size pipe to extend either one before starting!!!!!




- Shane took some nice pics that are labeled if you would like to look… Click me!




- If stock Exhaust and can not afford to replace it right away. Take Sawall to the tail pipe right AFTER the last hanger after the axle. It will hide it enough so it doesn’t bother you will you get it replaced




- Need T55 socket for bed bolts, buy a few they like to break…




- No need to buy PA Gap Guards you can make your own like so….



Quote:
Go to homedepot and get some stair runner material gonna cost you like $20 max..

the stuff i got was to wide so i sliced it inhalf and put it on.. using self tapping sheet screws into the pinch weld seam.. just dont put a screw in a spot weld..

use the BACK SIDE of the rubber the not ribbed side...







here the truck





- No need to Weld in Crush blocks some Black RTV placed on the Crush block place it between the bed and frame and tighten down it will Crush it in place.




- Make sure you have enough Nuts and Bolts. Had a few times, its missing 2 Nylon Nuts for the Front bumper brackets, and have to run out and get them before we can install the front bumper.




- Remove Manual Shifter BEFORE lifting cab leave off till cab is lifted.




Everyone please be safe and don’t hurt yourselves use jack stands when needed. And keep out of harms way. Have fun enjoy and be lifted!!
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods

Last edited by Redneckstone; 08-14-2012 at 05:39 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:31 PM
surfer03133 surfer03133 is offline
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lol i just read this write up on r-f. good write up man! definatley will help if i decide to go BL route
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:38 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer03133 View Post
lol i just read this write up on r-f. good write up man! definatley will help if i decide to go BL route
glad people are reading it. brought it over here to benefit
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:57 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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You can add the hurst stuff if you want, stone.
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2009, 12:08 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
You can add the hurst stuff if you want, stone.
just post it I can not edit the thread to get it all you go get it and post it here
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #6  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:01 PM
hpfreak08 hpfreak08 is offline
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wow it looks pretty nice usually you can see the frame which is why i dont like it but if thats the pik of when its done it looks damn good for a body lift..
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  #7  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:08 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
just post it I can not edit the thread to get it all you go get it and post it here
Mkay. I'm not too happy about that either.
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:20 PM
STL STL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpfreak08 View Post
wow it looks pretty nice usually you can see the frame which is why i dont like it but if thats the pik of when its done it looks damn good for a body lift..
Thats because he has running boards. Remove the running boards and you will see frame
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:25 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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a 3" bodylifted ranger, has the same amount of frame showing as an S10/colorado shows in STOCK form. Bodylifted Rangers aren't that bad at all.
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  #10  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:37 PM
STL STL is offline
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Figured I would throw this in there. Some people choose to use the summit lift for a 98-2000 ranger on the newer trucks it will work but may require some modding of the rear bumper brackets and then a different fuel neck.

Here is what we came up with on my 05 for the fuel neck. We cut the hose in half then went to lowes and got a 4.5" long pipe threaded on both ends. it is 1" in diameter. Cost like 2 dollars







Now when on the truck we pushed it all the way till it was touching the stock metal part that comes down and then put the hose clamp right at the edge of the pipe. There is still at least 1.5" after the hose clam on the tank side

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  #11  
Old 10-10-2009, 04:12 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hpfreak08 View Post
wow it looks pretty nice usually you can see the frame which is why i dont like it but if thats the pik of when its done it looks damn good for a body lift..
yes thats it finished



Quote:
Originally Posted by STL View Post
Thats because he has running boards. Remove the running boards and you will see frame
its still not that bad at all...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
a 3" bodylifted ranger, has the same amount of frame showing as an S10/colorado shows in STOCK form. Bodylifted Rangers aren't that bad at all.
agree


Quote:
Originally Posted by STL View Post
Figured I would throw this in there. Some people choose to use the summit lift for a 98-2000 ranger on the newer trucks it will work but may require some modding of the rear bumper brackets and then a different fuel neck.

I have installed a couple summit kits. never had an issue with the rear bumper.

the fuel neck problem is on any year and with summit or PA kit. Ford used what ever neck they found it changes every year idk why they do that
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2009, 04:48 PM
STL STL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
I have installed a couple summit kits. never had an issue with the rear bumper.

the fuel neck problem is on any year and with summit or PA kit. Ford used what ever neck they found it changes every year idk why they do that

Jerry (Jazz921) and I both had to drill new holes about 1/2" down to the right if the rear bumper bracket for ours to fit

Okay I thought it was just when using the summit kit on a non 98-2000 ranger the fuel neck was like that.

I know the one that came in my kit was really small. I could probably stick it inside what I put on my truck
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Old 10-10-2009, 05:22 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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Something else to add: On the '08 I bodylifted, it required a couple 1/4" barbs, some hose, and some clamps for the fuel vent extention. Nothing a short trip to Home Depot or a hardware store couldn't fix.

The 01-05 PA kit came with a 3/8 and a 5/16 extention I believe. The vent tube along with the filler tube are all varying in sizes throughout the years.

98+ kits will fit all 98+'s.
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Old 10-10-2009, 05:34 PM
STL STL is offline
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Had to get a new clamp for my fuel vent tube also
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:00 PM
Fx4wannabe01 Fx4wannabe01 is offline
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To anyone reading this and thinking "holy crap, theres a ton of little things that need to be added", don't let it detur you from doing your lift. The summit kit is priced at $150 or so and sure, it may require some little things here or there that cost a couple dollars and a trip to a hardware store. The PA kit for the 01-05 trucks is priced at about $220-250. Save $100 and spend $5. lol...the little bit of trouble lifting using the summit kit or doing a 06+, no worries. As said earlier, it's only a couple more bucks and just a little bit of extra work to get it all fixed up.

Really.....the fuel necks are the only iffy areas because ford changed sizes like every year. lol.
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