If I'm only putting in 1 inch spacers on my ranger then will I need a spring compressor? I had a peek under the truck and it looks like I just gotta undo one bolt through the centre of the bottom of the spring...To get the spring back on with the spacer in will it require a compressor or is it possible to do it by hand?

Also, does anyone have any photos of their spacer install? or know where some are? It'd be cool to see a run through of how it goes before I try it.

cheers folks

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

you don't need a spring compressor. I've got about 3/4" of washers($20) cheap lift to help out my camber from my lift. just get a six point 1 1/8" socket(for the nut clamping the coil spring down) you can do it by hand, just put A LOT of PB or WD-40 on a day or two before ya plan on doing it, that HELPS a lot. also just disconnect the sway bar, and pull the caliper off. It'll drop down plent to get a spring in and out, OH and don't forget the shock too. BTW, this is all by hand.

How much did those spacers cost?

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93 ranger ext. cab 4.0L auto 6" SJ/custom lift--37" super swamper truxs M/T tires--lock rite locker w/ 4.56 gears up front--warn hubs--exploder 8.8 w/ disc brakes 4.56 gears and detriot locker--one-piece driveline--bushwacker cut-out flares--Bilstein 5150 shocks--2 10" xcite subs w/ 1600W Crunch amp-- tinted windows

waiting for: dual steering stabilizer, put on 3" body lift(in my room), dual shock setup, electric fan, possible SAS with a waggy D44

those bolts are a pain to get loose

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You can pull the plastic inner fender well back enough to stick a long extension (24 inch+) with the appropriate socket down through the center of the spring to remove the nut.

Ray

hey guys, so I checked at my local offroad supply store and they said noone makes a 1inch spacer, smallest is a 2 inch and that's too much for me. I'm just going to use metal washers I suppose and just stack 5 or 6 of them. My question is this, there is a (rubber?) washer underneath the spring currently and should I put the metal washers underneath that one and keep the spring resting on that or put the metal washers ABOVE the rubber one?

Also I want to replace the bolt that goes through with a longer one...what specs do I need in a bolt? some kind of heavy duty type of thing? does anyone know the threads and length and stuff?

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

you'll need grade 8 bolts, just measure the length of the current bolt and add 1 inch maybe 1.5", and measure the diameter, itll need to be same diameter, home depot has grade 8 bolts

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08 Ranger Sport 2wd
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awesome thanks, do I need to use a licking nut or washer on it?

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

whoops, lol... I meant locking not licking

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

Factory Coil Spacers

Stock Rangers sit 1-1/2 inches lower in the front than the rear. Actually, it's not the the front sits down...the rear sits up a little so that once the bed is loaded up it won't sag as bad. Many enthusiasts don't haul that much and would prefer to have the truck site more level.

Ford used spring perches on the early 1990's F-150's that sat under the bottom of the coil spring. The part numbers are;

F2TZ-5A307-A
F2TZ-5A307-B

I copied this from TheRangerStations "tech library" to see the rest of the post, go here: The Ranger Station - Technical Library, and look for, Factory Coil Spacers.

I should have remembered this, I bought a pair of these 10 years ago and installed them on my B2, just saw them again yesterday as I am about to put a Dana 35 in place of the Dana 28 that came stock.
Check it out, and browse the rest of their library, it has a ton of good info.

Ray

good luck with that. i'd guess you would need to install a set of alignment cams to even get it close after installing those.

yeah I'm not going to do that, I'm just going to stack 1 inch of washers just to clear my wheel wells when I'm turning hard in reverse.

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

let us know if you have any alignment issues

okay will do. I'm probably going to get around to doing the lift next week.

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1986 Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed manual.

It is going to end up the same way, washers are going to move the caster/camber just like the spacers do, they will be cheaper to remove though.
You can get adjustable caster/camber kits that will solve the problem.

Ray

just get a camber bushing, that'll solve most of your problems, you don't need a whole "kit". also, you won't need to replace that bolt at all, it's long enough to stack an 1" worth of washers underneath it. also, the coil spring pad on the bottom, put the washers underneath it. theres a plastic/rubber peice, then the metal peice, put em under the metal peice. you're just gonna have to make sure the hole in the washers is big enough to fit around the bolt. hope that helps.

btw, those camber bushings are like $60 or so for both sides i believe

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93 ranger ext. cab 4.0L auto 6" SJ/custom lift--37" super swamper truxs M/T tires--lock rite locker w/ 4.56 gears up front--warn hubs--exploder 8.8 w/ disc brakes 4.56 gears and detriot locker--one-piece driveline--bushwacker cut-out flares--Bilstein 5150 shocks--2 10" xcite subs w/ 1600W Crunch amp-- tinted windows

waiting for: dual steering stabilizer, put on 3" body lift(in my room), dual shock setup, electric fan, possible SAS with a waggy D44