Newbie trying to lift 1994 2wd

[cstar]

So it's like the title says...

I have a 1994 2wd 2.3L 5 speed manual that I am in the process of lifting and I have... soo many questions!

Quick note about the truck...

First. I'm running 31x10.5's in the rear. I swapped the rear end to 4.10s from the stock 3.43s and I have a Banhoff stage 3 clutch. Drives pretty darn good with that setup. Currently have 235 75 R15s in the front. Seems to be getting ~25 mpg on average.

I'm thinking of swapping to 33x12.5s in the rear and running the 31s up front; I'll come back to this point in a minute.

I used AAL to lift the back up, and I'm trying to match the front by adding 4" Superlift springs in the front. I have skyjacker shocks for that amount of lift to be paired with those springs.

My questions are the following:

Will using these taller springs in the front require any modifications to steering parts/linkage? Can I just swap the taller springs and shocks into the front or will other modifications be necessary for safety/performance?

Supposing I swap my front tires out for the 31s currently on the rear, does this necessitate anything besides the taller springs + shocks in the front? I understand spacing can be an issue, that's not my concern; I didn't know if camber changes would come into the equation, if some sort of stabilizing was necessary (torsion bars sway bars etc).

Forgive my stupidity. Engine + Trans work is familiar to me but I know little about suspension mods.

Thanks

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Also this is off topic but would yall recommend swapping up for 4.56s eventually. The truck picks up speed getting on the highway fine but the difference from 3.43 to 4.10 was so positive that I wondered if going even further would be even better. I realize it is a tiny under-powered engine so I'd like to milk everything I can get out of it and I do want to get the best mpgs I can.

[jngrz95]

If you're planning on putting 4 inch lift springs in the front you're going to the need the twin I beam drop brackets and the radius arm drop brackets. Without them there is no way you will get your trucks camber back within spec. I say you just run leveling coils in the front and 31's all around. If you want bigger tires just get a body lift if you don't want to spend the $500 to get the rough country 4 inch lift. ---------- Also on the gearing topic. 4.10's are fine. once you go to lower gears your highway rpms will go up and highway Mpgs will go down. Low gears are good in the city where there's a lot of stop and go but on the highway it just makes you coast at higher rpms

[Tyler46]

I would recommend the Rough Country 4" kit. It comes with everything necessary to keep you within proper angles. Shocks, coils, pitman arm, and drop brackets and I believe bushings as well.

[cstar]

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

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I already have the springs and shocks, if possible could you guys post links to the other brackets I would need? Thanks, Chris

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Can't seem to find just the brackets & hardware for sale individually (at least in 2wd), any help with that would be much appreciated.

[cstar]

So, these seem like the right radius arm drop brackets:

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/20774.html

Am I correct in saying that? Do these look correct for 2wd? I assume the 4wd and 2wd aren't interchangeable.

So that leaves twin I beam brackets and a dropped pitman arm?

[cstar]

Last thing.

I have access to steel and I can weld + fabricate so if someone knows the dimensions of the proper brackets is there any reason I couldn't just make them?

[Tyler46]

Of course you can make the brackets, Just debate whether they are worth your time and effort.

I'm in school for welding/fabrication, but I still wouldn't make a tube bumper for my truck. I'm on the fence with welding things for my truck. If you're confident and experienced enough, do it.

[jngrz95]

Yes those would be the correct radius arm drop brackets but you can call rough country at there 1800 number and they will sell you the brackets and hardware individually.

[cstar]

Awesome, thanks guys.

I guess my best bet would be to call rough country and see what the brackets and hardware would cost. The more I look at the truck the more it just needs the front evened out... There is a 7.5" gap from the rear tire to fender well, and about 3" in the front, and gotta say, it looks mighty stupid.

Thanks for all the help

[jngrz95]

Originally Posted by cstar

Awesome, thanks guys. I guess my best bet would be to call rough country and see what the brackets and hardware would cost. The more I look at the truck the more it just needs the front evened out... There is a 7.5" gap from the rear tire to fender well, and about 3" in the front, and gotta say, it looks mighty stupid. Thanks for all the help

One thing to note. When I installed the rough country lift on my 95 it sat lower in the front than in the back. I just used some washers to level it out. It was kinda frustrating though that I paid close to $500 just to have the front lower than the back. Also I think when I called just the I-beam drop brackets and hardware were around $130

[cstar]

Awesome. Thanks. I plan on running 33x12.5s out back and 31x10.5s out front, I don't mind a touch of lean, fits the muscle kind of vibe. It will certainly be much closer than the 4" difference it has now. Lol.

That's not a bad price, thanks for the info.