I spent three hours today swapping out my std, XLT, 4.0L Ranger leaf springs out. From what I understand and have found is the OEM leafs for 2WD are 1100lbs. 4x4 are 1250lbs, and these are heavy duty upgrades that put me at 1750lbs. I must say what a difference !
They make the 349lb Flip-Pac on the back seem like it’s not there whatsoever. With the stock leafs in place, hard braking or coming into a corner just a little warm. The bed would dance all over and make for an uncomfortable experience without trying to push it. It was seriously needed for all the gear I carry and for my overlanding needs; and I still think I may have to still add-a-leaf for helper springs when all is said and done.
Now I am no bad-ass as far as muscle bound but I did this with no help, just hand tools, on an asphalt pad, and with no lubrication.. (yea, that’s what she did say…) those in colder climates that get snow, will likely need a can of PB Blaster to aid in keeping the swears and tool throwing down.
Tools needed:
- 18mm socket deep
- 19mm socket deep
- 21mm socket deep or short
- 19mm box end wrench
- 21mm box end wrench
- A large screwdriver or small pry bar
- 3/8” & ½” ratchets
- A hammer (doesn’t need to be the hammer of Thor either)
- Pair of jack stands (safety first)
- A ratcheting strap
- 4-way or tire iron
- Brush (to wipe off dirt on perches)
- Blanket/sheet to work on
I had started on the Passenger side due to the Sun being a bit less overhead and I was trying to beat it to the other side for the afternoon, so much for that. If I had to do it again, not that its any more difficult but I would have started on the driver side. Really the only difference is the emergency brake cable bracket attaches to the forward shackle/mount on the drivers side.
First loosen the lug nuts before jacking the vehicle up.
Now, you can use what ever jack you prefer. Myself I happened to have recently purchased my Hi-Lift jack and wanted to give it a shot rather than leaving it strapped to my hood like “some” of the trail-queen JEEP owners I know.
Now the leaf springs I got seem to be compliant with 2WD and 4x4’s just a matter of having already the 2” block on the 4x4’s which isn’t present on the 2WD models, at least for the 93-97 models. I purchased them from rockauto.com at $154 and some change. After they came in I attempted to show someone else the link to them and they seem to be gone now from the options. So I am posting the manufacture and part # sticker. They are located in NJ or NY and sadly unless you have a part number, they aren’t to up on their product knowledge for older vehicles, that was my impression.
As you can see there is quite the difference in the leaf packs as well as the U-bolts needed. Now for U bolts there are two different sized axle shafts to work with. I am not sure if its related to whether or not its 2WD or 4x4 or if it’s the axle or engine sizes. Maybe someone can chime in on this and answer that question for some people. Now the original bolts for mine were ½” x 2 7/8” x 6 1/2”. I opted for a 10” version because of the need for maybe a 1-2” block and a helper spring at a later date possibly.
Now I’ll be honest, there are several places here in SoCal I could get U-bolts from. Everyone wanted to charge me twice of that which I paid for mine, and they all seem to be getting them from the same place. $120+ was excessive for U-Bolts, made in America sales pitch or not.
There is an awesome place in Santa Anna, CA that does 85% leaf springs and U-bolts, custom, right there on the spot while you wait, and they know their shit. $43 + $11 in gas (beats $120).
Those familiar in the works of Deaver know already who I am talking about. Scott down there is very knowledgeable on several levels and is a no bullshit kind of guy. Tell him what you want to do, and he will put you in the right direction.
Anything longer than 10” you will need to jump up a size and re-drill your upper spring plates. ½ bolts are only available up to 10”, anything larger I believe bumps you to 9/16 or more.
First loosen all of the bolts on the stock U-bolts, you will need an 18mm socket for this. Do not remove them fully, leave them assembled.
For the forward bolt you will need your 21mm socket and a 21mm box end wrench to hold the head on the reverse side. And same for the rear bolt. The shackle bolt is removed with just the socket as the nut on the back has a retainer style bolt that aids in R&R’ing it. The shackles don’t technically need to be removed but I did so to check the bushings and it did make lining up the holes upon reassembly easier.
Once these are pulled you can now pull the upper spring plate and carefully lift the spring pack out by dipping it backwards and pulling out from behind the rear wheel hub. At least that’s what seemed easiest.
Reinstallation is simply the opposite as removal in every way. Leaning the new spring pack inwards towards the front, lean it forward and tilt the rear upwards and rest it on the lower spring perch.
** DO NOT SET THE LOWER PIN IN THE LOWER SPRING PERCH HOLE AT THIS TIME !**
Front (larger bushing)
Rear (smaller bushing) without shackle attached yet.
NOW STOP !
Now here is the part where I am going to save you some time. The new spring pack as a double nut for the upper guide pin and does not go through the upper spring plate as it should. The upper spring plate should be flush to the spring pack to be correctly fitted.
Simply using a UNI-bit or step drill bit, drill out the center of the upper spring perch. If one of the nuts used for the U-bolts can swim inside a bit that’s perfect, but don’t over do it.
Now since I know better now and I am also not using a block of any kind yet. I should have asked for double washers from Deaver, lesson learned. Once the plate was able to pass through the upper spring pack pin. The threads on the u bolts were likely going to bottom out on the shank before tightening down as needed. So adding two ½” washers to each shaft tightened things up nicely. A 19mm deep socket helps with speed threading the new nuts. Tighten with 19mm Wrench.
Now before you tighten the U-bolts, grab your ratchet strap. Wrapping it around the rear shackle on the passenger side and the axle, ratchet the axle backwards until you can guide the lower pin into the hole in the lower spring perch. With a little guidance and a wiggling it should go right in. Torque bolts down to 55-60lbs
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