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12-07-2010, 10:11 AM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Hi Guys,
Is the turn signal/emergency switch replacement straight forward? Do I need to pull the Steering Wheel?
I found an after market switch on Ebay for $35, OEM models are $40 to over $70.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Dan
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
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12-07-2010, 10:54 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,122
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
don't have to pull the column. take the trim off the column (should be 3 screws from the bottom). i don't think the wheel has to come off, but it may.
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Krylon Fusion is for Amateurs.
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12-07-2010, 11:00 AM
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Tank Diver
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,129
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
I had to tear the dash apart in order to be able to get the column cover off. Pull the knee bolster and cental rado bezel first. Then you can get the instrument cluster bezel off and finally the column cover off.
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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap
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12-09-2010, 10:11 AM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Thanks guys, part should be here tomorrow...
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
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12-09-2010, 10:32 AM
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SVT
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,522
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
don't buy one until you check your turn signal fluid. is your turn signal fluid low?
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-1995 ford ranger prerunner, 4.0, 4x4, 5-speed, 62k original miles, 2.5 radflo bypass front and 2.5 radflo triple bypass rear, deavers f23, 4.56 gears front and back, 07 seats, 07 mirrors, 35x12.50 bfg a/t, 4" fiberwerk glass front and rear, eagle alloy rims, 6k hid heads, two 8k hid off road lights, 34" led light bar, bed/roll cage/engine cage, 25 gallon fuel cell, cut and extended beams/radius arms
-2000 ford SVT f150 lightning -SOLD Lifted 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE, April's 2012 TOTM
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12-10-2010, 07:25 PM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
Last edited by Dan Woodland; 12-11-2010 at 06:26 AM.
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12-10-2010, 09:49 PM
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Do not touch the trim!
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,022
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
I just had to remove the black steering surrounds & the tilt handle to get mine swapped out. Took longer to get the stupid tilt handle off than it did to swap the multifunction switch.
$40 for an OEM was pretty cheap, I paid about $55 for mine.
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'96 XLT, 4.0L, 4x4 Auto, Super Cab, K&N Filter, Dual Exhaust, 200a Alt, Clear Corners, BUGGMAN LED's, Expo Power Seats & Console, LED modded '01 Tails
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12-10-2010, 10:36 PM
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www.shanewootenband.com
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtsandman
I had to tear the dash apart in order to be able to get the column cover off. Pull the knee bolster and cental rado bezel first. Then you can get the instrument cluster bezel off and finally the column cover off.
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drop the column in stead of tearing the dash apart, its only 2 bolts
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MY BUILD THREAD
1999 MAZDA 2500SE, 2.5L 4-clanger, 5 speed, Green n slow. Rangers as daily drivers since 1988.
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12-11-2010, 06:38 AM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Sweet Ideas guys, thanks!
I'm glad I looked here this morning! I won't bore you with the details but one dealer told me to go to the junk yard to get one. I asked if the service manual tells me to replace it after removal how would getting one from a junk yard help? He had no answer for that... He just said I can't order it.
Another dealer wanted to sell me a package of four, that's how they come he says, I can have them here by Tuesday...
Thanks again guys great ideas! Dan
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
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12-11-2010, 08:02 AM
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Ford Ranger Driver
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,122
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Quote:
Originally Posted by terryduanemiller
drop the column in stead of tearing the dash apart, its only 2 bolts
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it's more than 2 bolts on a 97. you have a handful of screws to get the lower plastic trim off, plus 4 bolts to get the metal plate off under that, then another 4 to take the column loose. the only difference between dropping the column and not, would be two screws in the radio bezel, and the ones holding the speedo bezel in. dropping the column requires more time laying on your back under the dash.
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12-11-2010, 10:07 AM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Well I used 30 minutes and bits of everyone's ideas.
There are 4 small torque screws (T20) holding on the plastic cover at your knees. Two are holding the plastic panel from below. The other two of those are holding the hood release on. Once those are removed pull from the top to release the metal push clips (that's what I'll call them).
Next remove the 6 bolts (5/16ths) holding the metal plate under the dash. These were very tight considering what they were holding.
Then remove the three Philip's head screws holding the bottom of the steering wheel cowling. Next pull gently on the lower half of the steering wheel cowling, it's snapped together with the top piece. Then jiggle the top piece as you lift it so it will clear the emergency flasher button. This will expose the top torque screw (T20) holding the flasher/turn signal unit. Unscrew both torque screws.
Now gently wiggle the flasher/turn signal unit so you can see and access the back. use two medium sized flat head screw drivers to simultaneously hold the connecting clips outward to remove each of the two wiring clips. Be sure not to extend them too far they will break.
Reverse the process to install and your golden.
Tools needed are pictured below. Two flat head and one Phillips head screw drivers, one 1/4" ratchet, extension and 5/16th socket and a T20 torque driver.
I bought the replacement part on-line at Eba motors - $37 bones. Be careful, there are a number of parts that fit a number of vehicles and they all look a like, with exception of the connectors. I highly recommend www.vehicle-interior-parts.com - I rarely recommend an on-line source. Bob is a very dedicated individual. I received an email at every step of the purchase and shipping process. I have no doubt if I had a problem he would have taken care of it. The one pictured is the old part.
The rest of the photos are of the work area...
Hope this helps someone down the road.
Dan
PS. Upon reflection I don't think removing the steel plate under the lower dash panel is needed. You only need enough clearance to drop the lower steering column cover.
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
Last edited by Dan Woodland; 12-13-2010 at 10:59 AM.
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10-19-2012, 12:55 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Woodland
Well I used 30 minutes and bits of everyone's ideas.
There are 4 small torque screws (T20) holding on the plastic cover at your knees. Two are holding the plastic panel from below. The other two of those are holding the hood release on. Once those are removed pull from the top to release the metal push clips (that's what I'll call them).
Next remove the 6 bolts (5/16ths) holding the metal plate under the dash. These were very tight considering what they were holding.
Then remove the three Philip's head screws holding the bottom of the steering wheel cowling. Next pull gently on the lower half of the steering wheel cowling, it's snapped together with the top piece. Then jiggle the top piece as you lift it so it will clear the emergency flasher button. This will expose the top torque screw (T20) holding the flasher/turn signal unit. Unscrew both torque screws.
Now gently wiggle the flasher/turn signal unit so you can see and access the back. use two medium sized flat head screw drivers to simultaneously hold the connecting clips outward to remove each of the two wiring clips. Be sure not to extend them too far they will break.
Reverse the process to install and your golden.
Tools needed are pictured below. Two flat head and one Phillips head screw drivers, one 1/4" ratchet, extension and 5/16th socket and a T20 torque driver.
I bought the replacement part on-line at Eba motors - $37 bones. Be careful, there are a number of parts that fit a number of vehicles and they all look a like, with exception of the connectors. I highly recommend www.vehicle-interior-parts.com - I rarely recommend an on-line source. Bob is a very dedicated individual. I received an email at every step of the purchase and shipping process. I have no doubt if I had a problem he would have taken care of it. The one pictured is the old part.
The rest of the photos are of the work area...
Hope this helps someone down the road.
Dan
PS. Upon reflection I don't think removing the steel plate under the lower dash panel is needed. You only need enough clearance to drop the lower steering column cover.
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I've had, I believe, the same problem with my 1997 Mazda B-4000 Xtra Cab. Semi-suddenly, no turn sigs and no hazard blinker. Fuses are fine, even tested with a DVM. Nothing else has failed, but I'm thinking the Multi-switch anyway on the control arm too. My Mazda (made at the same Ford factory, same prod line as the Rangers) is an Automatic though, and I'm wondering if the same disassembly you did will work?
BTW the guys www.vehicle-interior-parts.com you bought the switch from are apparently out of business, their site is a "no answer" to any browser I've tried.
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10-20-2012, 07:04 AM
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Ford Truck Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 80
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Too bad about the web-tailer, they treated me well but I guess they could not sustain.
As for your project, in my experience, all you need to to do is start working on it. Reviewing a Chilton manual ahead of time would probably help. I didn't "know" how much I did or didn't have to take apart until I actually dug into the project.
Post pictures so others can see how you do it. Dan
__________________
Dan
1997 XLT , Splash suspension
5 speed , Regular Cab
60/40 split bench
All Original, 165K miles (complete brake job)
Clutch, master and slave, timing belt 110K
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10-22-2012, 06:33 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Dan,
Got a few questions for you to help me eliminate all other possibilities that could be causing the Turn signal and Hazard flasher failure.
- did your model have 2 flasher modules or 1? (My '97 has 2 located in the fuse box in the engine compartment.)
- did your problem knock out both the Hazard and L/R turn signals?
- when yours was broken, did the turn signal arm still return back to neutral position even though the flashers didn't work? (mine still returns to neutral position)
- where was the "multi-switch" on yours located in the column (near the turn signal arm, near the bottom of the steering column?
- lastly, you mentioned that you had to look through a number of different Multi-switch module to find the right one. How did you find the right one? Using the Truck year, engine size, VIN number?
Appreciate the help from a "pioneer" on this problem.
Thanks!
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10-25-2012, 04:00 PM
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Learning to use the forums
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
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Re: Turn Signal repair on a 97.
Never Mind -
Well may have found a main contributor to the problem, I repeatedly pushing the Hazard flasher button on / off as a test of function since I am going to assume that both the Turn and Hazard flashers share the same Relay. Sure enough I heard the crackling electrical sound of an intermittent or poor contact in the Hazard button on the steering column. When pushed in (off position) and a good contact is made, my turn flashers work! No I need to find out what part is faulty and replace it.
If you went to all that work replacing all those parts, it may well have only been your Hazard Flasher switch causing the problem.
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