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  #1  
Old 07-24-2010, 06:42 PM
wangbungal wangbungal is offline
Ford Ranger 1997 3.0 V6
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 239
Default need help figuring this out

i bought power door lock kit on ebay, no instructions just wiring diagram, please help me create instructions how to install this, im not really good on reading a wiriing diagram so please bear with me,i already installed the door actuator, im on the wiring process now any help would be appreciated

just a little note, expressing opinions is good, but if it will not help on this matter just keep it to your self thanks!


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just need some tips do i have to buy more wires? what size of wires? any ideas where i should mount the box? which is the wires for the parking lights horn where could i get a constant 12 v questions/stuff like that id like to hear from people that did this already hoping you could enlighten me thanks in advance!

ford ranger 1997 reg cab 3.0 v6 2wd
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2010, 09:28 PM
wangbungal wangbungal is offline
Ford Ranger 1997 3.0 V6
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 239
Default Re: need help figuring this out

anyone?

could you guys just tell me how could i make this work?
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:35 PM
PaulBennett PaulBennett is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Default Re: need help figuring this out

Quote:
Originally Posted by wangbungal View Post
... im not really good on reading a wiriing diagram
I am good with wiring diagrams and publish them (for Ferraris). My truck would seem the same as yours except 1998 XLT and the minor frustation of reaching across to open the passenger door is worthy spending a buit of time to rectify. I added a remote fob system to my wife's MB (which is a vacuum system) and added remote entry (Rec-11) with door lock solenoids to my Ferrari, so I think I qualify to help you.

Great scans of the paperwork, it will be adequate to figure everything out. I will make local copies and print them out. If others want to do this I can post them for download.

Might be best if I also buy an identical unit to yours and we can work in parallel. Can you PM me with the details of what you bought on ebay. I checked and there must be a dozen types. Also tell me if there was a particular reason (besides price) why you chose that particular set.

Download Instructions for printing (right click-save image as):
http://www.paul-bennett.com/Ranger/RemoteEntry01.jpg
http://www.paul-bennett.com/Ranger/RemoteEntry02.jpg
http://www.paul-bennett.com/Ranger/RemoteEntry03.jpg
http://www.paul-bennett.com/Ranger/RemoteEntry04.jpg

Quote:
...do i have to buy more wires? what size of wires? any ideas where i should mount the box? which is the wires for the parking lights horn where could i get a constant 12 v questions/stuff like that id like to hear from people that did this already hoping you could enlighten me thanks in advance!
Highly unlikely that more wire is needed. If so, it would be most likely be #16 gauge. I'll start considering where to hide the box etc but it would be nice to have suggestions from those who have been here already...maybe I'll start another thread to get some answers. Anyway, good to meet you Ryan.

_______________Later that day__________________
I now have one coming, same as yours, courtesty eBay $49
Will be checking out the wiring, need access to fused 12v and parking lights. I'm not big on honking horns and sirens.

Last edited by PaulBennett; 07-30-2010 at 08:39 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-31-2010, 06:20 AM
wangbungal wangbungal is offline
Ford Ranger 1997 3.0 V6
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 239
Default Re: need help figuring this out

thanks for replying on my thread, the seller issued a replacement on mine because the one he send to me does not have the yellow wire for the ignition to program the remotes if you ever get yours earlier let me know thanks!


i chose this set coz you can add an alarm later on, and it does not have a separate box for the remote receiver, i dont like too much clutter under the dash

Last edited by wangbungal; 07-31-2010 at 06:23 AM.
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2010, 02:19 AM
PaulBennett PaulBennett is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Default Re: need help figuring this out

Mine Stellar door lock kit arrived today, missing minor bits and pieces. Not a Protocol brand which was advertised although one of the instruction papers was like your Protocol paper. The DVD was useless, it covers 6 different products and spends most of the time explaining how to get the door panel off. Nothing about the electricals.

I am impressed with the fine quality of the parts including the connecting wire, taking into account they are Asian manufacture, not mil-spec. Usually cheap kits use dirt cheap wire which is terribly stiff (lack of expensive plasticizer) but this the quality is good and wire length is plenty adequate.

And I was surprised they included 2 relays/sockets which will be needed to tie into the parking light circuits. They included them for the horn and/or window closure option. I may have mentioned before, the Ranger parking lights draw 15A and the keyless unit is maxed at 10A. Hence use of a relay to handle the higher current and keep the second parking circuit output available to turn on the dome light at night to illuminate the inside of the truck before opening the door.

What does concern me is the total lack of instructions to marry the units. Realize they are selling one thing but providing two things. A door lock kit and keyless entry key fob transmitter and a receiver with activated relays. Each unit works great independently but I don't like guessing about the 6 wires used to connect them together, especially when the colors are quite different. So, I will call them tomorrow. Incidentally, the REC-11 which I installed in another car had one integrated unit, not two separate units.
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2010, 08:15 AM
wangbungal wangbungal is offline
Ford Ranger 1997 3.0 V6
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 239
Default Re: need help figuring this out

the one that they send me is the central lock, but no extra relays that came with, instructions is useless, wiring diagram is wrong, im urrently disputing the problem on ebay as the guy is not responding on my complaints
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  #7  
Old 08-07-2010, 02:50 AM
PaulBennett PaulBennett is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Default I have figured it out - long read

I had a nice long chat with a fellow at theHoffmanGroup who claimed vast knowledge as an installer and said he was the author of the instructions provided. This brought me to realize I had to engineer this interface myself, and confirmed it by bench test of the circuitry he gave me (and you). The kits cannot really be made to work properly without adding 2 relays ($18) to provide a reliability circuit. More later.

1) The Door Lock/Unlock kit has 2-wire solenoids for driver and passenger side and hardware to tie into the plunger lock rod in the car. Apply 12v to the 2 wires and the solenoids go one direction, reverse the polarity and they go the opposite direction. One of the solenoids contains contacts which sense if the rod is up or down. When the rod is moved, that information is transmitter to the module to make the other solenoid follow. These solenoids are NOT identical, only one has the direction sense/transmit feature. Pull one up the other will go up. Push one down and the other will go down. One leads the other follows...this doesn't go both ways. Lock or unlock side two and side one does nothing. Buying the 4 door kit should provide complete function and I'd get that in a do-over.

2) The key Fob Wireless transmitter sends a signal to an rf receiver which contains small relays for door lock, door unlock, to tie into parking lights, auto window lowering, trunk unlock etc. Using their suggested circuitry, things kinda work sorta sometime, this after a long phone call and a verifying bench test. First problem here is connecting this unit to the door lock/unlock kit solidly and reliably. To do this requires 2 isolation relays, 12v coil and DPDT contacts. Radio Shack $18 and soldering expertise. I will post the interconnect drawing later.

3) The Ranger parking light circuit contains many bulbs on a 15A fuse. Micro relays self contained in the receiver can only handle 10A so a higher current relay is needed and fortunately they did include one.

4) I was missing the hardware which fastens the solenoid rods to the existing door plunger rod. So, I can't pull my door panels to start until those arrive.

5) I have NOT started the hunt to tie into the Ranger wiring for both a continuous 12v battery and parking brake wire. Some have reported needing ignition wiring for alarm add-on kits. Sure be nice is someone is (or has) working on this, even taking pictures. (I'm taking pictures of everything I touch).

***************Difficulties with uneven solenoids - repeating and normal types.
Refer to 1) about each side being different. If you place the repeater solenoid on the passenger side, when the driver gets out, he cannot press his handle down to lock both sides. Or when the driver gets in, he cannot lift his plunger to unlock the passenger door. Some consider this safe, driver won't accidentally lock himself out of the truck.

This time, place the repeater solenoid on the driver's side. Driver can use his key to unlock and both sides will unlock. In the past this was considered unsafe in big cities to unlock your driver's door and passenger's door is now unlocked so a strange passenger can quickly jump into your vehicle. Also, although this won't happen often, driver can quickly get out of your vehicle motor running or not but key in ignition and accidentally bump the door lock closing the door and lock themselves out.

Knowing what I know now, I would have ordered the 4 door kit, used 2 of the symmetrical reversible repeater solenoids and tossed the others. That way I could have full control at both doors. Quality of the Protocol/AutoLoc/Hoffman pack items is better than I expected. But I can see they are kitting items from different companies which aren't engineered to work together and what ever you buy this week may be different next time around. They are a high volume marketeer, ordering thousands of one thing and include it until it runs out and switch to something similar until it runs out. More power to them but it requires more knowledge to install these than they are going to provide. So far I'm not disappointed except for some users who are expecting a simple plug and play will need to search out a buddy who have good soldering skills and a head for 12v circuits.

More later - I've got the Wireless unit and extra relays wired in and tested. Tomorrow I'll tie in the lock/unlock kit and test it. On schedule so far. 2am now - hope you can follow this. Oh, the DVD provided explained how to take the door panel off, nothing electrical.

Last edited by PaulBennett; 08-07-2010 at 03:06 AM.
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  #8  
Old 08-07-2010, 10:35 PM
wangbungal wangbungal is offline
Ford Ranger 1997 3.0 V6
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 239
Default Re: need help figuring this out

oh man, you lost me already on 1 lol, hehehe so your saying the 4 door kit is better, coz you have a way to control both sides, that makes sense, i hope you could post pics and sketch a diagram, i was really hoping for a plug and play kit, but looks like its gonna need more than that
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2010, 01:59 AM
PaulBennett PaulBennett is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Default Re: need help figuring this out

At this point I'd suggest you focus on the lock/unlock part of the kit. plug the wires together, fasten to ground and +12v and pull the master lock up/down and see how the other acts. Generally make certain it works. Then picture it installed in your truck, and you sitting in the drivers seat, pulling the plunger up to unlock the passenger door. Getting out and pushing the plunger down to lock both sides. Realize the passenger can manually operate their site but it doesn't affect the driver's side. (this is what I meant about the 2 car vs 4 car kit).

Now picture what happens if you install the master lock motor on the passenger side. That's the way my MB works and has some merits.

Incidently, I have a couple small, (size is about 6" length of 2x4) 12v rechargeable batteries which are great for bench work like this instead of having to use a large clumbsy bulky full side lead acid battery. You can tape 8 D cells together, wire them in series, even put them in a cigar box, for a small working size test 12v battery. Real handy tools.

Any, check out the lock kit and get familiar with it. I'm hoping to receive the parts to lock the plunger rod to the truck and until it comes am reluctant to take of any door panels.

***************
Found this wiring info at - the12volt.com - for 1998 Ranger alarm, keyless entry when factory installed. But some of the wiring might be there already and not have to be rerun. And we need that constant 12V+ so I'm looking for a yellow wire and we need the parking lights, shown as a brown wire. Anyone else will need to go to that site to find differences for the year or their Ranger.

Constant 12V+ Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Light Green/Purple Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Black/Green Ignition Switch Harness (Heat AC)
Tach Tan/Yellow Coil or Pin 48 at PCM
Neutral Safety Wire Red/Light Blue (+)
Brake Switch Light Green Brake Switch
Parking Lights Brown (+) Driver's Kick Panel or White/Black at Sw
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Steering Column
Hood Pin Tan/Light Green (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Factory Disarm Dark Green/Purple (-) 4 Pin Connector Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Black/Light Blue (+) Courtesy Light under Dash
Door Lock Pink/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green (-)
Driver's Lock Pink/Black (+) Driver's Door Harness
Driver's Unlock Red/Orange (+) Driver's Door Harness
Passenger Unlock Pink/Green (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Horn Wire Yellow/Light Green (-) Or Blue at Steering Column
Windows Up LF=White/Black, RF=Tan/Light Blue
Windows Down LF=Red, RF=White/Yellow Driver's Door Harness
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