Discussion thread: How to change your odometer when doing gauge swap 95-03 trucks
'03 and older gauge swappers: How to change your odometer
This how-to shows how to swap your current odometer gauge into your new gauge cluster on 95-03 Ford Ranger/B-series as well as the Explorer Counterparts(’01 and older Explorer, . OR how-to roll your new-to-you cluster’s odometer to your current odometer reading. The same technique could probably be used on older models as well...though i'm unsure.
Disclaimer: In this how-to, it shows you how to ‘roll your odometer’. In NO WAY shall it be used to illegally roll your odometer to show a lower mileage reading on your vehicle. Also, I nor can FordRangerForum.com cannot be held responsible for any mess-ups that could occur by the rolling of the odometer or swapping of the odometer/speedometer gauge, and also the disassembly of your clusters. I am not responsible for someone’s ignorance for not being careful.
I’m doing it in reverse as to what others would do, but all this applies to this swap. I am taking the odometer/speedo gauge from an Explorer Sport Trac cluster, and carrying it over to a stock Ranger cluster.
The awesome Sport Trac cluster i will be working on courtesy of Mr. Beard...
You must first remove the plastic lense/cover from the cluster using a T15 torx on the 7 screws in which hold it on..
Cover removed…
Beginning mileage is 89650…
Outer gauges must first be removed. I like to pull up the top section, and it’ll just pop right on out of there.
Center section must come out next. I like to pull up on the right hand side…there’s solid plastic chunk which you will feel when you attempt it. I also like to pull up on the very top…wedge my finger nail between the center gauge chunk and the cluster ‘housing’.
All three removed…
Now flip the center section over. Here, you’ll see the electric motor which drives the speedometer needle(silver round thingy towards the bottom right). Circled, are the solder studs which we’ll talk about later…
In order to take the odometer/speedo gauge out, you must remove the needle. BUT in order to make sure you place the needle properly in the correct orientation on the needle, you must first calibrate the speedometer. We do this with a little bit of wire, alligator clips/roach clips, and a new AA battery. Make your wires look like the pic below. You need to pretty much make a ‘ Y ‘ out of them. Top of the ‘ Y ‘ shall have the roach clips, bottom of the ‘ Y ‘ shall be a long stripped section of bare wire. I made the bottom portion of the ‘ Y ‘ long to make it easier to make the vids seen later in this post.
Now….those circled solder studs talked about above…they come into play here. Place an alligator clip on each stud, as following diagram. Make sure the roach clips are not touching each other OR the motor. I like to lean the Tach/Speedo gauge up against the cluster ‘housing’..makes it easy and it stays put. Red = + pos. Black = - Neg.
Now…place the bottom of the ‘ Y ‘s stripped section onto their respective ends of a new AA battery. I did the wires in cooresponding colors…Red = pos. Black = Neg. So it makes it easy. While you do this, watch the speedometer needle. It should move and hold still on a number, in this case, it was approx 70mph.
Go ahead and do the AA test a few times to create an accurate speed reading. Write that reading down or take a mental note. Now you are ready to remove the speedo needle. This is best done I find, by rotating the needle up off the stop, and taking a fork to it. Sometimes though, the needle is set in so far, a fork will not fit. In that case, I like to take my box cutter and pull it up a little bit…enough to get the fork in. Get the fork in there, and pull straight up, strongly yet gently. Now the needle should be removed.
Now we are ready to remove the speedo/odometer gauge from the gauge face. It’s held on by three screws which take ¼” socket or a 5mm socket.
If you are just swapping your existing odometer to your new cluster, you can skip down towards the bottom where we re-install it into the new cluster.
Here’s a vid which compiles all these steps together…makes a nice visual to learn I think…
Here we get to the nitty gritty.
DISCLAIMER: IT IS UNLAWFUL TO ILLEGALLY ROLL YOUR ODOMETER TO A LOWER READING OR EVEN A DIFFERENT READING AS FAR AS I KNOW. THIS SHOWS YOU HOW TO ROLL YOUR NEW CLUSTERS ODOMETER TO YOUR CURRENT ODOMETER READING. IN NO WAY SHALL THIS HOW-TO BE USED FOR ANY UNLAYFULL DOINGS.
You must separate the two sections by carefully twisting off the ‘pinion gear motor’ off the gears for the odo/trip meter. I like to do this by twisting on the plastic electrical connector, and while I’m doing that, I’d be pushing on the plastic retaining clip which holds the motor in place.
Now, be careful with this part…you CAN break one of the retaining clips and the odometer will not function properly if you do. I happened to do this when taking these pics…
Good..
Bad..
And…the metal ears…they are sharp, so be cautious…
Now you are ready to remove the odometer. It’s press fit into the plastic frame. I like to turn it down, and shove on the left side of the shaft with my finger nail. Then, on the pinion gear side, I like to either pull up or push down on the outer ‘ring gear’. Now the shaft containing the odometer should be removed. Once removed, you can slide the ‘ring gear’ off the shaft.
You paid attention to the odometers orientation in the plastic frame right? Anyway…this is how it is placed in the frame…
Here is the ring gear side of the odometer. This piece must be spaced away from the number columns. I use my trusty box cutter again for this. You see those little plastic ‘ears’ ? You’ll want to pry up on that gear 90 degrees from those ‘ears’. It should only move a small amount, but that small amount is perfect.