Not sure about the grease. If it comes off it may clog up the oil pump...

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1999 Ranger 3.0FFV-ExtCab-4x4-My 99 Build
1998 Ranger 3.0-ExtCab-4x4-PROJECT TRUCK-My 98 Build

thank you for taking the time and documenting and narrating this video. i just learned about our little cam sync issues, and i am now going to tackle this project with my mechanic friend.

thanks to your detailed video, i have a full understanding of the cam sync

thank you

Wife is screaming fix it. Very informative, thank you. As my gear failed I ordered unit and gear. Cam websites recommend assembly lube, or a 0.040 hole to oil gear. Does anyone know if Dorman 90453 distributor gear is correct?

Thought I commented here? Where is how to TDC if gear failed? What I have read: TDC is 5 teeth from missing tooth at crank sensor? When seated (I have narrow HAL tooth) should be to left of notch in housing at TDC. 18 teeth would be 20 degree +/- one gear tooth off. This is actually 25 degree after for fuel injection? As this covers 10 years and thick or thin reluctor inside cam synchronizer does anyone have thin tooth with tab information? As the engine will continue to run after gear failure my 1998 Windstar is Not adjustable.

Some have markings...

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1999 Ranger 3.0FFV-ExtCab-4x4-My 99 Build
1998 Ranger 3.0-ExtCab-4x4-PROJECT TRUCK-My 98 Build

Pull plug #6 if it is on compression stroke line up tooth 5 on crank ring after gap. 5 teeth from gap is TDC #1. Try 12 oclock for CMP TOOTH as it slides down into place should be nearly in notch. My hex shaft had retainer so It was half into CMP and rotated to drop into oil pump then line up gears.
Correct? CDLG-FD32S (2 PIN) Unit @ Autozone $38 today 98 3.0 All I could see was the crank sensor and ring
Position (CKP) sensor and the teeth of the CKP sensors tone ring. Every
tooth on the wheel represents 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Move
the crankshaft approximately 2.5 teeth in the ATDC direction.
When at 26 degrees ATDC, the "single raised tooth" of the cam sensor should be directly in the middle of the sensor opening in the synchronizer
housing. If the engine was at TDC, the single raised tooth would be just beginning to enter the sensor opening. After 95 no adjustment my 98 limped home with a sheared gear. To check with a reader that can see individual fuel injector errors unplug #1 fuel injector, only correct error is #1 fuel injector lean miss fire. Any other error you are "out of time".

Any pics of this last post on setting tdc?

I just wanted to say thank you for this. I read in the repair book how to do it and looked through some other forums. I tried, and was not successful at locating TDC on my #1 cylinder so I dropped the synchronizer in the same position as the old one was in. Putting in a new Cam sync, Camshaft sensor and Crank position sensor took care of the issue I was having with the engine RPMs being under acceleration and dropping down. It did not take care of the misfire in cylinder 4 code I have had since I bought the truck earlier this month. To the best of my knowledge, the synchronizer had never been changed in 192,xxx miles.

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2003 Ford Ranger XL Supercab 2WD
3.0L Flex Fuel
Automatic Trans
Code 86 rear axle: Open 7.5" 3.73 ratio
Stock

From what I am reading and seeing a Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool is not needed. Yippe!! Thanks!!

I'm new to the Forum, and I have read this thread. I also am the original owner of a 2000 Mazda B3000 and I'm guessing this camshaft sync would apply to it as well??? It has 144k and the camshaft sync has never been changed.

I just had the transmission rebuilt, and the engine is skipping at low rpms. While looking on the forum for a possible cause, I came across this. More to do I suppose.

Thanks for the video and info on this issue.

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2000 Mazda B3000 2WD... 144k
There is no honor in dying for your county, honor is having the other poor bastard die for his.

Not sure if this would be causing that, but definitely get a new one in there.

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Baby Girl: 2006 White Ranger XL with many memories. R.I.P. 1/26/15

I replaced MINE today, 102k miles, 2003 Ranger Edge (3.0)

I got the Ford/Motorcraft Sensor AND Synchronizer.....

Took about 20 tries but I got the new one lined up perfectly-just as the old one was.

I immersed the synchronizer in oil for a half hour before I started to install it.

Just take your time, take a picture or 2 of the original BEFORE you remove it for reference.

Then just orient the new one exactly the same way.

I took my truck for a ride with the new sensor and synchronizer installed, and BOY what a difference!!!!

Soooooo smooth!! (MY old synchronizer had been squeeking only about 500 miles......

MINE is like a brand new truck now!!

I'm good for another 102k miles!!!!!

If I loosen the hold down bolt and turn the synchro just a tad either way will it adjust the timing like turning an old distributor?

I got my new one in fine after about 20 tries, I feel 99% sure I got it exactly where the old one was.......

Bump because I need to find this later for part #s

Sorry everyone

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Baby Girl: 2006 White Ranger XL with many memories. R.I.P. 1/26/15

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Curent 2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1 owner - Build Thread for her: Logan's 2003 Mach 1

Former 2003 Ford Ranger owner - Build Thread for her: Project Budget Buster