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Old 08-17-2012, 02:36 PM
misfitJason misfitJason is offline
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Posts: 115
Default EGR tech (egr valve, dpfe sensor, solenoid)

This is a basic explanation of the egr system on the ford ranger. This one in particular is from my 1997 4.0 liter. I had a p0401 code setting off my check engine light. I still might have to replace the dpfe sensor as well but this is how I cleaned the egr tube and removed and replaced the egr valve. I removed the fender well but that is only necessary to get at the bottom of the egr tube. All of the other components are easy to get to. To get my egr tube off i had to use pb blaster and a propane torch. it took awhile but it worked. Hope you guys find this helpful

Tools:
5 mm socket
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
1 inch wrench
1 1/16 wrench
new egr valve and gasket (cost me 41.99)
pb blaster and carb cleaner
propane torch
adjustable wrench

1. I put the driver's side front of my truck on a jack to give me more room to work. Remove the negative battery cable.

2. I removed the bolts that attach the plastic fender shirt from the fender well. Don't forget the plastic ones



3. now you have more room to work. move that stuff out of your way and don't loose them.


4. Next locate the egr valve, tube, dpfe sensor, and solenoid

valve

dpfe

solenoid

5. Take your pb blaster and soak the nuts on the egr tube and bolts for the egr valve. Sometimes they can be welded on due to the heat. Reapply and use the torch as necessary to loosen them. the bottom two are easiest to get at from the fender well.



6. Once you have those loose i checked and removed the top tube on the egr valve and the egr valve bolts. careful because only one of the egr valve bolts has a nut on the end. Also there is a gasket that needs to come off from the egr vlave


7. Once you have the egr valve removed you can clean the tubes out if you don't want to remove them. i used carb cleaner as mine weren't really clogged but some people reccomend using pipe cleaners to really get in there. i guess a flexible bore cleaner for a rifle or something like that could work too


8. Double check all of your hoses and tubes running the system and make sure you don't have any cracks or breaks. It's easiest to get at them now.

9. Grab your new egr valve and gasket. I used antiseize on the threads just in case I have to remove the valve in the future to make it easier next time.



10. Place your new egr valve and gasket into position. Don't forget to tighten the tube and re-connect the top tube on the egr valve

11. Put you battery cable, wheel, and fender shirt back on.

If that doesn't resolve your problem here are some trouble shooting tips from my manual for the rest of the system.








Last edited by misfitJason; 08-17-2012 at 02:49 PM. Reason: added more
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2012, 02:52 PM
misfitJason misfitJason is offline
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Posts: 115
Default Re: EGR tech (egr valve, dpfe sensor, solenoid)

egr system explained

http://youtu.be/RUmH4lwTLKs
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:32 AM
Shakedown Shakedown is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 147
Default Re: EGR tech (egr valve, dpfe sensor, solenoid)

Good write up. Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:15 AM
misfitJason misfitJason is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 115
Default Re: EGR tech (egr valve, dpfe sensor, solenoid)

Well just as a little follow up.


My check engine light was still on after replacing the valve and solenoid so that leaves one thing. I replaced the dpfe sensor and when taking it out water came out of it. That is what we call a sign. I noticed that a vibration that my truck had went away and it runs a lot better now too!
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:04 AM
Grampybox Grampybox is offline
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Default Re: EGR tech (egr valve, dpfe sensor, solenoid)

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to say thanks for the info. '98 4.0s look a little bit different, but I think you answered my question about accessing the EGR Tube nut. Although I'm not really too happy about removing the inner fender.

It did however bring up another question.
Will heating the area where the EGR tube connects to the EGR Valve damage the diaphragm inside the valve?

I can get a BWD brand from Advance Auto using promo code TRT30, (30% off ) for $39.19 online & pick up in store.
Or wait 2-6 days and spend $49.46 (total) at Rock Auto with a 5% discount, for the Standard brand.

I'd rather clean the valve and use the money for beer & bait.
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Quote:
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*People who do stupid things normally don't get better but rather, they just continue doing stupid things.
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Last edited by Grampybox; 05-13-2014 at 09:07 AM.
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