This is a How To: for my 2003 2wd regular cab Ranger. You may or may not need to replace the rotors when doing your brakes, the Minimum thickness is printed on the inside of the factory rotors. Measure your rotor with a micrometer to determine if they need to be replaced. Since you have it all apart you might as well replace the wheel bearings for piece of mind, its only another $25 for both both sides inner and outer wheel bearings and seal. There is no reason to re use the old bearings or seal.
Tools and parts you will need:
Two new rotors
New set of pads
New outer and inner wheel bearing and seal for each side
Wheel bearing grease
New cotter pin
Shop towels for cleaning off old grease
Jack and jack stands
Ratchet with 14mm and 15mm sockets
Lug bolt wrench
Flat head screw driver
Needle nose pliers
First, loosen the lug nuts but dont take them off
Jack up the car.
Remove the lug nuts and then remove the wheel
Remove the two 14mm bolts on the caliper,
Pull the caliper off, this is where the cardboard box or bungy cord comes in handy. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake lines!
Remove the pads
WOW I really needed new pads, look at the old ones compared to the new, LOL
remove the two 15mm bolts on the back of the caliper bracket
remove the caliper bracket
Now remove the grease cap, I used a screw driver and a rubber mallet to start to pry it off.
Remove the cotter in with a pair of needle nose pliers
Remove the bolt lock cover
Remove the bolt, Mine was just over hand tight. I did not need any tools to remove it.
Pull the Rotor off the car. A large washer and the wheel bearing will probably fall out of the old rotor.
Discard the old rotor and wheel bearings.
Clean all the old grease off of the spindle, bolt, bolt holder, washer etc.
My new rotors came with wheel bearing Races already installed so I did not need to use the Races the came with the wheel bearings.
Grease up the bearings VERY LIBERALLY, as well as inside the rotor, on the spindle BEFORE you install the new bearing.
Install the new seal, its a tight fit so I used the rubber mallet.
Put the new rotor on the spindle
Grease up the outer bearing before putting it in the rotor
Put the washer back on
Put the bolt back on, I tightened it up a bit with a wrench then backed off. Then put it to finger tight. I also put a bunch more grease inside.
Put the bolt holder back in
I used a new Cotter pin but you could probably re use the old one.
Put the grease cap back on with a mallet.
Now you need to reinstall the caliper bracket with the 15mm bolts. I used loctite but its not necessary.
I used my caliper piston tool to push the pistons back into the caliper, make sure you watch the level of the brake fluid reservoir so the fluid doesnt go above the MAX line, otherwise it might spill everywhere. I didnt have a problem but if you do I would remove a bit of fluid with a turkey baster or something.
I used the brake lube that came with my new pads and put it on every metal to metal contact point to make sure the brakes dont squeek. Make sure you only use half of it so you can use the other half on the other side.
Put the pads back in and put the caliper back on. Tighten the caliper. I used loctite again but its not necessary.
Put the wheel back on. Tighten the lug nuts half tight.
Put the car down and tighten the bolts the rest of the way.
Do the other side with the same steps.
When you are finished, turn the car on and pump the brakes until it gets stiff again. Drive around easy for the next few hundred miles.
You just saved yourself a ton of money! Congrats!
I am in no way responsible if you mess up your brakes using my tutorial. I followed these steps using guides online myself and was able to do my brakes without a problem. If I missed something please let me know and I will edit.