Since I was doing these I thought I would Submit a how to. First off the parts. I bought these kits off ebay. At 43.95 a side its way cheaper than ford and includes the bolts. Even though they are made in China(and I'm pro american) the Ford ones are definatley junk! Both sides shipped to my door was $102.25 and I had them they next day. SHACKLE AND HANGER KIT REAR FORD RANGER 1983-2007:eBay Motors (item 390076171360 end time Aug-29-09 14:08:54 PDT)



The Damage, after the shakle was removed.

You will have to jack the frame up to relieve spring tension.

Optional tool-Sawzall! It makes life a little easier by getting the etra rusty metal out of the way.


Grind the heads off the rivets.

Use a chisel to remove the remaining braket material.

Grind the rivets flush with the frame and punch them out with a punch.

Next I took the grinder with a soft disk and cleaned the area and sprayed some paint on the frame to try and protect it a little.

The easy part, just bolt it on. FYI- when tightening any suspension bushing always do so with the weight on the suspension.

For some reason Ford decided to give you 2 nuts instead of rivets on the drivers side, I have seen this on all the trucks I have worked on.

This is the response I got at the ebay link you provided. Any other link for this?

"This listing (390076171360) has been removed, or this item is not available.

•Please check that you've entered the correct item number
•Listings that have ended 90 or more days ago will not be available for viewing."

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Also,
I had to cut the shackle off the leaf spring, but the bolt and bushing still wont come out of the leaf. Any suggestions? My gear puller is so hard to crank its slipping off center and falling off.

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2 Rangers: -1994 2wd 4.0 -1998 2wd 3.0

They can be a real PITA to get out. A torch or a sledge and a 2x4 wedged between the frame and spring to keep it from bouncing when you hit it.

The thread was from 1/2010, that's why the auction is not current.

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22 and counting...

yea, i used a torch, some pb blaster, a heavy ass sledge hammer and the 2x4 to knock my bushing out worked fine for me lol.

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Well it finally happened to me. Hit a good bounce and my passenger side shackle snapped right off the hanger. Luckily no bed damage, but both hanger and shackle need to be replaced. Figured it would be worth doing both sides at this time. Got a quote from my local shop who has done all the work for me and said $326 total for both sides and I had mentioned shocks prior to this and he said he would put rear shocks on while doing this and only charge for the shocks no labor, so another $80. I really don't have that cash right now, but I'm certainly no mechanic, but can I do this myself? I have the tools I would need at my disposal. I'm figuring maybe half the price if not less. Please advise me and any other specific directions on this, thank you!!!

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

my brother in law and i plan on attacking this. Advance auto right down the road have both the shackles and hangers in stock and will cost $90.00 plus tax for both sides. I just dont wanna miss anything so any advice would be much appreciated. Also gonna do rear shocks while i have bed off. Thanks in Advance!!!

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

Great write up. I just put the same shackles and hangers on from advance last weekend. Can do it easily with you and your brother in-law if you have the tools. Its not hard, just time consuming.

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Robert
1999 Ranger Flareside
2.5L, 5 spd, Hurst, '01-'03 Front, 32's, 15x10 Eagle 058, 3" Body Lift,'06 Badges, Tails, Corners, 5k HIDs
2013 F150 STX 4x4 5.0L

Well went on advances website and they had a really good deal. 20% off total purchase plus if you spend $100 they send you a $50 gift card to be used on a future order of $100 or more. Ordered both shackles, hangers and Monroe gas matic lt shocks for the rear and picked them up at the store in an hour. Total including tax was $122. Not bad, just can't wait to start. How bout pointers on removing bed. I know there's a how to but can't see pics. What size socket do I need and do the bolts just come out of frame, looks like nuts are connected right to frame. I know about taillights and wires and 3 bolts by gas tank neck. Just looking for more detailed specifics. Thanks in advance. Oh and that future purchase will be front shocks, thrush welded and fitting to hook up muffler to pipes.

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

Its 6 bolts in the bed. You need a torx socket to get them out. The frame has those clips that have threads in them to have the bolts thread into. 3 bolts at the fuel neck. Once all the bolts are out have you and a buddy lift the bed up while another disconnects the connector for the tail lights. Then just lay the bed down. I didn't need to take the bumper off.

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Robert
1999 Ranger Flareside
2.5L, 5 spd, Hurst, '01-'03 Front, 32's, 15x10 Eagle 058, 3" Body Lift,'06 Badges, Tails, Corners, 5k HIDs
2013 F150 STX 4x4 5.0L

Thanks for info. One question, the truck has a body lift on it and I think the bolts were changed out n have regular heads on them. I'm assuming metric, I tried a 3/4 I had nearby n it fit but had a little play in it. Also think I'm gonna buy a breaker bar n the socket to fit. Any idea of size???

Sent from my iPhone using FRF App

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

Here is what I did on mine...
Ranger ext cab 99.
Bought the frame piece at Autorust.com or autorust technicians, they are in RI and they sell the frame pieces for both sides for 130 shipped to your door..
I took many pics but I dont know how to upload them..

you can upload them to photobucket (you have to create an account) then grab the [IMG] Links and copy and paste them into here

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Got the bed off yesterday, bolts were 18mm. Got the 4 on the corners out but snapped the two closest to the rear ones. Will have to drill out. Bed came right off no problems. How about socket size for the bolts that hold shackles on the leaf. Obviously I'll need 2 sizes to remove bolt. One side is completely broken free from the frame, so looks like some grinding but other side is still intact but very rusty. Doing both sides then the rear shocks. I also will be cleaning up the rust on the frame. Wire brush then some bed lining.

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

Guys got the hanger off frame and shackle of lead but cannot get the bolt and sleeve out of leaf. Also does the rubber bushing come out and get replaced with the one that comes with the new shackle??? At first I thought rubber part stays but don't think new bushing will fit inside it. Please help!!!

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98 Ranger Supercab XLT 4.0 4x4 Oxford White
3" Body Lift, 265/75/16s on 16" stock aluminum blacked out, Thrush Welded coming out infront of pass tire with dual tip, Spectre Drop in Filter, Pioneer Avic-920bt with Pioneer 6x8s all around, Kicker 10" Bass Station, Silverstar Ultras in Headlights

leave the bushing in if you can for now, unless you want to put a new one in. as far as that bolt goes, you just have to give it hell, and i mean real hell. use pb blaster, hammers, clamps, whatever you have. a puller or press can be helpful getting the bolt out.

get some heavy gloves and heat it up if you have to.

edit: for that bolt and 'sleeve' in the bushing, leave the sleeve in the rubber bushing, it can be re-used if it looks ok. else, just put a whole new bushing in.

edit2: if the bolt is terribly rusted, then a new bolt may be in order, if not now, then soon, maybe when you can put new bushings in.

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1999 xlt 2.5l 5-speed Supercab 159k
83 diesel 2.2l na
06 F250 6.0l psd
{click for lol}