|
03-26-2013, 08:42 AM
|
|
<<< Husky the High Dog!
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,181
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
Well it lifts it in the sense that the tires were tipped in from the BJ being bad. So when the tire is straight again, it sets the truck up proper.
|
lol sloppy bjs haha
did you crank the t-bars?
|
Register and never see these ads again. |
|
03-31-2013, 09:30 AM
|
Learning to use the forums
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
I just finished installing Moog ball joints and upper control arms on the driver's side using this thread as a guide; will do the other side in a day or two. I also installed the Moog camber adjuster plates etc. Everything went pretty well so far. I did not remove the hub or tie rod end; with the fixed axle it wasn't necessary. I did find an "extra" part, a rubber ring that was loose on the axle - see picture. It appears to be a seal but I'm not sure how it fastens to anything - any ideas?
https://picasaweb.google.com/1133845...75138962887026
I also found the Moog camber adjuster somewhat difficult to move - had to loosen the nuts to enable them to move.
__________________
2000 Ranger XLT 4wd 4l offroad 171K fixed hubs Dynomax catback 265x75x15 tires
|
|
|
|
03-31-2013, 12:53 PM
|
Ford Ranger Owner
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 57
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Instead of buying a new bolt, I decided to just use the K80068 Moog single UCA kit with the adjustment bolt kit from Moog since the bushings were all nasty. It turned out that as I was loosening the bolt, the mud guard flipped the ratchet wrench to tighten, and not paying attention, I tightened it too much and stripped the threads on the bolt. Then I had to cut it out, bought a little handsaw, didn't work, rented a reciprocating saw to cut through the old UCA. And there is some strong as metal in the middle, then decided I was stupid and should've gone through the rubber part. Did that, metal part there too. So then I bent the UCA in so I can reach the bolt from the inside and cut it off there. Two days later, I cut the bolt, reinstalled the UCA and all is dandy.
However, when I was putting the left UCA in, the adjustment plate fell off and I found it today. I knew something fell, but I didn't know what it was. So anyways I was trying to put it in today, but my left upper control arm is sticking too much to the left and the bolt is the farthest left possible and wont let the plate in. I need to push the UCA front part more to the right to get it seated right.
But I am sick and tired and frustrated with the truck after my nightmare with 2 stripped bolts from carelessness. If I get the alignment done at Sears, will they fix that and just adjust it for me? It isn't hard and I could do it myself but I am exhausted working on it and much rather just have it included in the alignment price. Not sure if they are qualified enough to know how to fix that though.
Question: Will they fix the UCA and adjustment plate for me if I pay for an alignment?
__________________
2001 Ford Ranger Edge mostly stock, modifications include:
1 inch lift? big all terrain tires, stock rims
plastic mat liner inside
AVS wind deflectors
Sony subwoofer that is too big and a child's seat
|
|
|
|
04-22-2013, 07:42 PM
|
|
Ban Survivor. (x2)
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,764
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
I would think they could tighten that up for you, just ask the mechanic or let him know.
|
|
|
|
04-27-2013, 10:45 AM
|
Ford Ranger Owner
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 57
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
I would think they could tighten that up for you, just ask the mechanic or let him know.
|
I ended up just doing it myself. I took some time off, then came back to it a couple days later. I used a 2x2 piece of wood and a hammer to push the UCA in without damaging it. Then it was seated properly. However, I drove it a bit with the little caster plate not put on right and it bent it a bit. Used a hammer and screwdriver with some light taps to get it out.
I put everything back together and went for the alignment. Sears said my tires were too big and I had to go to this other place. Turned out to be cheaper, but then they said I needed a caster kit for the drivers side too, then charged me like $30 the kit and an extra $20 for labor, with $50 for the alignment.
I kinda felt like hitting myself, because they charged me $20 to put in two little washer things... Should've just bought 2 caster kits, but I thought I only needed one for the passenger side.
I learned how to work on my truck and feel a lot more confident now. However, I was a little bit careless and made mistakes that cost me a lot of money and time to fix.
Thanks for the write-up.
__________________
2001 Ford Ranger Edge mostly stock, modifications include:
1 inch lift? big all terrain tires, stock rims
plastic mat liner inside
AVS wind deflectors
Sony subwoofer that is too big and a child's seat
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
04-27-2013, 10:50 AM
|
|
<<< Husky the High Dog!
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,181
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkInProcess
I ended up just doing it myself. I took some time off, then came back to it a couple days later. I used a 2x2 piece of wood and a hammer to push the UCA in without damaging it. Then it was seated properly. However, I drove it a bit with the little caster plate not put on right and it bent it a bit. Used a hammer and screwdriver with some light taps to get it out.
I put everything back together and went for the alignment. Sears said my tires were too big and I had to go to this other place. Turned out to be cheaper, but then they said I needed a caster kit for the drivers side too, then charged me like $30 the kit and an extra $20 for labor, with $50 for the alignment.
I kinda felt like hitting myself, because they charged me $20 to put in two little washer things... Should've just bought 2 caster kits, but I thought I only needed one for the passenger side.
I learned how to work on my truck and feel a lot more confident now. However, I was a little bit careless and made mistakes that cost me a lot of money and time to fix.
Thanks for the write-up.
|
i commend you for trying it yourself in the first place! that's how we all learn this shit lol
|
|
|
|
05-02-2013, 06:14 PM
|
|
Learning to use the forums
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 13
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Did both upper and lower control arms and added rancho shocks on my truck (drivers side yesterday and passenger side today). What a pain in the keister! I still have a bad wheel bearing that I need to replace on the drivers side but I can't get the two bolts on the caliper bracket or the three on the wheel hub assy. I might go with heating them up to break the thread locker but the proximity of the cv boot worries me...nothing like using a torch right next to grease and rubber to pucker your anus...
__________________
2002 ranger XLT 4wd with the ever popular 4.0 liter v6 sohc engine
|
05-02-2013, 06:19 PM
|
|
Buy a Ford
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 198
|
|
Shouldn't have to heat them up, use half inch ratchet or small breaker bar. Gives a little more room if you turn the wheel so the front is pointing outward.
Sent from my iPhone using FRF App.
__________________
2005 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab, 4.0L. 245 Cu. In, 5-Speed, 4.10's, KYB'S @ corners, Moog Hubs, Rain Guards, and Mobil 1 for life.
|
05-03-2013, 07:22 AM
|
|
<<< Husky the High Dog!
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,181
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
mine came out the first try after a day long soaking with pb blaster
|
05-03-2013, 06:11 PM
|
|
Learning to use the forums
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 13
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by matts05ranger
Shouldn't have to heat them up, use half inch ratchet or small breaker bar. Gives a little more room if you turn the wheel so the front is pointing outward.
Sent from my iPhone using FRF App.
|
Finally got them off....went with a bigger breaker bar. Only problem is I still have the grinding noise in the front end. It's there going straight and turning right. Goes away when I turn left and increases in volume when I speed up. Drivers side wheel bearing right...not so much unless they are bad out of the box. Damit I'm angry right now...
__________________
2002 ranger XLT 4wd with the ever popular 4.0 liter v6 sohc engine
|
05-03-2013, 07:28 PM
|
|
Ban Survivor. (x2)
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,764
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rpker
Finally got them off....went with a bigger breaker bar. Only problem is I still have the grinding noise in the front end. It's there going straight and turning right. Goes away when I turn left and increases in volume when I speed up. Drivers side wheel bearing right...not so much unless they are bad out of the box. Damit I'm angry right now...
|
Noise coming from the diff...?
|
05-04-2013, 11:51 AM
|
|
Learning to use the forums
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 13
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo
Noise coming from the diff...?
|
By process of elimination...
No play in either cv shaft
In 4wd no clunk when backing and turning
Cv boots both in good condition on both sides...
Probably not a cv shaft
No play in the diff pinion bearing
No play in the forward drive shaft ujoints
Probably not the pinion bearing
There IS a slight leak in the differential pinion seal but is a pretty easy replacement.
So here is my question, is there any way to check the bearings on the diff without opening it up completely?
AND
if it is the diff bearings where do I look to find someone to rebuild this thing or should I be looking for a straight replacement?
__________________
2002 ranger XLT 4wd with the ever popular 4.0 liter v6 sohc engine
|
05-05-2013, 01:58 PM
|
|
Ban Survivor. (x2)
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,764
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rpker
There IS a slight leak in the differential pinion seal but is a pretty easy replacement.
So here is my question, is there any way to check the bearings on the diff without opening it up completely?
AND
if it is the diff bearings where do I look to find someone to rebuild this thing or should I be looking for a straight replacement?
|
Maybe its just low on oil?
The only way to the bearings is thru the front cover. Even just to look at them
Maybe you could jack it up, remove tires, drive shaft and hook a socket to a drill, stick it on the pinion nut and wind the diff out. If the noise is replicated, its something there.
Maybe pinion bearings, maybe carrier bearings....?
|
|
|
|
08-27-2013, 11:18 PM
|
|
2001 XLT
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,218
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
AWESOME how to thank you!!!
I'm about to do this entire thing this weekend! This will be of great help!
-Nigel
|
09-16-2013, 05:04 PM
|
|
Ban Survivor. (x2)
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,764
|
|
Re: Upper control arms and Lower Ball joints - 98-00/01+ 4x4. 2WD Also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy
AWESOME how to thank you!!!
I'm about to do this entire thing this weekend! This will be of great help!
-Nigel
|
Did you get the work done?
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|