Finally got around to experimenting with the M/C to see if I can get better braking performance after the disc swap.
In case you're just joining us... several of us that have done the swap have been a bit disappointed with the braking performance over stock drums. It's been a theory of mine that the stock proportioning valve for the rear drums has been the cause as drums require less hydro pressure compared to discs. You'll know if your truck has a proportioning valve if you see a small aluminum canister about 1" in diameter and 1 1/2" long protruding off the drivers side of the M/C.
I first tried the ghetto method by pulling the valve off the M/C, pulling out the guts and putting the canister back on. While bleeding the brakes, fluid squirted out the pressure relief valve in front of the M/C therefore the ghetto method will not work.
Based on a previous post, I bought a '98 Expo M/C but found the rear brake line fitting is a larger size than my stock line (front line is the same). Rather than buy a new larger fitting and swap it out for the smaller stock fitting (that goes into the proportioning valve), I went to the junk yard and pulled one off a '98 and '00 Expo.
After bleeding the new M/C and brakes, driving it and bleeding the brakes again, I noticed the performance is much better than either the stock drum setup or the disc setup with the stock M/C with proportioning valve. It's still not a world beater, but I have more confidence that if an a$$ clown slams his brakes on in front of me, I can stop in time.
Couple things to note: 1) the Expo has 2 different shaped lines for their rear brakes. One has a few 90's and the other is longer with a dog leg type curve. Both will work, but the shorter line with simple 90's is a cleaner application. 2) Be prepared to bleed your brakes several times before all the air is out. I bled both M/C and the brake calipers, went for a drive and needed to bleed them again. After the 2nd session, brake performance really increased. I didn't see any air bubbles come out the 2nd time, but they must have been there.
The new M/C cost me $90 and Napa, the brake lines were $5 at the junkyard and $10 for the brake fluid. I could have saved a few $$s by pulling a M/C at the wrecker, but with my luck the seals would have been junk and I would have had to rebuild it. Therefore I bought new.
Hope this helps those disappointed with the initial brake performance.

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2000 XLT 4WD 4.0L OHV, 5 spd, Alabama Cylinder heads, Delta Cams Valve Train and Pushrods, JBA Headers, KKM Cone Air Cleaner, BBK Throttle body, Dynomax Cat-Back exhaust, Summit Racing drilled front rotors w/ EBC pads, Cobra rear disk brake conversion w/ Hawk pads, 8.8" 4.10 Traction-Lok

Yea I already explained all this a few pages back with pictures.

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2010 Fx4 F150
2003 Ford SVT Cobra
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad =====SOLD
5.0 V8 with L/S 4.10's and a lot of other crap

True you covered some of this, but you also noted that you didn't know if the proportioning valve could be run with the guts removed. Now we all know it can't.

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2000 XLT 4WD 4.0L OHV, 5 spd, Alabama Cylinder heads, Delta Cams Valve Train and Pushrods, JBA Headers, KKM Cone Air Cleaner, BBK Throttle body, Dynomax Cat-Back exhaust, Summit Racing drilled front rotors w/ EBC pads, Cobra rear disk brake conversion w/ Hawk pads, 8.8" 4.10 Traction-Lok

It can't. It has a hole one the side as I stated somewhere.

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2010 Fx4 F150
2003 Ford SVT Cobra
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad =====SOLD
5.0 V8 with L/S 4.10's and a lot of other crap

So verdict is using a MC from a 98 Explorer?

Trying to get all of the parts together so I can do this in the spring. Will prob go new MC, and does it have a proportioning valve in it or do I need to get an aftermarket one?

Thanks in advance.

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01 Ranger Edge 2wd 5spd 3.0
8.8 swap with Richmond 4.56s & Detroit Truetrac

WNPs Spindle lift/Explorer bastard packs/Belltech Shackles, Mustang Disc Swap, 33x12.5R15 Duratracs on Mickey Thompson Sidebiter IIs, Cargo 3rd brakelight swap, 06+ Mirrors, VHT Nightshade tails/3rd, 04 FX4 Valance, Headlight/foglight mod, Interior Next!

So I was thinking today about why my truck still doesn't feel like it brakes how it should. I was thinking maybe it's the abs? Is the abs set to kick in at a certain pressure point? Because disk brakes need more pressure. This is what I was thinking, I feel like the abs is kicking in at a certain point where if it were drum brakes the tires would lock up, but since its disk brakes it doesn't get the pressure it should because it's limiting the pressure..what do you guys think?

So I disconnected the abs and it works soo much better now!

Interesting. You're running a m/c from an Expo as I recall. Can you lock up the rear brakes now?
As I posted, my brakes are much better after the Expo m/c swap but I can't get the rear brakes to lock up or trigger the ABS no matter how hard I slam on the pedal. Seems that I should be able too.

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2000 XLT 4WD 4.0L OHV, 5 spd, Alabama Cylinder heads, Delta Cams Valve Train and Pushrods, JBA Headers, KKM Cone Air Cleaner, BBK Throttle body, Dynomax Cat-Back exhaust, Summit Racing drilled front rotors w/ EBC pads, Cobra rear disk brake conversion w/ Hawk pads, 8.8" 4.10 Traction-Lok

It feels better now but I'm not able to lock up the brakes, it doesn't help that I have 33x12.5 tires with steel rims though

I'm running stock rims and tire size so I can experiment with mine and see if it makes a difference.
Where did you unplug the ABS and have you gotten the light to come on when driving?

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2000 XLT 4WD 4.0L OHV, 5 spd, Alabama Cylinder heads, Delta Cams Valve Train and Pushrods, JBA Headers, KKM Cone Air Cleaner, BBK Throttle body, Dynomax Cat-Back exhaust, Summit Racing drilled front rotors w/ EBC pads, Cobra rear disk brake conversion w/ Hawk pads, 8.8" 4.10 Traction-Lok

From under the hood on the abs hydraulic unit. And yeah it came on right away, also the parking brake light. Doesn't bother me though

I use driving offroad in the snow and for some reason my abs stopped working (light came on)
Once I got back on dry road I slammed the brakes and you could tell it was stopping harder instantly. Still couldn't get the tires to lock up but the 32's don't help that

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2010 Fx4 F150
2003 Ford SVT Cobra
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad =====SOLD
5.0 V8 with L/S 4.10's and a lot of other crap

so quick question
would the pads for this swap be the same as the front pads?

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RED 1999 4x4 4.0l ranger with rhino liner, throttle cable mod,
air silencer mod, BFG A/T's, LED color changing
footwell lights

No

Hi guys. I've read through the whole thread and I'm still a little unclear if the Rear ABS block needs to be removed for this conversion. Also is a proportioning valve needed or not needed. Thanks