Discuss How to: Rear disc brake conversion for stock Ranger rear end - Page 17

zekew64 · #**241** 03-15-2012, 08:40 AM

Just a thought, but something was--and is--still bugging me from when I went to the JY to pull the brackets, and it's this: Why would you have to cut the anchor plates (the plate that bolts to the axle tube), and then mount the plates on the opposite side of the axle tube flange? What would be the issue, to me, is the spacing on everything. I say this because when I pulled the brackets off of the '97 Mustang (not a GT or Cobra) at the JY, the spacing seems to me to be the same.

However, I'm going to mock up everything before I permanently put it all together to see if cutting the anchor plate is really necessary or not, and get back with you guys/girls who might be doing this mod, just to let you know if indeed you have to cut the bracket to put it on the backside of the axle flange or not.

Redneckstone · #**242** 03-15-2012, 08:51 AM

You have to the spacing is not the same

Thetequilaworms · #**243** 03-15-2012, 09:09 AM

if you dont cut the brackets your rotors arent going to sit flush, your caliper brackets are going to hit the rotor and i doubt youll be able to get the calipers on.

with the anchor plates cut and mounted behind the flange, the caliper brackets already get pretty damn close to the rotors.

zekew64 · #**244** 03-15-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CADreamin

Apologies for bringing up an old thread and for my ignorance, but I have a question. How does this mod affect the ABS system? Can you do this on any 28-spline rear, even if the truck is equipped with ABS?

Sorry for missing this, but I do have some information that might help.

After tearing into a JY-bought 8.8" axle, I found out how the ABS system works, and it's like this:

If you pull the diff cover off (after draining out the old fluid, obviously), you'll see the big gear--that's the ring gear. Attached to that is what looks like a saw blade--that's the gear that the ABS system uses for electronic pulse detection by the sensor.

As to the question, if a Ranger with ABS axle is used, the ABS system shouldn't be affected by this mod--the ABS system will still work, becasue the system itself gets the input signal from the toothed gear attached to the ring gear, which in turn is used to pulse the ABS system so that the system is what pulses the drums or calipers (which would be on your truck if you did this mod).

Hope this info clears up your question.

zekew64 · #**245** 03-22-2012, 03:51 PM

UPDATE

Just thought I'd tell you all that today, I finally got everything mocked up--and I can confirm that the regular GT/V6 Mustang brakes will work with stock 14" rims. About the only thing holding me back at this point is the fact I don't have the brake kit to cut and reflare new lines for the disc brakes

...but other than that, I'm going to try and have this done before June!

Now, if I don't get distracted by other things...

piscespokerbrat · #**246** 03-30-2012, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zekew64

UPDATE

and I can confirm that the regular GT/V6 Mustang brakes will work with stock 14" rims.

DUH.. see post #230.

goofin · #**247** 04-28-2012, 03:55 PM

Poked around on Corral.net and found a seller that sold me calipers with brackets, axle mounts and anti-moans. I picked up new soft lines, rotors and ceramic pads. Cut the axle mounts today, have to clean up some parts and with any luck next Saturday they will be installed.

If you cant find or dont want to hit a junkyard Dale will help you out with as little or as much as you need.
bobbya312@yahoo.com is his email, give him a shout

zekew64 · #**248** 04-30-2012, 05:22 PM

UPDATE

Finally got this mod done...between rain storms, no less, lol...

Everything went together as I've seen, save for one thing.

That is, the E-brake cables. Even with the mod, the stock Ranger cables are too long--however, I found a solution (in the weirdest of places, to boot). The solution is, after reading a Jeep magazine (don't laugh, my brother R3V413 is a Jeep Forum guy, so he buys the mags). The solution is to acquire the E-brake cables from a '95 & up Expo, as they are shorter than our stock cables and are already designed to work with disc brakes.

Also, I do want to know how to stiffen up my brake pedal; I know I've got bad fluid in the front (which I plan on changing out, as soon as the weather clears up). But what I might end up doing, if the fluid change doesn't stiffen up my pedal is changing out my master cylinder for an Expo one. I know there are those that have done this, but for some reason, my pedal isn't stiffening up at all with the engine on, so I guess I have some more work ahead of me (not that there's anything wrong with that, lol).

Also, when I bled out my fluid for the brakes, I noticed that the fluid itself was a blackish-brown color. If you see this, get yourself a helper or a "one-man bleeder kit" and bleed out your fluid--the color indicates that there is too much water in the system, and what good does it do to put disc brakes on when your fluid will vaporize, internally, when you apply the brakes?

But, as it stands, I'm loving the new brakes and axle--found out when I tore out the old stuff that both rear-wheel seals were bad and leaking majorly. So, with new seals in a good axle and clean fluid, no more vibrations from the rear (thank God).

Hope you all are having luck with your builds/mods--sadly, no pics due to not having a camera, so I can't show you all what exactly was done.

85rangster · #**249** 04-30-2012, 06:10 PM

I only read the first page I have an 85 ranger 2wd would it work for me? And how much would it cost ?

zekew64 · #**250** 05-01-2012, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85rangster

I only read the first page I have an 85 ranger 2wd would it work for me? And how much would it cost ?

First thing you need to do is look at your door jamb sticker and look at the bottom for your axle code. Take that info and then compare it to the axle code list that is stickied at the top of the drivetrain technical forum (I believe that's where it is). If you've got 28-spline axles, then yes, it would work for you.

As for cost, that depends on getting the necessary parts from a boneyard--the anchor plate brackets are really hard to get a hold of, in particular. I got mine for $20 per side at a Cherry-Picked yard.

Next, it's getting the hardware, the calipers/caliper brackets, and pads and rotors, and brake lines. If you get everything new, I'd say to expect the costs involved to run about $300 or so. If you can find junk parts that will work, you'll cut down on costs tremendously. I would also recommend to get two driver's side rubber lines for your hard lines. As for the steel lines that you'll need, mostly you'll need new fittings; the lines themselves you can probably salvage from the axle you've already got.

85rangster · #**251** 05-03-2012, 04:33 PM

Thx man I'll look, would you say junkyard parts above or below $100? Thx in advance

Redrocket · #**252** 05-04-2012, 04:09 PM

the copper pipe on the stock cables worked great for me..

goofin · #**253** 05-05-2012, 08:37 AM

Started the conversion this morning, truck is up on lift, rear housing is draining and replacing axle seals. hopefully pics will follow

goofin · #**254** 05-05-2012, 05:15 PM

i used cobra brake lines only because no one had gt lines locally. They are shorter and different than the gt but work fine, cell phone pics suck.
installed new axle seals while i was at it. truck stops so much quicker now. Just have to hook ebrakes up, need new cables, one was broken

dmonspeedn · #**255** 05-16-2012, 11:19 AM

I have a 2000 Ranger XLT Sport 2WD 3.0L Flex. The rear end on my truck is a 3.73, would I be able to use this conversion on it? Also, any ideas on how to up my front brakes. I have not been able to find a big brake kit anywhere.

Thanks.