28. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Some are hard to get at... You will need a 10mm, extension, and an 11mm socket (this one's for a nut that is holding a ground wire onto the rear stud on the #4 cylinder.
(SPECIAL TOOL TIME!) You need to use your spring lock coupling tool to disconnect the two fuel lines connected to the fuel rail. Insert your tool into the side of the coupling that you can see the springs on, push in the tool, (might be a click, might not), and pull the two lines apart... You might have to wiggle the pieces and work them a little bit to get them apart as they have been seated for YEARS.
- Remove the lower intake manifold.
29. Properly align the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley with proper (TOP DEAD CENTER) timing marks - use a socket wrench to turn the motor until the notches all line up as they should.
30. Remove spark plugs (8) with a 16mm socket and extension.
31. Using a breaker bar and your socket, prop the breaker bar against the bottom side of the frame on the passenger side, socket attached to the center bolt on the crankshaft pulley.
- Reconnect the battery (positive then negative)
- Car in neutral, parking break on, crank the motor in a short burst a few times to break the center bolt on the crankshaft pulley free.
- Disconnect battery and remove center bolt on the pulley
Using a harmonic dampener puller with supplied bolts, remove the crankshaft pulley (for the center, use a supplied bolt that is smaller in diameter than the original crank pulley bolt, but just a bit longer than the original one).
- Check to make sure all of your timing marks still align. The notch on the crank pulley should be at 12 o-clock. #1 piston (one closest to the front of the motor) should be in the TDC position. Check this using a flashlight looking into the spark plug holes on the #1 piston.
32. Remove valve cover bolts (8mm socket + extension)
- remove valve cover
33. Remove the thermostat housing bolts (10mm)
- remove thermostat housing
34. Remove the timing tensioner adjustment bolt (10mm?), the timing tensioner mounting bolt (17mm?), and the timing spring retaining stud (10mm).
- Remove the tensioner
35. Loosen and remove all head bolts (13mm) with a breaker bar.
36. Remove head from vehicle (woot woot!!!)
- Carefully inspect the head or have it professionally inspected for warpage, cracks, excessive deposits on valves, cam/rocker damage.
- Make sure to cover up the block with a plastic garbage bag.
37. Prepare the block and head for the new headgasket.
- I used a manual wood sander (just a rectangle that holds the sandpaper)
- Use a fine grit sandpaper
- Carefully and evenly sand away at the old gasket material and get all corrosion, gasket, anything that isn't metal off the block. - take your time and do it right.
- Vacuum out all sandpaper shavings and metalic shavings from the cylinders, pistons, and crevices in the block. The more you get out, the better.
- wipe down cylinder walls and block surface - make sure it's completely clean for the new gasket.
- Do the same to the gasket surface on the head - MAKE SURE YOU TAKE YOUR TIME!
- vacuum out head, valve areas, and all crevices in the head.
- Wipe clean and get all residue off the mating surface and all crevices you can get to.
- With feeler gauges and a true strait edge, measure the head for warpage.
(MAX WARPAGE LIMIT: 0.006 inch [overall])
38. Place new headgasket over the dowel pin on the block and make sure it is perfectly aligned with all holes and passages. (If the block isn't completely clean it may leak)
39. Confirm that the crankshaft is at TDC and that the camshaft is at the 5-oclock position.
40. Carefully position the head on the block making sure not to disturb the gasket (you may want a helper for this).
41. Oil the new head bolts (all the way up the threads) and insert all ten of them into their holes.
42. Torque head bolts in sequence as shown in the diagram below.
- first torque bolts to 51 ft-lbs, then retorque in order another 90-100 degrees.
43. Properly align the camshaft at the original TDC position (line up the TDC marks)
44. Install the new valve cover gasket (line up all holes carefully).
45. Place valve cover carefully onto the new gasket, making sure not to disturb it. Make sure all holes line up and that the gasket didn't move.
46. Insert and torque valve cover bolts to 72-108 inch-pounds (I did 107 inch-pounds).
48. Clean all gasket material and residue off of the mating surface for the new water pump.
49. Apply gasket maker (red) on the new gasket (make sure it's the side that is facing the water pump) on every area of the gasket (make sure you get around the bolt holes too!)
- Place the new gasket correctly on the water pump.
- Apply gasket maker (red) on the side of the gasket that will be connecting to the block (make sure again that you get gasket maker on every area of the gasket).
- Slide water pump mounting bolts through the holes in the water pump, making sure the gasket is properly aligned.
- Insert the new pump the same way it was attached before (it only fits one way) and begin to thread all three mounting bolts.
- Torque mounting bolts, 1/4 turn at a time to 89 inch-pounds and double check all bolts for proper torque.
50. Clean mating surface on thermostat housing and the area where the thermostat mounts to the motor.
- Remove old thermostat and mount new thermostat in housing
- Apply (red) gasket maker to the thermostat side of the gasket and apply gasket to the thermostat housing.
- Apply (red) gasket maker to the motor side of the new thermostat gasket.
- Carefully insert thermostat housing onto motor (using the bolts as a guide) and torque bolts evenly to 120 inch-pounds
51. If you haven't already, clean the mating area on the head and exhaust manifold to prepare for the new exhaust manifold gasket.
- Insert new exhaust manifold gasket onto manifold using two bolts as a guide.
- Start all bolts by hand.
- Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 60-84 inch-pounds
- Torque exhaust manifold bolts to 16-23 foot-pounds
52. Insert new spark plugs
- Torque to spec
53. Install the new timing tensioner
- Tighten tensioner adjustment bolt down with tensioner in the fully "untensioned" position.
54. Ensure that all timing marks align to TDC position, start routing timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket. Remove all tension between crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket and route timing belt around oil pump sprocket. Remove all tension between oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket. Route timing belt around camshaft sprocket. Route the back side of the timing belt around the tensioner pulley and loosen the tensioner adjustment bolt - tighten adjustment bolt and spring bolt (17mm).
Place crankshaft pulley slightly onto the shaft and rotate the motor two full revolutions by hand (and make sure your timing marks still align - if they don't, repeat step 54).
Remove crankshaft pulley from shaft.
Tighten down all parts (such as the crankshaft positon sensor) that you had previously removed and re-install any components to the crankshaft that you had previously removed.
Install the outer timing cover.
Install the center crankshaft pulley bolt (reverse of removal) and torque to 103-133 foot-pounds.
Install the four crankshaft pulley bolts.
55. Re-install and tighten the five power steering pump bolts.