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  #226  
Old 07-19-2012, 05:58 PM
Sniper55 Sniper55 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeatzee View Post
I don't know the science behind it, I just know there is a definite lag and power/torque loss with the mod. My truck struggled up hills and downshifted way more with the silencer removal, and does just fine now without. Plus when I go foot to the floor there is no long pause before the revs start climbing now.
Well I'm not that sure about truck engines but i do know on motorcycles when you add more air to them that moves the powerBand Further up the RPM range soo you don't loose power its just moved so it feels different at lower Rpms but thats wit motorcycles these are trucks soo....
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  #227  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:37 PM
Jracer098 Jracer098 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

I had this mod for a little while and I undid it yesterday, honestly its better now that I put the silencer back on. Reason why I say that, it coast on the highway at 65 mph very steady now, goes uphill without needing to downshift or give as much throttle, and since I no longer have to downshift as much, and give as much throttle uphill, I'm getting a little bit better mpg now. I did love the sound it made at the higher rpms.
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1998 Ranger 2.5L 5 spd with 250,000 miles as of 1/25/13
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throttle cable mod, alpine head unit, 2009 ford ranger wheels, dumped stock exhaust, L.E.D mustang dome light, tinted windows, L.E.D tachless gauge cluster with hvac, Eddie bauer leather seats need to get wired lol, Ford explorer full length center console.
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  #228  
Old 08-03-2012, 04:33 PM
94mtx 94mtx is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

Undid this mod today and noticed a huge power DECREASE.


Will be removing the silencer again in the morning.

The only thing that I do not like about having it removed is that you have to give it more throttle when starting out or shifting at normal RPMs otherwise you "buck".. [not really a buck, just not enough throttle to pull so I'd consider it more of a lag.. kinda like being in third gear coasting, then pushing the throttle to the point where it starts to pull again and you get a slight jerk]


The power band without the silencer seems to be at a higher RPM.
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2000 Ford Ranger XL 2.5L 5-speed RWD 3.73 open - 170,000+ miles
Buggman LED 3BL/CARGO, Buggman Stang Dome LED conversion, LED Brake Light conversion, Line-X O.T.R., Air silencer removed
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  #229  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:38 PM
Rangerdanger4c Rangerdanger4c is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

This did make a difference. I just did it tonight and I like how my truck sounds now. Its got more of a deeper tone to it. Might get up a little faster. Not quite sure yet. Just took it for a short drive after. You dont really need to take out the air cleaner box either. I could reach in between and pull out the box behind the light and popped the snorckle right out. Thanks for the idea!
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OHC - Sony Radio - 1600w Amp - 12in Dual subs X2 Custom boxes - 400w 6x9 rear speakers - 200w 4x6 door speakers - Cobra CB & white dual whips - blacked out halo headlights - explorer gauge cluster w/LEDS - air box mod - ignition coil mod
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  #230  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:26 AM
Country21 Country21 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

Ok well I have an 2004 ranger xl with the automatic 3.0 in it. Tryin to do this mod but noticed the air boxes are different. How or what do I need to do without breakin anything do this mod?

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  #231  
Old 01-12-2013, 03:05 PM
rangerdanger77 rangerdanger77 is offline
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Default

Take out the box there are like push pin thingys on the bottom then take out the snorkel

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03 Ranger XLT 4x2 | 3.0l 2-door ext. cab auto trans | BTF Fabricated Spindles/Camburg Upper Arms/Camburg 2.5" coils/Bilstein 5100s/Limit Straps | 2" shackles/2.5" blocks | airbox mod w/ k&n drop in | thrush welded | blacked out emblems | 6000k hids | 06+ tails & corners | Cargo Light Mod | Billet Grille | Custom Bumper | Hella 700ffs | 32x11.5x15 BFG AT KO | 15" Procomp 7031 | Buggman LED Mustang Dome/Cluster/Reverse Lights | Kenwood Headunit | FORD floor mats
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  #232  
Old 05-24-2013, 11:56 PM
Manual master Manual master is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

for reference
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2007 3.0 5-speed, with the uncleanable black paint
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  #233  
Old 06-06-2013, 01:34 PM
d4nger r4nger d4nger r4nger is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

Just did this today on my '11 2.3L. Makes her purr a little, as well as it is much faster for me to accelerate from a full stop and through the gears. No more luggin' around woo!
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  #234  
Old 06-07-2013, 07:06 AM
11bnuffy 11bnuffy is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

I've done this mod about 2 years ago and havent had problem. I also put K&N filter at the same time. Currently Towing an enclosed trailer with a motorcycle from Kansas to Georgia to Maine and back to Georgia. Made towing a breeze, with these 2 mods. Trailer weighs roughly over 1,500 pounds with bike in it.
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  #235  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:16 PM
markk53 markk53 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

After reading this whole thread I was amazed at the lack of thought about what was happening and why.

In many cases with motorcycles, most specifically on the sport bikes, the air box is designed and tuned to the desired performance from the bike. You won't see racers with the air box pulled off. In fact you seldom will see them even modified beyond a K&N, which I believe most run.

On bikes with tight quarters like dual sport bikes sometimes the air box is a compromise and removal of snorkles and maybe holes cut in the air box WILL help performance through freer breathing.

One reason for removal of snorkles is the restriction caused by the inside of the snorkle being far smaller than that of the opening where it is plugged in. My own KLX picked up power over the whole range when "unplugged" and with a full exhaust system it actually GAINED MPG! Went from 50 mpg to 60 mpg. Freer breathing and more efficient. I also added a Dial-A-Jet fuel adder to cover for the lean jetting, having had experience with the product before. On the KLX250s the guys go to a KLX300 snorkle because the material is thinner and more open inside. These are usually off roaders who may need the splash protection to keep from getting water directly on the filter.

Needless to say, these air boxes are quite inefficient due to lack of air space the engine needs as is. Sportbikes have HUGE air boxes so as to have a good supply of air, along with adequately sized intake openings. One more example, compare the air intake on a Harley Sportster with the one Eric Buell put on his significantly higher horsepower Sportster engine based bikes - the Buells were huge and called "bread boxes", but they worked.

I'm not so sure how the Ranger air box fits in this picture. The question is if it can flow well enough to be mostly unrestricted. It is possible to have too free of flow, but that usually doesn't happen since the exhaust systems usually provide necessary restriction to maintain decent performance for the street, even the larger ones. But the freer flow may push power delivery up a bit in RPM. So there are limits.

Oddly enough there are other restrictions that might even show up in this modification. The snorkle may be a shade too small due to the thickness of the material, but the shape will flow air cleanly. Air doesn't like sharp edges and corners. I'm betting that edge where the snorkle was pulled will create some turbulence as the air passes over that edge. I think a bead made up of split thin wall plastic or rubber tubing would smooth some of that flow out.

Now I've not yet looked at what is in there around the intake, raining outside so that ain't gonna happen for a bit, so some of what I may say here may not apply. The intake area behind the headlight may also cause added turbulence and possible flow restriction. I read where someone put a funnel in there. That probably was a good idea if it was fitted to the air box intake without cutting down the opening area. Still some kind of rounding at that opening would help - again square corners and sharp edges don't flow well.

One more thing, screen and steel mesh is rated in percentage of opening per the size. Placing any mesh or screen over an opening WILL restrict it and by the amount at which it is rated. The one picture with the screen that probably had at least a 40% area blockage. Not particularly good now. If I want to keep varmints out of an air box I'd use coarse chicken wire, just enough blockage to keep the mice out without significantly cutting air flow.

In the intake going to the engine any accordion type tubing will also restrict flow. I worked in quality engineering in an excavator plant. We had problems with the defrosters and heater system. They had 2" accordion style tubing running to the various outlets. An air flow company tested the ducting. They found that 2" accordion type tubing had so much turbulence due to the ribs that it was flowing a path about the diameter of a dime! No flow. So any kind of tubing with any kind of accordion effect will be restrictive based on turbulence stirred up. One good argument for smooth piping. Any sort of muffler in that intake will also cause the same effect, it is baffling the flow to quiet it down - aka restriction. By the way, this is why a five angle valve seat cut is better than three - it is smoothing transition and since they need flat surfaces for the valve and contouring in that area is very difficult they use multiple flat cuts working the contour with smaller angles cutting turbulence of the flow as it goes into the cylinder. They want the turbulence in the cylinder, not in the intake/exhaust ports.

It's all about fluid flow (in this case the fluid is air - a gasseous fluid). The whole thought process should be about flow. It started out pretty much as such showing how big the intake opening is without the snorkle. It seemed to digress to "I like the noise" and "I think it works"/"It doesn't work" without much actual rationalization as to why. "Because the dealership says so" or "because the engineers did it and it must be right" don't quite cut it. Makes me think about the comment about the Garlits Museum and the shaker scoop on the Cuda. I think the comment about a CAI and K&N wasn't as far off base as might be thought. That shaker was as much about looking cool as it was for performance. The factory didn't put them on the superstockers they built, they put a forward facing scoop that had huge openings. Sort of the Neanderthal CAI from the 70s, but they weren't dealing with the EPA either. The shaker looked cool, but if I remember right, they weren't that hot for air flow. Oddly enough too from back in the muscle car days was that leaving the bottom plate of an air cleaner (one of those custom ones that sandwiched a filter between the top and bottom, added power through cleaner flow entering the carburetor than leaving it open. Air does tricky things, remember the tear drop hood scoops with the openings in the back? Pulling air in from the back? Then there was Chevy's cowl induction too. There's a lot to it.

All this being said, my real point is what I haven't done yet and apparently hasn't been done much here - look at the situation and make an evaluation based on some serious fluid flow dynamics. How to open flow without screwing it up, keeping it cool and coming in over reasonably aerodynamic surfaces to keep it smooth - laminar as those considering fluid power would call it - for good flow with minimal turbulence. The place where some semi-controlled turbulence or swirl could be desirable, at the point where gas and air mix. Up at the initial intake the flow should be as smooth as possible.

So, what I'm reading is that it is possible the Ranger engines could possibly use more air flow. The question is what is the best way to do so. A freebie is to pull the snorkle, but how much of an improvement is that - if any. Air flow increase is needed as the engine wants to draw more. Personal opinion is the best initial improvement would be to go to a K&N because they flow so well - but cost so much so everyone's looking for the freebie. Next would be looking at that snorkle and what could be done to make a good larger intake horn. Next would be up stream replacing that air muffler with a smooth tube. Then as the wallet allows it, getting smoother transition in the tubes and connectors, no accordion stuff if there is any from Ford.

If each step works right something should happen. If efficiency is increased in the lower middle range it should be reflected in better mpg which requires as close to equal testing as possible, like a long distance run from one place to another or a series of similar distance runs like back and forth to work for a week or two. That would give realistic comparison.

When it comes to increase in power about the only truly reliable thing would be dyno or some kind of track testing. I know there is 30-60 mph numbers and some guys have a favorite hill where an engine is tested in high gear, approaching at a set speed and then accelerating to the top or some other point. I had one where the test was simply could a car/truck accelerate from 45 mph and how strong.

As for sound - I actually pulled the lid off my KLX to cut restriction... I lasted a half block, turned around, went back and put it back on, the intake roar was just too loud and many other KLX riders will vouch for that. Only the most hard core hp junkies go that way or to an open air filter. I guess I'll let the pipes do the talking for the bike. Not too sure about the Ranger though. I will say if it sounds better that is icing on the cake, but it has to be pleasant sound. I'm not into being loud and obnoxious.

That is kind of proof of the pudding here. Some good thought process and some real testing. Will I be doing so? Maybe. I'm always looking for a few more mpg in my normal driving. I would be looking at how the air flows based on some class work in fluid power and what I learned on the job at the excavator company. It's about clean air flow if needed.

My apologies if I offended anyone. I will also say I didn't read everything word for word, I scanned the posts for key words that would show what I was looking for. I'm just putting the "discussion" on a level of outcome based scientific engineering typ thought. Maybe some new stuff can be added.
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1996 Ranger Splash 4.0/5sp manual 3/4'ed - haul yard waste, mulch, orders of hard wood for my classes, and tow a 5x10' enclosed trailer around a bit.
1995 Kawasaki KLX650C big bore 678cc - lotta fun!
1990 Kawasaki ZR550 Zephyr - that old AMA Superbike look I love.
1978 Yamaha SR500 street-tracker with the emphasis on tracker (short tracker with lights).
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  #236  
Old 07-07-2013, 06:31 PM
1993ranger4x4 1993ranger4x4 is offline
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Will this work on my truck?

1993 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L 5 speed 181,000 miles
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  #237  
Old 07-07-2013, 11:04 PM
02RangerFX4 02RangerFX4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993ranger4x4 View Post
Will this work on my truck?

1993 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L 5 speed 181,000 miles
I don't think so. Idk if the round air filters have a detachable snorkel.
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  #238  
Old 07-08-2013, 10:28 AM
markk53 markk53 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993ranger4x4 View Post
Will this work on my truck?

1993 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 4.0L 5 speed 181,000 miles
Did you look under the hood on your Ranger? When the rain stopped I looked under the hood of my 96 4.0 - No, it won't work. Different air intake. Odds are you'd learn the same.

Also in discussion with a friend about performance, we figured the snorkle to the injector body was probably smooth inside since reinforcment ribs are on the outside. My friend also pointed out that the plastic tube would be far more resistant to absorbing heat than an aluminum tube, just doesn't look as trick. Made sense to me since the aluminum is a far better conductor of heat than that ugly black plastic... so the plastic will remain regardless.

Sometimes trick looking isn't trick working. Ya gotta take the time to read, listen, learn and evaluate.
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1996 Ranger Splash 4.0/5sp manual 3/4'ed - haul yard waste, mulch, orders of hard wood for my classes, and tow a 5x10' enclosed trailer around a bit.
1995 Kawasaki KLX650C big bore 678cc - lotta fun!
1990 Kawasaki ZR550 Zephyr - that old AMA Superbike look I love.
1978 Yamaha SR500 street-tracker with the emphasis on tracker (short tracker with lights).
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  #239  
Old 07-31-2013, 02:21 PM
bdillard77 bdillard77 is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

I recently done this mod and it took forever it seemed and a great deal of tugging and pulling to take it out but I finally got it. I took it out and cleaned my filter and airbox and then reinstalled it. When I started my truck, it idled for a little while then shut off (which I thought was odd) but I then started it again and it idled back to normal. Then I took it for a quick test drive and what I noticed was that it seemed to go through first a lot better than before. I'll keep it off for now to see how it does but if something acts up, at least I know to put the original stuff back on. At least its a quick and easy and free mod! Lol
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  #240  
Old 08-05-2013, 12:37 PM
LoJosRanger LoJosRanger is offline
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Default Re: How To: Air Silencer Removal (Cold Air Intake)

It's all in your head. This mod alone will not give you any noticeable performance gain. Not in first gear, not in any gear.
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