I helped a friend make this repair and documented it for FRF members.
Test your pedal assembly by grasping it and trying to move it from side to side. Any side to side movement is wear in the brake pedal assembly.
Brake Pedal Assembly: How to replace.
This repair was performed on a standard cab 2002 Ranger Edge straight shift. Ranger years range from 1995 to 2003.
Possible failure symptoms are:
• Difficult to depress clutch pedal.
• Difficult to shift into gear.
• Brake lights fail to light when depressing the brake pedal or stay on after engine is turned off and releasing the brake pedal.
• Difficult or failure to start the engine after depressing the clutch pedal.
• Place vehicle on a level surface.
• Engage emergency brake and leave shifter in gear or place a chock a behind a wheel.
• Wear clothing you don’t mind getting dirty.
• Allow a minimum of 4 hours to perform this repair.
• 3/8 Drive ratchet.
• 3/8 Drive long and short extensions.
• 3/8 Drive universal.
• 13mm 3/8 drive standard socket.
• 13mm 3/8 drive deep well socket.
• Flat blade screw driver.
• New Brake Pedal Assembly from Ford parts. Ford part number 6L5Z 2455 BB. Cost is about $95.00 plus tax.
1. Remove driver’s seat. This allows you to lie on your back where the seat was to work under the dash more easily.
2. Unplug brake stop light switch by depressing the tab on the side of the plug. Refer to photo 1.
3. Remove pin clip which holds the brake light switch to the brake pedal by pushing pin out the top. I used the screw driver by putting the tip into the loop in the pin and pushing up. Pull the switch off the brake pin which will also remove the brake push rod and bushing. Refer to photo 2 and 3.
4. Unplug clutch pedal position switch by lifting the two ears outwards while pulling on plug. Refer to photo 1.
5. Un-snap clutch rod by pulling left it should snap right off. I used the screw driver to un-snap. Refer to photo 4.
6. Lift up the portion of the flooring covering 4 nuts holding the bottom of the brake pedal assembly. Item A on photo 1.
7. Remove 4 nuts from the bottom of the assembly using the 13mm deep well socket. Refer to photo 1 and photo 5.
8. Remove 2 bolts from the top of the assembly using the standard 13mm socket, universal and extensions. Not shown in photo 1, refer instead to photo 6.
9. Remove enough push pins, bolts and screws to gain access under the inner fender splash shield of the driver’s side wheel well. The clutch master cylinder is located under the brake booster.
10. Under the wheel well carefully twist the clutch master cylinder counter clockwise 45 degrees to unlock the master cylinder from the brake pedal assembly. Refer to item B on photo 1.
11. Inside pull out to un-snap the clutch push rod. The clutch master cylinder should now be free from the brake pedal assembly. Refer to photo 4.
12. Remove the brake pedal assembly by moving forward to clear the brake push rod. I had to have a helper to pull the brake booster forward just enough for the brake push rod to clear the assembly. We (helper and I) did not damage or bend the brake lines. Additional space for the booster push rod may be obtained by moving the clutch reservoir to one side.
13. Install new brake pedal assembly and reverse the removal procedure to complete the install.
The brake pedal assembly is made of cast aluminum.
Old one on the left, new on the right. Notice added material at wear points.
Showing wear areas:
You will have more travel in the clutch pedal and have a more firm brake pedal due to no movement in the pedals.
I would suggest you replace the brake light switch as it is a fairly inexpensive item. It wasn’t replaced on this truck.
Additional access may be gained by removing the bottom half of the dash under the steering wheel.
After removing the driver’s seat for this repair is still in a very tight and limited space area.
Let us know how you did if you perform this procedure. Let us know if you learned any short cuts to making this repair easier.