Discuss How To: 3" Doetsch Spindle Install - Page 11

NewShockerGuy · #**151** 10-27-2015, 11:18 PM

Damn that's really good to know!!

What is WNP stand for? I looked on google and found this on amazon...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...H6DP8X509Z6Y93

That says for 4x2... I am half tempted to do this now...

So with the fabtech people have problem with spindles and possibly snapping... which I definitely want to avoid at all costs... the WNP spindles are much better quality? Note this is a DD, no offroading what so ever.. high way miles, around town, and to the big box stores to pick shit up (mulch, etc.)

My wheels tires for my 01' XLT are 16" sport wheels with 245x75x16 tires....

Not really looking to go with bigger wheels tires as I just got these... would this lift look stupid with what I have?

Another question that I read is about the alignment... I believe I read somewhere that by adding spindle lifts you effectively max out some type of adjustment with the upper control arm alignment... is this true? I do have the camber bolt kit installed.

*Another question:

The kit above that I linked comes with the longer rear shackles.. they have two holes in them, which hole would one use on them AND I read that people need to use longer shocks for the rear.... What size shocks should one get for the rears using the large shackles? Plus, if the front are 4" and the rears are only 2" lift how does one not get that saggy looking rear end? I would like the height of the truck to be even front/back. Would that mean I need smaller spindles? 4" seems a lot?

Thanks,
-Nigel

Tyler46 · #**152** 10-28-2015, 01:15 AM

Yes, avoid Fabtech spindles at all cost. DO NOT buy them.
Here's a couple horror stories.

My buddy Robby had Fabtech spindles on his truck, here it is.

Until he simply turned a corner on some city street. Wasn't off roading, wasnt pushing his truck hard, just turned a corner at a reasonable speed.

This isn't a freak of nature either. These threads are from our very own forum.

Spindles

questions about fabtech snouts/spindles

fabtech snout issue

In fact, you can break just about any spindle if you try hard enough, I just did it over the weekend. I had the WNP spindles but I currently have Maxtrac's (they are the exact same spindle though) - I just bought them from two different places.

To avoid a snout snapping on you - buy Maxtrac or WNP spindles, you will be fine. Fabtechs spindles run $900 anyways.

They do not change your suspension geometry but you should have your alignment checked afterwards because you modified your suspension. Your alignment will still be correctable.

Buy shocks with a 1-4 inch lift. Bilstein part number 24-185509 works really well. You will not be able to install the shackles without longer shocks (at least on mine I couldn't)

The shackles have holes to adjust the lift level you desire - aka 1 inch, or 2 inch lift.

The truck sits 2 inches lower in the front at stock height so a 4 inch front lift and 2 inch rear lift will level your truck.

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I hope those answered all your questions. Look around the forum at some links about 2 WD lifts. Here's some good pointers.

2wd Spindle comparisons

Coil spring recommendations

Needing info opinions best advice on lifting a 2003 ford ranger edge 2wd supercab 3.0

Still trying to lift my truck..

Spindle lift WITH coil spring spacers!!!!
Al

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Also another member asked about how much to grind off of a coil spring model. I snapped this pic this morning while changing my spindles out.

I didn't grind off that little steering bump stop, the steering rack doesn't even allow it to go that far, I have full turning radius with what is shown below.

NewShockerGuy · #**153** 10-28-2015, 05:57 PM

Wow that hardly looks like you grinded anything away honestly... at that much then it would totally be worth it! I've seen some pictures where they grind and cut away A LOt...almost too much in a way!

I'm wondering why the WNP have 4" spindle lifts but the norm seems to be 3"... Do you think getting the kit for the 4" spindle lift and 2" shackles would be fine.. right now my truck is even.. all I did was replace the coil springs for new, and leaf springs with associated hardware about 5 months ago. I don't want the cali lean..lol

-Nigel

Tyler46 · #**154** 10-28-2015, 07:33 PM

I feel like I grinded quite a bit, just smooth out the lip around the edge and it will be fine. It takes longer to grind off all the material vs actually removing and installing the spindles and hardware.

TB-9862 · #**155** 10-28-2015, 08:14 PM

Wow I never realized how incredibly weak the other spindles were. I had Doetsche on my old 2WD truck and I beat on them offroad, slammed potholes at highway speeds (because NJ roads are the worst), and even had a minivan ram DIRECTLY INTO MY FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL, yet my spindles were never damaged. The lower ball joint snapped and twisted the A arm...but the snout and spindle were as solid as ever.

Buy Doetsche. Made in the USA and well worth the money, especially comparing my experience to theirs. I believe they were about $400 shipped for the pair.

To give you an idea of the impact...I was turning left and the van was in a "turn only lane", except he didn't turn and rammed into the front corner and side of my truck. The control arm mount, A arm, and ball joint all failed before the spindle.

2000rangermg · #**156** 10-28-2015, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TB-9862

Wow I never realized how incredibly weak the other spindles were. I had Doetsche on my truck and I beat on them offroad, slammed potholes at highway speeds (because NJ roads are the worst), and even had a minivan ram DIRECTLY INTO MY FRONT PASSENGER WHEEL, yet my spindles were never damaged. The lower ball joint snapped and twisted the A arm...but the snout and spindle were as solid as ever. Buy Doetsche. Made in the USA and well worth the money, especially comparing my experience to theirs. I believe they were about $400 shipped for the pair. To give you an idea of the impact...I was turning left and the van was in a "turn only lane", except he didn't turn and rammed into the front corner and side of my truck. The control arm mount, A arm, and ball joint all failed before the spindle.

I have the same spindles and never had a problem

Tyler46 · #**157** 10-28-2015, 08:40 PM

I've only heard bad things about the Fabtech spindles.
I'm trying to find out from a WNP representative where they get their spindles from, they also supply spindles to Maxtrac and slap a new sticker on it.

Mine are a different story, I basically sunk the unsinkable ship.

Some guys who have mild prerunners actually run those Doestch spindles on their trucks and they hold very well.

If I remember correctly, Morgan used to run the Doestch coils and spindles on his 04 Ranger.

2000rangermg · #**158** 10-28-2015, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyler46

I've only heard bad things about the Fabtech spindles. I'm trying to find out from a WNP representative where they get their spindles from, they also supply spindles to Maxtrac and slap a new sticker on it. Mine are a different story, I basically sunk the unsinkable ship. Some guys who have mild prerunners actually run those Doestch spindles on their trucks and they hold very well. If I remember correctly, Morgan used to run the Doestch coils and spindles on his 04 Ranger.

that's the plan with mine have a mild build and I wanted somthing that would hold up. And I think there was something wrong with my stock ones causing wheel bearing to blow after a couple hundred miles

NewShockerGuy · #**159** 10-28-2015, 10:24 PM

So this is the current shock that I have:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=519&jpid=22

It says it has a total travel of 8"

Would I be better of with the Ranchero type: such as this?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=519&jpid=59

The only problem that I am seeing on rock auto is the shocks that are extended in the rear for more travel specifically state for torsion bars and not coil springs? Does that matter since in the rear we don't have coil springs?

-Nigel

NewShockerGuy · #**160** 11-03-2015, 10:39 PM

Question on the front wheel ABS sensor....

Looking at replacements online it looks like the ABS cylinder slides into the spindle right? When removing I noticed mine are in there... Is there any downfall to lightly tapping the outside housing of the sensor to tap it out of the spindle?

They aren't budging and I'd like to not have to buy new ones but also don't want to break these.

OR does the internals of the sensor come out of the metal part that is in the spindle?

Thanks,
-Nigel

Tyler46 · #**161** 11-03-2015, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy

Is there any downfall to lightly tapping the outside housing of the sensor to tap it out of the spindle? They aren't budging and I'd like to not have to buy new ones but also don't want to break these. OR does the internals of the sensor come out of the metal part that is in the spindle?

You have to give it a little wiggle from the back side. Dirt and junk can get in there and make it a little difficult - especially if it's your factory spindle and the sensor has never been removed. Give it a few tries, it will come out. Remember there is an 8mm screw holding it in there. The screw is about 2 inches long.

To answer your question. You CAN tap it out with a hammer, but you have to be VERY GENTLE. Remember that part is expensive. It costs like $85 last I remember. I tapped mine out very very gently to get it to budge and it didn't damage it. Then take a wet towel and clean the dirt off so it slides in a little easier during re-installation. Tap at your own risk.

TB-9862 · #**162** 11-04-2015, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyler46

You have to give it a little wiggle from the back side. Dirt and junk can get in there and make it a little difficult - especially if it's your factory spindle and the sensor has never been removed. Give it a few tries, it will come out. Remember there is an 8mm screw holding it in there. The screw is about 2 inches long.

To answer your question. You CAN tap it out with a hammer, but you have to be VERY GENTLE. Remember that part is expensive. It costs like $85 last I remember. I tapped mine out very very gently to get it to budge and it didn't damage it. Then take a wet towel and clean the dirt off so it slides in a little easier during re-installation. Tap at your own risk.

^^^^ tapping can work but like he said, make sure the screw is out and go easy. A soft piece of material like a piece of wood between the hammer and the sensor housing helps. I was able to tap one out but the other ended up getting smashed because it wouldn't budge. I got a replacement sensor from Advance for around $50 if I remember correctly

NewShockerGuy · #**163** 11-06-2015, 02:04 PM

welp that was no problem getting the abs sensor out, i just had to lightly tap with a rubber mallet....

Fuck i feel like i've been grinding forever but the steering isn't improving...

This is where i am at so far..

I don't want to take off too much....

-Nigel

Tyler46 · #**164** 11-06-2015, 02:31 PM

Oh yeah, you need to grind off a lot more than that.

NewShockerGuy · #**165** 11-07-2015, 07:56 AM

went out last night so now picking it back up...

believe the driver side is good... but see pictures:

turning radius..seems a lot better than before so I think I am happy with this unless someone chimes in saying grind more...

time to do passenger side...

you are right that it took way more time to grind than install. My fear was taking off too much OR, making it look like a hack job so when it's time for inspection the person is like f no.... I think the way it is now it doesn't look modified unless someone really knew ranger lower control arms.

Re-doing bearings as well since everything apart might as well grease them. Moved the ABS sensor down as well.. only issue I don't like is the brake line at the moment.. I have to figure this out.
This looks more professional than just unclipping it and leaving it hanging in my opinion but again just want everything to look as stock as possible:

I also did NOT touch the bump stop at all... The caliper doesn't touch it nor does anything else touch it. The spindle stops on the lower control arm before it is touching the bump stop.

Also do the stock brake disc shields no longer work?? I see no way of attaching them to the new spindle....

-Nigel