This is a tutorial on how to flare your stock front fenders out to about 1.5" wider and .5" higher.
I got this idea from this thread on DR:
I do not take credit for the idea or process, I am just writing a much more indepth how to then what he gave. I believe I am the second to do this that I know of.
Set aside enough time to do it right, its not that hard and can be done under an hour if you are fast, but I say go slow. I am no responsible for any damages you do.
Wider, more aggressive look, yet subtle.
More tire clearence and travel room.
Free compared to expensive fiberglass fenders.
Alternative to oversized fiberglass fenders.
Wheel clearence without to much width for people that wheel on narrow trails.
Keeps metal fenders, opposed to fragile fiberglass.
Cautions and Cons:
Possible paint cracking
Possiblility of damaging fender beyond repair.
Slightly larger fender/door gap.
Fenderwell fitament is off.
What you will need:
Ratchets and sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 18mm, 7/32".
Drill and bits
Self tapping screws or nuts and bolts (small). Washers/ other spacers
Hammer, rubber malet
Prybar or jackhandle
Other common tools you may find useful
The balls to start bending your fender
*This was done on a 2002 3.0Ranger, other years may have different mounting areas, but the basic procedure should be the same. Also, keep in mind you may have different mounting issues for fender bolts, etc because everyone will get slilghtly different flares.*
1) (Optional) Remove front bumper. Give more working space. 4 - 18mm bolts, 2 on each frame horn. Easy to see.
Start by removing fender and splashguard screws, order isnt important
2) Remove front fender mount directly behind the sides of your bumper. 8mm
3) Remove both front fenderwell screws. They are near front body mount and directly underneath. 8mm
4) Remove screws in top of fender. Two on each side. 8mm except one on drivers side uses a 13mm nut.
5) Remove all screws around fender lip. 3 Each side. I used 7/32"
6) Remove Vacuum ball from Passenger fender. 2 - 10mm screws, set it out of the way. (May only apply to 3.0's of my gen)
7)If you have fenderwells like mine, remove the platic rivet to expose the rear lower fender mount screw. I clipped it and replaced it later with a nut and bolt. Then remove fender screw. 8mm PREPARE FOR DIRT
8) Remove fenderwell or push it to the back of the tire.
9) Place your prybar or jackhandle up into the fender for leverage.
STOP! Slow down, take your time on this part.
You are going to need to work your handle slowly front to back prying out on the fender. You will need apply force but try to work a little at a time and slow as possible. Check your work often to make sure it is smooth.
Tips to know:
You may or may not experience paint cracking. This will happen on the fender lip from my experience. Not that noticable on my truck.
The front half of the fender will flex the easiest and most, careful not to kink it.
There is a stuborn part of the fender to right in front of your ranger badge that is hard to flex. Try your best but dont force it or you may ruin other parts of your fender.
Always keep in mind the fender/ door gap. Dont worry if it seems you cant get it back clean, there is a procedure to come later. A tip for bending this area is use your knee (or whatever) to hold the back of the fender in towards the door while you pry out.
Flare it out until you are satisfied with both sides, you should be able to do 1.5".
This is after I flared it, notice the large fender and door gap which I will address.
10) To get a clean fender and door gap you need to use your tire to pry the fender back towards the door and hold it or have someone else hold it is useful too. Use self tapping screw, or drill a hole and use a nut and bolt further back on the mounting tab. This will pull the fender in tighter at the bottom.
I used these:
This is with the new screw in:
11)Now you can further tweak this area, which is optional. I feel it push the gap in cleaner and you get a better angle. pry out on the lower part of the fender and place a make shift spacer between the mounting tabs. Place washers inbetween the tabs over the original mounting hole. (I used two) Put the original bolt through them and tighten it down. 8mm
This is the new gap, it wil have a slight offset from the door too.
This looks worse than it is:
12) Check your work and do some fine tuning now that the rear is bolted down. If statisfied, then replace the front fender mounting screw. 8mm. Then check your work and try some fine tuning. Be gentle, it wont flex much bolted in. I Then used a rubber mallet to lessen the gap, i dont think I did much, but just dont dent your fender. I dont know much about working car panels lol.
13)If satisfied, Replace the fenderwell. You may need to enlarge the holes in the plastic fenderwell at the top if they do not line up. On the outer fender lip screws, only the rear lower one will likely mount up, so use it (7/32"). The middle top and front on will be pulled to far way so tuck it the best you can and use zipties to fasten it. (Other methods my work- I thought about trimming the fenderwell or getting plastic to bridge the gap. I also replaced the lower plastic rivet with a screw.
14) Remount the vaccum ball and bumper, plus anything else you may have moved or removed.
Here are the results:
Remember that you are working metal and that you will not be able to reverse this. Take your time and beware that you may run into different fitament issues since you may end up with different flares. I do not see the ability to go much past 1.5" of flare with out a large gap between door and fender. Attempt this at your own risk. Have fun, its not that hard.