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  #1  
Old 02-01-2011, 07:57 PM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

First thing's first: I would NOT try this if you are a novice at automotive or suspension work.

Tools used:

Basic set of Wrenches
Basic set of sockets/ratchets
Magnet
Impact gun/sockets
Vise
Mini Sledge(3 lb.)
Deadblow hammer
Utility Knife
Rags(lots)
Breaker bar
Screwdrivers
Jackstands (A MUST!!)
Car Jack
Lots of light
PB Blaster
Seal Puller
Air cut off wheel (small one)
Air chisel
Drain pan
Silicone

1.) Chock rear wheels(both sides) .Jack the truck up and put on jackstands. Take front wheels off. Remove front driveshaft.


2.) You will see your rotor and caliper. Using a screwdriver or punch, drive out the two pins holding your caliper on. Carefully pry caliper off and put out of the way (do not unbolt brake hose!). Using a bungee or something of sorts, hang caliper out of the way so that it doesnt kink or has any kind of stress put on the hose.


3.) Pull your hub assembly off if it hasnt come off with your wheel already(sometimes they seize to the wheel and you have to pound them off). You will see the innards of your hub.



4.) *Get a board or styrofoam or something to put your parts in order on if you've never torn one of these apart.* Using two flathead screwdrivers or snapring pliers (screwdrivers worked better for me) push the snapring off of the axle shaft. Set it aside. Next, pull the axle shaft spacer off and set it aside. Using your magnet, remove the small key locking the spindle nut in place. Set aside. Using a socket (its BIG, by the way, get it at the auto parts store) or a screwdriver and hammer, carefully lossen your spindle nut and remove it. Set it aside (be careful when you remove the spindle nut as the rotor might rock down). After removing the spindle nut, you will see a thin plastic washer behind the spindle nut. Set it aside.


5.) You should now be able to remove the rotor. The front bearing might fall out so be careful with it. Remove rotor and set aside (I know, this is getting old). Turn rotor over and inspect your inner bearing and seal. If bad, replace. My inner wheel bearing was seized to the spindle. Slightly heat it and hit it with the air chisel. Pops right off.



6.) To remove the spindle, unbolt the 5 nuts. With a deadblow hammer, lightly tap spindle to loosen and remove. I ended up using an air chisel and lots of PB Blaster on the side of the spindle because it was rusted fast. Remove and inspect bearing and seal on the inside of spindle.

__________________________________________________ ________

_______________Do this to both sides and then you can continue___________________________________________


7.) On the driver side, pull the axleshaft out slowly so that you dont mess up the seal. On the passenger side, cut the clamps holding the rubber boot on the axle shaft (under the vehicle). Pull axleshaft out and set aside.


*Now is the time that I put the FRAME of the truck on jackstands and let the axle hang loose. Some of the folks I've discussed this next step with would remove the driver side radius arm and coil. Others say to just simply "notch" your radius arm to remove the alignment bolt on the 3rd member. I chose to notch the radius arm. This is where your air cut off wheel comes in handy as a regular grinder/cutoff wheel wont fit.*


I like to clean up parts as I go


8.) Unbolt the passenger side axle pivot bolt and remove. Push up as FAR as it will go (about 1.5 inches).


9. Look under the vehicle on the driver side. You will see by the radius arm that there is a bolt (approx. 4.5" in length). Take the nut off. Notch the radius arm JUST ENOUGH for the bolt to slide past it. Take your air chisel and remove the bolt.


10.) Unbolt the bolts that hold the 3rd member to the axle(there's ten of them.) Drain the gear oil

11.) Now, this is a PAIN in the ass.... Remove the 3rd member. You will have to wrestle with it for awhile before it comes out. Be careful when it does because it is HEAVY.

12.)Scrape off old gasket material from front of differential and 3rd member. Install new silicone generously. Let set up for about 5 minutes.

13.) Installation is the reversal of removal. Replace anything that needs replaced. DONT FORGET GEAR OIL!!!




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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

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  #2  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:01 PM
DiabloBlanco DiabloBlanco is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

this shit blew my mind.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:04 PM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloBlanco View Post
this shit blew my mind.
What blew your mind?
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

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Old 02-01-2011, 08:05 PM
DiabloBlanco DiabloBlanco is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

The mechanics of this process, its a good thing trust me on this haha good post bro!
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Mods to come: Camburg entry 6.0 system. FiberwerkX Fenders and bedsides. Tube bumper.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:07 PM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

It was a PAIN in the ASS but....I'll have 4x4 when I find a driveshaft and get new lockouts

Bought the truck for $400 and fixed it up over time and paychecks.
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

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  #6  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:29 PM
Fordzilla80 Fordzilla80 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

Kyle, TTB is just about the most fun to work on(sarcastically), and probably the most complicated front suspension setup Ford ever came up with.

Awesome write up Brinker. For those who care, all of this also relates to the 1980-1996 F150 and Bronco TTB and 1980-1985 F250 TTB as they all use the same mechanics. Pain in the assery.
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:32 PM
DiabloBlanco DiabloBlanco is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

I figured that much. It looks ridiculously harsh!
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Mods to come: Camburg entry 6.0 system. FiberwerkX Fenders and bedsides. Tube bumper.
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2011, 08:40 PM
Fordzilla80 Fordzilla80 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

I have a 95 D44 sitting in the shop awaiting a full rebuild. It needs new axles, new seals, new front ring and pinion, new bearings, new spindles, new hubs, new lockouts, new bushings, etx. That's gonna be a fun adventure.lol.

Brinker, how did you manage to blow the hole in the case?
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2011, 06:31 AM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

LOOONG story...lol

bought the truck for $400. Needed paint, rebuild the engine (cracked heads/gaskets), needed interior, and front axle was trashed. I figure sumdumshit PO jumped the fucker and hit a rock with the driveshaft which in turn pushed the pinion up through the case...that is the ONLY way I can figure how somone cracked the case like it was.
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RIP JASON
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:16 AM
pooleo pooleo is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

Im doing this, this weekend, along with a clutch. All 3 u-joints are bad.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2011, 07:32 AM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

good luck dude! Simple enough really. Just make sure after you pull the passenger axle shaft out of the 3rd member, put the center pin back in or you have a chance of having your spider gears fall out. I know from experience...NOT fun
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

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  #12  
Old 02-02-2011, 07:50 AM
blkranger231 blkranger231 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

Very nice great job man and on a side note wow I have never seen a dif blown out like that before your putting that on the garage wall right
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2011, 09:33 AM
brinker88 brinker88 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

lol hell yea
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1993 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab | stepside | 4x4 | 4.0L | Lifted | 35" BFG KM2s | MT Classic IIs | Dana 35/Disc 8.8 with 4.56's | Duals | Etc

RIP JASON
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2011, 07:37 PM
Fordzilla80 Fordzilla80 is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

Damn dude, that's crazy. It's amazing what people do to vehicles. Here's a pic of the driver's side spindle from my D44. Those marks look like those of a small chisel to me. I asked my buddy how the hell he managed this. He told me he was drunk and can't remember what he did. Needless to say the spindle is trashed now.

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  #15  
Old 02-03-2011, 07:38 PM
DiabloBlanco DiabloBlanco is offline
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Default re: How To: Replace 3rd member in TTB D35

what the hell? haha i dont advise drinking heavily and working on any motorized vehicle.

unless you are a professional
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Mods to come: Camburg entry 6.0 system. FiberwerkX Fenders and bedsides. Tube bumper.
R.I.P. Jeff Ashton. 1992-2011
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