Written By: dixie_boysles

Discussion Thread: How To: Change Oil in 4.0 SOHC


In this How-To, I will be showing you how to change your oil in your 4.0 engine.

Discalimer: Neither I nor FordRangerForum.com takes any responsibility in any damage or actions resulting from this how-to. When performing this how-to, you are doing so at your own risk.

Tools Needed:

• 5 quarts of 5w-30 MOTORCRAFT oil
• FL-820S MOTORCRAFT Oil Filter
• oil tray
• funnel
• 13mm wrench/socket
• oil filter strap wrench (optional)
• Oil Rag

Instructions:

First, take the truck for a spin. When you get bacl let the motor cool cool for a bit. This helps thin the oil as oil thins when it is warm and therefore drains better/faster. Then find a good place to work on your truck, preferably a good flat concrete surface. Set Parking brake. For you 2WD guys, you may need to jack your truck in the front a little but may not be needed, I am 4x4 with 31s so I dont have to.



Open Hood and put up the hood support







Place Oil Tray under the bottom of the engine right under the drain plug





Remove Oil Fill Cap on the engine





Now you are ready to drain oil. First you must take the 13mm socket/wrench and remove the drain plug. Be careful and make sure the engine is not hot but warm instead. Loosen the drain plug, then you may finish it with your fingers. just try not to get oil everywhere. Also inspect the drain plug for any debris (like loos threads). Check to make sure the seal is good on it and that it is not stuck to the oil header.







Once you have the drain plug out make sure the oil is flowing into the oil tray and then take your rag and clean up the drain plug a little









Once oil had drained completely, put the drain plug back in and tighten. Just dont tighten really tight. a nice snug fit is sufficient. Then clean the area up with your rag



Now its time to remove the old filter. Your filter is located on the passengerside. If you look up from the drain plug you will see it



Now you must move the oil tray under the filter. This part can get messy. Loosen the filter using your hands or your oil filter strap wrench. just loosen a little until oil starts to come out. Let it drain for a minute. Then remove the filter. Make sure you hold it in the vertical position until you get it in your oil tray.



Take your rag and clean the area up where the filter goes



Now prepare your new filter



just stick your fingertip in the oil tray and dap some used motor oil on the new oil filter seal and rub it around the rim







Put the filter back on. It is usually stubborn to get threaded back but it goes on. tighten but not too tight. a snug fit is sufficient. you want to be able to get it back off.





Now you are ready to Fill with oil! Take your funnel and place it in the Oil Fill hole



Then put all 5 quarts in and replace cap



Clean up any messes that you made and dispose of your motor oil properly. I put mine in a 5 gallon bucket and then take to Advance Auto when full. You can use the new filter box to put your old filter in



If you have an Ultra-Gauge, zero the oil distance


(Thanks edgerider for the pic)

CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have now changed the oil in your 4.0 SOHC!! Now its time to go rolling in your 4.0

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Nice, time to edit mine because I took pics of putting oil on the filter before I put it on so I forgot that step.

I love the little bump under the drain plug that makes the last small drips come out without flying everywhere. someone gets an A in product design haha.

nice thorough write up scott!

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2002 Ranger FX4
4.0L SOHC, 5R55E Auto, 4.10 8.8 Torsen, 31x10.5/15 BFG ATs

Good job Scotty!! Nice Write up!

Great write up!

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2008 Ford Ranger Sport 4x4 4.0L
-5 speed, undercoating, tinted windows, keyless entry, 3.73 gears
-Pioneer AVIC-F700BT GPS w/10" Pioneer woofer
-3 inch Performance Accessories Body Lift
-33x12.5 r 15 BFG M/T KM2's

U missed the part about priming the filter.

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SOLD:'05 2wd Ranger xl with the 3.0
MODS-Alpine head unit, throttle cable mod, Black Rock wheels, FX4 lvl II axle swap, pooleo's camo painted bezel and mustang dome, painted/aftermarket headlights/tails fold-a-cover and over 100 hp in stickers

'86 AMC Eagle and '01 Grand Prix GTP

I dont know what you mean by priming the filter. like putting some oil in it before you put it on. never have done that and have never had any problems

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awesome write up man but i do have to say if you dont know how to change ur oil then u should prob turn ur man card in for a thong haha but once again by far the best write up ive seen. awesome dixie_boysles

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and no need to prime the filter/ system. its only 5 quarts. its not like a desiel with 15quarts of oil. but would add start vehicle and wait for oil pressure to build and then shut off and check level to assure proper level of oil

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01 RANGER EDGE 4X4 4.0 AUTO
3IN PA BL
33x12.50 15 FIRESTONE DESTINATION A/T
BLINKER MOD
3K FOG LIGHTS
6K 55W HEADLIGHTS
muffler removed

yeah its a sorta important step so you dont have dry start-up

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SOLD:'05 2wd Ranger xl with the 3.0
MODS-Alpine head unit, throttle cable mod, Black Rock wheels, FX4 lvl II axle swap, pooleo's camo painted bezel and mustang dome, painted/aftermarket headlights/tails fold-a-cover and over 100 hp in stickers

'86 AMC Eagle and '01 Grand Prix GTP

Cool write up. Someone should do one for a three point 0.

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uhh... lol i just did

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-s...oil-3-0-a.html

haha ok i didnt see that. thanks. now i have something to do this weekend.

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There is no need to prime the filter. Your not gonna destroy the engine by not doing it.

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What? Duh!!!I'm afraid I'll mess something up down there!?

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2011 mustang/66 mustang//not bad ass, but bad enough.

i changed my oil today and it said i was still 3/4qt low even after 5 qts, and i started it up, left it sit a couple mins and checked it again,

i added another 3/4 qt and it seems to be a little over full,

im baffled, im i gonna be ok?

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Dave K
2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 Sport 4.0L "Dixie"
Rancho Suspension/Auto/3.73's/Pinstriped/Flowmaster SS Exhaust.

FUTURE: 3' Body Lift/32's/Windshield Visor/Brush Guard.