Great write up but so many of the images are missing now. Anyone have the images saved? Thanks

All images are showing up for me. They're saved locally, so as long the site itself can load, those images should pop up. Are there any you can confirm are missing? (Note: not every step has an image to go along with it)

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

Seems to load fine for me as well.

When I installed my first set of rotors the races were already in place and I didn't bother punching them out... this time I think I am going to use the races that came with the bearings... I'm just dreading punching them out..

I also heard that putting the races in the freezer will help in putting them in the new one/rotor?

Thanks,
-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

There seems to be a lot of debate around races and bearings. Honestly, I don't think it matters if the bearing hasn't been used yet. It happily warps the race to its liking after it's installed, but before that, it's fresh and not broken-in yet. As long as the right rotor was purchased, the races should be the same for any bearing added in. Is it really worth punching out races that are likely already seated correctly and ready to go when the supposed benefits are purely hypothetical?

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

Well I punched out both races on my rotors... And ended up ordering the race bearing tool to hammer them back in.

I do have a question on the inner larger race... When I pounded them out they weren't completely seated with the inside of the lip if that makes sense... Like I could get a punch between the race and the little space to hammer them out. When I see online people are saying make sure the race is flush or up against the inner lip... so does that mean my races in the rotors weren't installed correctly from the factory?

I kept hearing a roaring noise both turning left and right but would go away when going straight. I didn't think they were bearings since i replaced them last year on both wheels, and when I looked at them now they looked fine. No burned or chipped metal... But was wondering since it's not really talked about there as far as how far the races should be hammered in?

Thanks,
-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

I bought the tool to put the new races in. I was trying to do it with a punch and it just wasn't working at all... The tool took me 10 seconds to pound it in and it's done.

Well worth it if you can't rent it. The fact that it took almost zero effort to put in new races is awesome to me!

Hopefully tonight I will figure out if that front end growl was the wheel bearings...

-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

STL or anyone else:

This implies that one would need two different torque wrenches. One for foot pounds and the other for inch pounds.
My torque wrench starts at 20 foot pounds.

What option to use other than buying an inch pound torque wrench?

Nvm. I missed this statement.
You can do it without a torque wrench just be sure it is not super tight and it has some play.

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2010 Silver Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L 2WD StyleSide Reg Cab Auto, Open 7.5" - 4.10 diff.
TruxEdo tonneua cover, rubber bed mat, Ranger all weather floor mats.

Quick question on this. I've followed this guide and replaced my bearings and races and seals. About to start driving her, again.

Before I do, I was wondering if it's possible to over press the races? If so, how do I know and what are the consequences?

Thanks in advance!

Nope. Just make sure they're seated all the way around the race. Press (or hammer) them in as far as they'll go. They'll stop at exactly the right spot, as long as the rotor was machined correctly. It's impossible to drive them too deep, cuz physics.

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1997 4x4 Mazda B4000 SE, Ext.Cab

Thanks.

When I first put my hub back on, my nut would not go past the cotter hole, it would sit directly on top of it. So, I have to rip everything back out, remove the seal, and drive them deeper. I was nervous about over driving them. Then, it would slide on enough to allow me to put the pin in, but I was nervous that I could've over pressed them. I'm a worrier ... but my cheapness of not paying hundreds for this outweighs my worries. :P

When I put the nut back on, I just did it hand tight. I don't have a torque wrench, and when I removed it, I just pulled it off with 2 fingers. So, I assumed that was correct. haha

This how-to was a life saver for me.

You're supposed to torque it to 20 FOOT-lbs WHILE rotating the wheel, just to fully seat the new bearings. Then back off a turn, and do it again. Yes, twice. Now there's no slop inside the bearings, themselves. Lastly, Ford says finish it with 20 INCH-lbs, but that's really so small that it's essentially finger-tight, so I prefer to hand tighten the nut to be snug, not tight, with very, very little play. The idea is you want the wheel to spin freely, but without any slop, at all. Much like how you did your bicycle wheel, long ago. :-)

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1997 4x4 Mazda B4000 SE, Ext.Cab

Figured I would ask since this was brought up by another friend.

I've done this procedure twice now on my truck. Going to do it again but was wondering can you put TOO much grease opening after you do the bearings. IE: You pack the bearings full of grease. Then I will stick my finger in the tub and put more grease INSIDE the hole where you put the bearing, put the bearing in, put more grease with my finger, put the washer/nut. Torque it, then back off,, then 20in/lbs to set the nut and put the cotter pin back in. Then I stick my finger in the grease again and put more grease on the top, almost like if one was packing the dust cap full of grease. Is this needed/too much...etc?

Figured having more grease is better than having no grease but at the same time then I started wondering how that might affect torque if you have the entire thing full of grease vs just the bearing?

thanks,
-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

^^^^????

Will be doing soon myself, any advice?

????